Reykjavík Grapevine - 25.07.2003, Síða 16

- the reykjavík grapevine -16 july 25th - august 7th, 2003 - the reykjavík grapevine - 17july 25th - august 7th, 2003
1. Te og Kaffi
Laugavegur 27
Because of it’s small entrance, it easy to miss while walking by.
Being not only a café, but also a gift shop, it is well worth the
visit. It’s Reykjavik’s answer to Starbucks, with a large selection
of coffees, teas and everything you need to consume your
coffee at home. The café itself may not be the best place to sit
down in, but does great takeaway.
2. Ráðhúskaffi
City Hall
With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside
Reykjavíks City Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the
view. Free internet access for costumers and around the corner
inside the City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 model of Iceland.
3. Grái Kötturinn
Hverfsgata 16a
Grái Köttiurinn is across the street from Iceland’s National
Theater and very small and very popular in the early hours of the
day. A good place to start a day the British way, with eggs and
bacon and other traditional breakfasts on the menu. The lunch
menu is also inviting.
4. Kaffitár
Bankastræti 8
The colors of the Rainbow meet you when you enter this café on
Bankastræti, with a different color on every wall. It’s small but has
good coffee and tasty side dishes.
It’s one of these places that make you want to sit down and watch
daily life go by on one of downtown´s busiest streets, or simply
just to read the newspaper.
5. Súfistinn
Laugavegur 18
The only no smoking café in the centre and always crowded.
Being inside Mál & Menning bookstore on Laugavegurinn is it’s
biggest advantage. You are allowed to pick up books, magazines
and newspapers from the bookstore, and read them there over a
cup of coffee and/or a snack.
6. Mokka
Skólavörðustígur 3a
An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in
Reykjavik and the first one to make coffee with an espresso
machine. Mokka celebrated its 45th birthday on May 24. The
walls are covered with art for sale and seats usually filled by
loyal customers.
7. Kaffivagninn
Grandagarður 10
By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers
and old badasses gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you
want to try out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes or bread
covered with smoked lamb this is the right place although you
might feel slightly apprehensive about the tough old guys, don’t
worry! They’re not going to be the last thing you see in this life.
8. Café Paris
Austurstræti 14
Situated in the heart of the city with view over Austurvöllur, its
spacious, popular and usually full. Offers you light meals and
the opportunity to sit outside when the weather is nice. Middle
aged Icelanders on every other table, and tourists in between,
the usual crowd, Café Paris is international like the city it’s
named after.
9. Tíu Dropar
Laugavegur 27
With the exception of Mokka café, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café
in downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it,
the decor, the tables and the chairs, along with the service
makes you feel very much at home, it’s almost like your sitting
down for a cup of coffee in your grandma’s kitchen. The menu
is limited, but has the advantage of constant changes, with new
items every day.
10. Café Victor
Hafnarstræti 1-3
Spelt with a c rather than with the more traditional k in order to
be more cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be working, as the
bar has become something of a hangout for foreigners. The
Viking ship sitting on top of the house might also add to the
appeal. The crowd is very mixed, both in origin and age, and
so is the music.
11. Hverfisbar
Hverfisgata 20
Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what
the fuss was about, or whether the queue was the best part.
When it’s four o clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still going
strong, this might be the place you’ll wind up, by which time
you probably won’t care that the same song seems to come
on every half hour.
12. Grand Rokk
Smiðjustígur 6
A place true to Rock ‘n Roll, leather, long hair and bands that don’t
do covers. Well known and less known Icelandic bands play for
free (free drinks for band members, need I say more?) usually no
less than three bands a night, four nights a week. Grab a beer
and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for chess players,
challenging each other and anyone that might wander in here for
a game. Some of them seem to have finally decided to abandon
participation in the outside world in favour of the afternoon
drinking and chess.

13. Sólon
Bankastræti 7a
One size fits all is what this place is going for, and it’s usually a
very crowded pick up place. Somewhat expensive, and whether
it´s because of this, an attempt at masculinity or just general
despair, people have been known to jump from the second floor
balcony. This is not recommended, as a broken leg is most often
the result, and the girls remain duly unimpressed.
