Reykjavík Grapevine - 27.06.2003, Síða 12

BY
The following are short descriptions of 10 of the
most beautiful areas for pleasant walks in and
around the capital. Some of them are listed in tourist
booklets but a few of them are off the beaten track,
known and frequented mostly by the natives. These
are the greenest, most lush areas and are wonderful
places for strolling especially on long, bright, sunny
summer evenings. There are other such places but
these are my favorites.
H
OPE
KN
Ú
TSSON
article
- the reykjavík grapevine -12 june 27th - july 10th, 2003
Grasagarður Reykjavíkur
The Reykjavik Botanical Garden
In the heart of Reykjavik in a valley called
Laugardalur is a glorious botanical
garden called Grasagarður Reykjavíkur
which opened in 1961. It is next door to
a zoo and is a lush, verdant oasis which
seems to expand and develop every
year. At one end is a family park with
some rides and other activities. At the
other end is a set of outdoor museum
posters explaining the fascinating
history of the area where in times past
the citizens of Reykjavik came with their
dirty laundry in wheel barrows under
extremely harsh conditions, even in the
dark and cold of winter, and washed
the family clothes and bedding in the
hot water springs that ran through the
valley. The remnants of the facilities
have been refurbished and there are
detailed descriptions with pictures of
how things were done, including some
tragic, fatal accidents. In the center of
the botanical garden is a café inside a
greenhouse, called Café Flóran which is
open until late evening all summer long.
Picnic tables and benches surround the
café, as well as a charming gazebo and
when the sun is shining the place is
bustling with people both indoors and
out. There are many secluded little areas
in this park where you can sit and chat
with a friend in a private atmosphere.
The garden contains samples of most of
the flora that grow in Iceland. It is a feast
for the eyes and nose. Running from one
end of the park to the other is a splendid
esplanade with a thick row of trees on
both sides. I believe this is the longest
such esplanade in the nation.
Hellisgerði in Hafnarfjörður
This is one of the most unusual and
charming parks in Iceland. Located in
the suburb Hafnarfjörður, it is a cosy
garden nestled on many levels in the
lava, with lots of charming nooks and
crannies to explore. Surprisingly, there
is a collection of bonsai trees which was
donated by a private horticulturist after
many years of personal cultivation. This
collection has the distinction of being
the northernmost bonsai garden in the
world and all of the trees were grown
domestically.

Elliðaárdalur
This huge open area in Reykjavík is
a popular outdoor spot for walkers,
joggers, bikers, fishermen, and
picnickers. The valley is filled with trees
and a salmon river runs right through
it, replete with waterfalls. There are
charming little footpaths with a variety
of foot bridges that cross the river in
several places. There are picnic tables
and benches in several clearings. The
scenery is so bucolic that it’s a bit mind-
boggling to realize you are still plunk in
the middle of the capital city. One can
stroll for many hours through varied
terrain in this wide expanse.
Heiðmörk
is a 2800 hectare nature reserve
immediately outside of Reykjavik. It has
lush vegetation by Icelandic standards.
There are 35 km. of footpaths and 45
signs with educational information and
maps throughout the park. There are
several lakes with trout in them. Many
organizations plant trees in Heiðmörk on
an annual basis. There are picnic areas
with grills, and public toilets with running
water. In late summer many people pick
both blueberries and crowberries in
Heiðmörk
Öskjuhlíð hill – bottom and top
The Pearl (Perlan) sits on top of the
hill called Öskjuhlíð. During WWII this
hill played a significant role when
the British army used it for military
installations. Now it is a favorite outdoor
spot with richly forested areas, an
artificial geyser, and dozens of walking
paths. Among the trees you can still
find traces of the army shelters and
trenches. Since 1950, 176.000 trees
have been planted on Öskjuhlíð. There
are 135 different types of flora and 84
different bird species have been spotted
there. If one is quiet and observant, it is
possible to glimpse some of the many
rabbits which make their home on or
rather in the hill. After exploring the
surroundings you can have a snack in
the middle level cafeteria of The Pearl
or go bowling (if you are so inclined) at
the bowling center on the other side of
the hill. From the observation deck of the
Pearl one can see for literally hundreds
of miles in all directions. At the bottom
of the hill, close to the sea, there is
a charming turf-roofed seashore café
called Kaffi Nauthóll situated right next
to the bicycle and jogging path. This
cosy café is a hugely popular spot for
joggers, cyclists, and people strolling
with their baby carriages and dogs, who
want a tranquil respite from the bustle
of the city. There is a wooden deck
where people sit and sip drinks and eat
light meals on sunny days and nights.
