Reykjavík Grapevine - 13.06.2003, Qupperneq 14

the reykjavik grapevine14 may 15 - may 29, 2003 the reykjavik grapevine 15may 15 - may 29, 2003
1. Te og Kaffi
Laugarvegur 27
Because of it’s small entrance, it easy to miss while walking by.
Being not only a café, but also a gift shop, it is well worth the
visit. It’s Reykjavik’s answer to Starbucks, with a large selection
of coffees, teas and everything you need to consume your
coffee at home. The café itself may not be the best place to sit
down in, but does great takeaway.
2. Ráðhúskaffi
City Hall
With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside
Reykjavíks City Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the
view. Free internet access for costumers and around the corner
inside the City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 model of Iceland.
3. Grái Kötturinn
Hverfsgata 16a
Grái Köttiurinn is across the street from Iceland’s National
Theater and very small and very popular in the early hours of the
day. A good place to start a day the British way, with eggs and
bacon and other traditional breakfasts on the menu. The lunch
menu is also inviting.
4. Kaffitár
Bankastræti 8
The colors of the Rainbow meet you when you enter this café
on Bankastræti, new color on every wall. It’s small but has good
coffee and tasty side dishes.
It’s one of these places that make you want to sit down and watch
daily life go by on one of downtowns busiest streets, or simply
just to read the newspaper.
5. Súfistinn
Laguavegur 18
The only no smoking café in the centre and always crowded.
Being inside Mál & Menning bookstore on Laugarvegurinn is it’s
biggest advantage. You are allowed to pick up books, magazines
and newspapers from the bookstore, and read them there over a
cup of coffee and/or a snack.
6. Mokka
Skólavörðustígur 3a
An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in
Reykjavik and the first one to make coffee with an espresso
machine. Mokka celebrated its 45th birthday on May 24. The
walls are covered with art for sale and seats usually filled by
loyal customers.
7. Kaffivagninn
Grandagarður 10
By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers
and old badasses gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you
want to try out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes or bread
covered with smoked lamb this is the right place although you
might feel slightly apprehensive about the tough old guys, don’t
worry! They’re not going to be the last thing you see in this life.
8. Café Paris
Austurstræti 14
Situated in the heart of the city with view over Austurvöllur, its
spacious, popular and usually full. Offers you light meals and
the opportunity to sit outside when the weather is nice. Middle
aged Icelanders on every other table, and tourists in between,
the usual crowd, Café Paris is international like the city it’s
named after.
9. Tíu Dropar
Laugavegur 27
With the exception of Mokka café, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café
in downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it,
the decor, the tables and the chairs, along with the service
makes you feel very much at home, it’s almost like your sitting
down for a cup of coffee in your grandma’s kitchen. The menu
is limited, but has the advantage of constant changes, with new
items every day.
10. Dubliners
Hafnarstræti 4
The city’s main Irish pub, which, as in many cities, means that
it´s a hangout for all sorts of foreigners. At the weekends
there’s also a large influx of locals, often of the slightly older
variety. If you like the darker stuff on tap, this is probably the
best place to go.
11. Hverfisbar
Hverfisgata 20
Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what
the fuss was about, or whether the queue was the best part.
When it’s four o clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still
going strong, this might be the place you’ll wind up, by which
time you probably won’t care that the same song seems to
come on every half hour.
12. Grand Rokk
Smiðjustígur 6
A place true to Rock ‘n Roll, leather, long hair and bands that
don’t do covers. Well known and less known Icelandic bands
play for free (free drinks for band members, need I say more?)
usually no less than three bands a night, four nights a week.
Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for
chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might
wander in here for a game. Some of them seem to have finally
decided to abandon participation in the outside world in favour
of the afternoon drinking and chess.

13. Sólon
Bankastræti 7a
One size fits all is what this place is going for, and it’s usually a
very crowded pick up place. Somewhat expensive, and whether
it´s because of this, an attempt at masculinity or just general
despair, people have been known to jump from the second floor
balcony. This is not recommended, as a broken leg is most
often the result, and the girls remain duly unimpressed.
14. Astro
Austurstræti 22
Our sources tell us that Ken and Barbie hooked up here few
years ago and if you look closely you’ll see them dancing and
drinking here from time to time. Guys wearing ties, girls in
skirts, dyed hair and solarium tans, all in perfect harmony with
the Euro-disco music. Go get some!