14. Kráin
Laugavegi 73
An atmospheric place, which has its regulars and and is sadly
one of few places that has Kronenburg on tap. A rather quiet
place to chat on the weekdays, and troubadour plays there every
weekend. It also has occasional jazz piano concerts.
15. Cafe 22
Laugavegur 22
Originally a gay hang out now it’s a place where you can pass
through all the stages without leaving the building, from chatting
on the first floor, dancing on the second, to passing out on the
third, where the atmosphere is more of an intimate late night
one. Still maintains the feeling of being a place for people who
don´t necessarily fit in anywhere else, which makes it a great
place to hang out.
16. Kaffibarinn
Bergstaðarstræti 1
Kaffibarinn is cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik
prides itself on having more artists per capita than any other
capital in the world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to
prove the point, with musicians, actors and writers, and a whole
lot of wannabes. You can’t say you’ve partied in Reykjavik unless
you’ve partied here, although civilians might have a hard time
getting in. Blur´s Damon Albnarn owns a piece of this one wisely
figuring it was cheaper than paying for drinks.
17. Sirkus
Klapparstígur 30
Weird inside out and the tropical forest painted on the outside
gives you a hint of what’s to come. It’s Reykjavik’s underground
wildlife in a small cage, it’s kinda like someone threw a party at
home, and things got a bit out of hand... months ago. It’s as
tiny as an apartment for two and the second floor looks just like
someone’s´ living room. Cramped, but the bathroom queue is a
good place to meet people.

18. Nelly’s
Þingholtsstræti 2
Has just changed management, so what will happen now is
anyone´s guess. All we can do is hope they maintain their policy
of being the cheapest bar in Reykjavík.
19. Little Central
Pósthússtræti 17
Little Central is both small, central and cosy. It’s situated in
a cellar near Austurvöllur, just behind the church. The quiet
atmosphere is lifted up in weekends with live jazz music, a rare
sight in downtown Reykjavik. Recommended for those who want
to have a chilled night out and take it easy.
20. Vegamót
Vegamótastígur 4
Wants to be the in-spot to be seen, and is just that. Dress up,
flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle
in there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come
out on top.
21. Kaffibrennslan
Pósthússtræti 9
On the sober side of town, but ironically with the largest selection
of beers in Reykjavik, good coffee and even better service, (and
imagine, we’re not getting paid for saying this). One of these
cafés/bars that should fit all, the editors admit they drink coffee
here more often than they should.
22. Celtic Cross
Hverfisgata 26
Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the title
of Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except for the
coffin in the back, it’s very much alive. Live music almost every
night and middle aged philosophers asking themselves questions
about life during the day, over a pint of beer or a cup of coffee.
23. Prikið
Bankastræti 12
Always a classic, no matter if it’s early on a Monday morning
or very late on a Satuday night, Prikið makes your day (or night
if that’s your thing). Nice coffee, better music and remember
to dance, if you can manage to take advantage of the very
limited space
24. Dubliners
Hafnarstræti 4
The city’s main Irish pub, which, as in many cities, means that
it´s a hangout for all sorts of foreigners. At the weekends
there’s also a large influx of locals, often of the slightly older
variety. If you like the darker stuff on tap, this is probably the
best place to go.
25. Coffee Shop 11
Laugavegur 11
Owned by the same people as 22, and sort of its little brother.
Usually has decent rock music and a pretty good jukebox if you’re
still not happy. Foosball on the upper floor, and if you ask Gústi
the bartender nicely, he might perform the house trick for you,
which is putting a match into his mouth and pulling it out of his
nose, and if you meet him on a good day, he might even put a pen
into one nostril and take it out the other as an encore. Watch out
for slam poetry nights first Thursday of every month.
26. Kaffi Kúltur
Hverfisgötu 18
For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about
town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day
its something of a hangout for the actors from the National
Theatre, just across the street, but in the evening it is populated
by both new and older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food
and frequent concerts. Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone
can join in, but this is not a place to learn.