Across the road is a white sand beach
(Nauthólsvík) in a sheltered cove where
the seawater has been heated and a
modern service building with showers
and dressing rooms was opened a few
years ago.
Viðey
is an island in the Faxa bay. It is only 1.7
square km in size. You have to take a
small ferry to reach Viðey which takes
less than 10 minutes and leaves from
the Sundahöfn harbor. Iceland’s second
oldest church, from the 12th century,
is on the island. There is also a posh
restaurant in a second old historical
building. There are 5 private dinning
rooms and conference facilities there.
It’s fun and interesting to explore the
island, its beaches, and old graveyard.
There are horses there as well. At one
end of the island is a grill house which
can be rented for parties. Reservations
for that have to be made long in
advance. There is a large outdoor grill
and a very large building with a clear
plastic roof which offers shelter from
wind and rain. The building is filled with
picnic tables and benches, enough for
well over 100 people.
The back alleys in Breiðholt II
In the section of Reykjavik known as
Breiðholt, the neighborhood called
Seljahverfi, there is an utterly delightful
and extensive network of alleys
behind and between the many opulent
private homes. Many of them lead to a
charming man-made pond in a clearing
in the center of the neighborhood. There
are stepping stones in this pond, leading
to a tiny island. There is a gazebo right
near the pond and lots of flowers which
all add to the charm of the area. Taking
a walk here on a summer evening
when the sky is crimson and lavender
and reflected in the little pond, is just
heavenly.
Fossvogsdalur
is a 2.5 km long “link” in the chain of
open areas running from downtown
Reykjavik and the Öskjuhlíð area all the
way to the Elliða lake and Heiðmörk at
the edge of the city. It is home to lush
vegetation and entirely surrounded by
residential neighborhoods, one side
being Kópavogur and the other side
Reykjavik. There are playgrounds,
vegetable gardens, school gardens, and
sports areas.
Fornilundur
This amazing little gem is located at
Breiðhöfða 3 in a commercial district on
the way out of the city heading towards
Grafarvogur and Mosfellsbær beyond.
Fornirlundur is a small formal public
garden which was created in 1991 to
display the wares of a masonry company
B.M Vallá which sells all kinds of stone
slabs. The park is in the grounds of
this company. The ornamental garden
modeled on old European design was
completed in 1999 and has many
trees, flowers, fountains, gargoyles,
and benches, beautifully laid out in
order to give the public an idea of what
can be done creatively with stone and
good landscaping. It is a feast for one’s
senses and a true surprise considering
where it is located. It is open from 8 a.m.
to midnight every day of the week. There
are even two apple trees growing in this
“secret” garden which is a delightful spot
for a short walk.
Kópavogsdalur
This is a charming narrow valley around
2 km long running alongside Dalvegur
in the Reykjavík suburb of Kópavogur.
It runs from near Smáratorg at one
end almost to the big intersection over
Reykjanesbraut at the border of Breiðholt
and Kópavogur. There is a winding brook
which runs the length of the valley and
paved paths with little footbridges that
cross the stream here and there. There
are street lamps along the paths so
evening strolls in the twilight are quite
charming. There are school gardens
and quite varied foliage in this valley
which lies between a commercial district
on the Dalvegur side and large private
homes on the other.
REYKJAVÍK OUTDOORS
ASSORTED SUMMER STROLLS
H E A L T H Y L I V I N G
If you feel like going on a cruise but can´t afford one, Viðey will have to do.
Hafnafjörður, host to big Vikings and tiny trees.
Perlan in Öskjuhlíð, one of several monuments to the reign of Davíð Oddson.
Photo: Aldís
Photo: Aldís