15. Cafe 22
Laugavegur 22
The price of a beer (500 kr) to get in after midnight, so it´s a
gamble whether you get your money´s worth. Originally a gay
hang out now it’s a place where you can pass through all the
stages without leaving the building, from chatting on the first
floor, dancing on the second, to passing out on the third, where
the atmosphere is more of an intimate late night one.
16. Kaffibarinn
Bergstaðarstræti 1
Kaffibarinn is cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik
prides itself on having more artists per capita than any other
capital in the world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to
prove the point, with musicians, actors and writers, and a whole
lot of wannabes. You can’t say you’ve partied in Reykjavik unless
you’ve partied here, although civilians might have a hard time
getting in. Blurs Damon Albnarn owns apiece of this one wisely
figuring it was cheaper than paying for drinks.
17. Sirkus
Klapparstígur 30
Weird inside out and the tropical forest painted on the outside
gives you a hint of what’s to come. It’s Reykjavik’s underground
wildlife in a small cage, it’s kinda like someone threw a party
at home, and things got a bit out of hand... months ago. It’s as
tiny as an apartment for two and the second floor looks just like
someone’s´ living room. Cramped, but the bathroom queue is a
good place to meet people.

18. Nelly’s
Þingholtsstræti 2
Not the most aesthetically pleasing bar in Reykjavik, dark and
dirty, but the beer is cheap by Reykjavik standards, which
makes it a worthwhile hangout. The crowd is a bit like the beer,
and the beer is a bit like the interior.
19. Glaumbar
Tryggvagata 20
This American looking bar often feels like the Beverly Hillbillies
have come to downtown Reykjavík got drunk and ended up here.
A classic pick up joint for those who’ve tried everything else and
are running out of options.
20. Vegamót
Vegamótastígur 4
Wants to be the in-spot to be seen, and is just that. Dress up,
flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle
in there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come
out on top.
21. Kaffibrennslan
Pósthússtræti 9
On the sober side of town, but ironically with the largest
selection of beers in Reykjavik, good coffee and even better
service, (and imagine, we’re not getting paid for saying this).
One of these cafés/bars that should fit all, the editors admit
they drink coffee here more often than they should.
22. Celtic Cross
Hverfisgata 26
Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the
title of Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except
for the coffin in the back, it’s very alive. Live music almost
every night and middle aged philosophers asking themselves
questions about life during the day, over a pint of beer or a
cup of coffee.
23. Prikið
Bankastræti 12
Always a classic, no matter if it’s early on a Monday morning
or very late on a Satuday night, Prikið makes your day (or night
if that’s your thing). Nice coffee, better music and remember
to dance, if you can manage to take advantage of the very
limited space

GRAPEVINE IN YOUR POCKET
THIS PULLOUT HAS ALL THE INFORMATION ONE MIGHT NEED,
SO FOR A SAFER JOURNEY, PULL IT OUT AND PUT IT IN YOUR POCKET
L E AV I N G T H E C I T Y
bar and bistro
(most are cafés too)
café
If you’re not going to hitchhike your way out of
town and you haven’t got a bike, there are three
ways to do it.
Rent a car
A comfortable way to if you can afford it, renting
a car for 24 hours can cost anywhere from
6.900kr (89$/83EU) with insurance and unlimited
mileage. You can rent anything from a four
wheeled aluminum tin can (usually a VW Polo) to
a huge Motor home/VR, jeeps are also available.
Car rentals are situated in most of Iceland’s larger
towns, e.g. Reykjavik, Akureyri, Ísafjörður, Selfoss
and Egilsstaðir. You must be at least 20 years old,
and you must have been licensed to drive for at
least one year at the time of the rental. The rental
company usually require payment by credit card..
Taking the Bus
Reykjavik’s main bus terminal is BSI (www.bsi.is).
It opens at 7:30 (9:00 in weekends) and closes at
19:00. BSI’s bus routes go all around Iceland, at a
rather reasonable price.
The buses are accurate and usually on time, a
big advantage, but the time between trips from
one place can sometimes vary from a few hours
to a couple of day’s, a disadvantage for the less
patient.