27. Spotlight
Hafnarstræti 17
With perhaps the exception of the Vatican, every self respecting
city has at least one gay club, and this is Reykjaviks.
Gay, bi or simply curious, are supported by a crowd that’s there
to dance rather than to make moves (If you know where I’m
going). Cool happening club and likely to be entertaining unless
you’re particularly prudish.
Crowd: 20+
28. Gaukur á Stöng
Tryggvagata 22
Iceland’s oldest club is turning 20 this fall. During the day it’s
a pool pub and on weekday evenings there are often live rock
clubs
GRAPEVINE IN YOUR POCKET
THIS PULLOUT HAS ALL THE INFORMATION ONE MIGHT NEED,
SO FOR A SAFER JOURNEY, PULL IT OUT AND PUT IT IN YOUR POCKET
L E AV I N G T H E C I T Y
bar and bistro
(most are cafés too)
café
If you’re not going to hitchhike your way out of
town and you haven’t got a bike, there are three
ways to do it.
Rent a car
A comfortable way to if you can afford it, renting a
car for 24 hours can cost anywhere from 6.900kr
(89$/83EU) with insurance and unlimited mileage.
You can rent anything from a four wheeled aluminum
tin can (usually a VW Polo) to a huge Motor home/
VR, jeeps are also available. Car rentals are situated
in most of Iceland’s larger towns, e.g. Reykjavik,
Akureyri, Ísafjörður, Selfoss and Egilsstaðir. You
must be at least 20 years old, and you must have
been licensed to drive for at least one year at the
time of the rental. The rental company usually
require payment by credit card..
Taking the Bus
Reykjavik’s main bus terminal is BSI (www.bsi.is). It
opens at 7:30 (9:00 in weekends) and closes at
19:00. BSI’s bus routes go all around Iceland, at a
rather reasonable price.
The buses are accurate and usually on time, a
big advantage, but the time between trips from
one place can sometimes vary from a few hours
to a couple of day’s, a disadvantage for the less
patient.
You can also check out BSI’s guided tours either at
their website (www.dice.is), or simply contact the
bus terminal.
Get airborne
There are two airlines that handle Iceland’s
domestic flights, Flugfélag Íslands (Air Iceland) and
the smaller islandsflug We recommend you visit
their websites for more info on their fairs and so on.
Both airlines are situated on Reykjavik airport in the
center of Reykjavik. Flying to Akureyri, usually costs
around 7.500kr (100$/90EU.) and flights to all
destinations are frequent, often up to three times a
day, but If you think you’re going to be enjoying the
view on your way, you will be disappointed.
www.flugfelag.is
www.islandsflug.is
-and of course you can always walk.
The Volcano show:
Red Rock Cinema
Hellusund 6a
101 Reykjavík
p: 845-9548
It is said that a picture tells more than a thousand
words. If such is the case, a video would tell a
few thousand more. Most of the sights of Iceland,
such as Gullfoss and even Geysir, can be explored
at little or no danger to life and limb, although the
wallet might wind up aching. Volcanic eruptions
can be an exception to this rule, besides being
often inconveniently timed and located for the
traveller, although you might get lucky, what with
more than 10 eruptions in the past 50 years. But
if you´re not, then The Volcano Show might be
the second best option, quite apart from being
very close to the centre of Reykjavík. It is a fi lm
program consisting of footage from all eruptions in
Iceland since the Mt. Hekla eruptions in 1947-48,
footage shot under dangerous circumstances by
the presenter of the Volcano show, Villi Knutsen,
and his late father. The show is divided into two
parts, the fi rst part covers all eruptions in Iceland
in the past 50 years, while the second part is a
special on the eruptions in the Westman islands
and the birth of Surtsey, an island south of the
Westman islands that didn’t exist before 1963.
Open every day, all day with fi rst show at 11
o’clock. The duration of each part is one hour.
Admission: 750 ISK for one hour program, 950
ISK for 2 hour program and 250 ISK for the
Historical Film Show
S P O T T H I S
C I T Y G U I D E