You can also check out BSI’s guided tours either at
their website (www.dice.is), or simply contact the
bus terminal.
Get airborne
There are two airlines that handle Iceland’s
domestic flights, Flugfélag Íslands (Air Iceland) and
the smaller islandsflug We recommend you visit
their websites for more info on their fairs and so
on. Both airlines are situated on Reykjavik airport
in the center of Reykjavik. Flying to Akureyri,
usually costs around 7.500kr (100$/90EU.) and
flights to all destinations are frequent, often up to
three times a day, but If you think you’re going
to be enjoying the view on your way, you will be
disappointed.
www.flugfelag.is
www.islandsflug.is
-and of course you can always walk.
Bæjarins Bestu
Hot dog stand
Hafnarstræti 18,
101 Reykjavík
Downtown
Situated across the street from Reykjavík’s flea
market and open late, and almost 24hrs at
weekends, Bæjarins Bestu, is the best place to
try out an Icelandic Hot Dog. Though the hot dog,,
may look like its going to spend the rest of your
trip on your hotel’s bathroom, it actually tastes
delicious. Icelanders are more than proud of their
“hot dog in a bread with everything” invention,
though “everything” is just ketchup, mustard, some
yellow goo and both fried and fresh onion. If these
dodgy looking hot dogs float your boat, you will
soon discover that you can buy them pretty much
everywhere, and the price of a hot dog is usually
surprisingly low compared to most other fast-food.
As a “5 o’clock in the morning too drunk to walk
and out of your mind” snack, it comes highly
recommended by the editors. Bæjarins bestu will
also serve cola with their Hot Dogs, but nothing
else!
Hopefully, the most loved snack in Iceland will
become your daily bread too.
S P O T T H I S
C I T Y G U I D E
Tjörnin
V i
Hringbraut
Hverfisgata
S
no
rr
ab
ra
ut
Ba
ró
ns
st
íg
ur
Túngata
Vatnsm‡r�rarvegu
r
Grettisgata
Freyjugata
Laufásvegur
Geirsgata
T
ja
rn
ar
ga
ta
In
gó
lfs
st
æ
ti
Egilsgata
Njálsgata
Eiríksgata
Bergflórugata
Ó
›i
ns
g
a
ta
Læ
kj
ar
ga
ta
tí
ur
Sóleyjargata
V
ita
st
íg
u
r
Ba
ld
ur
sg
at
a
Leifsgata
Lokastígur
Skoth
úsve
gur
Tryggvagata
S
u›
ur
ga
ta
Skólavör› ustígur
F
ra
kk
as
tíg
ur
Lindargata
Hafnarstæ
ti
B
er
gs
ta
› a
st
ræ
ti
Laugarvegur
Fjólugata
Smáragata
Austurstræti
P
ós
th
ús
st
ræ
ti
Fjölnisvegur
S
m
i›
ju
st
íg
ur
Spítalastígur
K
irk
ju
ve
gu
r
B
ja
rk
ar
ga
ta
A
›a
ls
tr
æ
ti
G
ru
n
da
rs
tíg
ur
Vonarstræti
Sjafnargata
fi órsgata
Vesturgata
Bollagata
M
i›
st
ræ
ti
Vá
la
st
íg
ur
Br
ag
ag
at
a
V
at
ns
st
íg
ur
G
ró
fin
H
a›
as
tíg
ur
Ká
ra
st
íg
ur
Grjótagata
N
ja
r›
ar
ga
ta
M
ím
is
ve
gu
r
fi
or
m
ó›
sg
at
a
Vífilsgata
Karlagata
Hellusund
Kirkjustræti
Mánagata
Hrefnugata
Kjartansgata
Gu› rúnargata
Veghúsastígur
Sölvhólsgata
Skeggjagata
S
kó
la
st
ræ
ti
Nönnugata
T
em
pl
ar
as
un
d
V
el
tu
su
nd
Skarphé› insgata
H
le
m
m
u
r
S
ku
gg
as
un
d
Ur› arstígur
Laugarvegur
F
ra
kk
as
tíg
ur
Skúlagata
Njálsgata
Skúlagat
Bergsta› astræti
Laufásvegur
Eiríksgata
Lindargata
B
ar
ón
ss
tíg
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