Reykjavík Grapevine - 06.08.2004, Qupperneq 20

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GUIDE TO THE CITY CENTER
This pullout has all the information one might need, so for a safer journey,
pull it out and put it in your pocket.
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Te og Kaffi
Te og Kaffi actually manufacture the coffee for quite a few of the
coffeeshops in Reykjavík. The also run their own stores. Their store in
the centre of town has just moved across the street, to Laugavegur…
They serve paninis, pies and bagels and the city´s largest selection of tea,
but perhaps the most noteworthy aspect of the place is its staff. You see,
most of them have actually served on the Icelandic coffeemaking team.
Jakob is the Icelandic champion, and came in 4th in the international
championship in Trieste this year. Jónína made freestyle champion, with
her Culture Cup mix, which includes orange and white chocolate among
other things. Have one.
CAFE´S
1. Segafredo
By Lækjartorg
McDonalds has departed from the centre of Reykjavík and instead
Italian chain Segafredo has arrived, which isn’t a bad trade-off. You
can smoke indoors, which gives you a nice continental feel, the staff
is Italian and the prices are in Euros as well as krónur. Although Sega
isn’t one of the more expensive places, you wonder whether knowing
how much things cost might ruin your vacation.
2. Ráðhúskaffi
City Hall
With view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City
Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free internet access
for costumers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2
model of Iceland.
3. Grái Kötturinn
Hverfisgata 16a
Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theater and is
very small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good place
to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other traditional
breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, but somewhat
pricey.
4. Café Roma
Laugavegur 118
Is the closest thing you’ll find to a New York deli in town. A lively
cross-section of artists, students and office workers enjoy home baked
pannini and great coffee all at low prices.
5. Mokka
Skólavörðustígur 3a
An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavik
and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls
are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal
customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a
really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the
café since its inception.
6. Kaffivagninn
Grandagarður 10
By the harbor where fishermen and sailors along with bus drivers and
aging tough guys gather for lunch and a cup of coffee. If you want to try
out traditional Icelandic food, pancakes, or bread with smoked lamb,
this is the right place to see another side of Reykjavík.
7. Café Paris
Austurstræti 14
Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious,
popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like
the city it’s named after.
In the mornings it is more quiet and a hangout for philosophers and
artists. Offers you light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when
the weather is nice.
8. Tíu Dropar
Laugavegur 27
With the exception of Mokka, Tíu Dropar is the oldest café in
downtown Reykjavik. The place has a very special feel to it, the decor,
the tables and the chairs, along with the service makes you feel very
much at home. It’s almost like your sitting down for a cup of coffee in
your grandma’s kitchen. The menu is limited, but has the advantage of
constant changes, with new items every day.
9. Café Árnes
By the harbour
Once a ferry, Café Árnes has recently been turned into a coffeeshop
by day and seafood restaurant by night. The cardeck in the basement
now functions as a bar. Situated by the harbour (obviously), have a
traditional waffle with lots of jam and cream and watch the whale
watchers come in.
10. Bleika Dúfan
Laugavegi 21
The name means the Pink Pigeon. A bookstore that specialises in
books in English, so there are a lot of foreigners there as well as people
who work in the surrounding area. A mostly veggie menu (apart from
the ham and cheese sandwich) and internet.
BARS & BISTRO
11. Hverfisbar
Hverfisgata 20
Very long queues to get in, and once there, you wonder what the fuss
was about, or whether the queue was in fact the best part. When it’s
four o’clock on a Sunday morning and you’re still going strong, this
might be the place you’ll wind up, by which time you probably won’t
care that the same song seems to come on every half hour.
12. Café 22
Laugavegur 22
Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated
to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on
quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the
Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the
wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who
want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be
warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after midnight.
13. Kaffibarinn
Bergstaðastræti 1
Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavik, or at least tries to be. Reykjavik prides
itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the
world, and the crowd here seem to be trying to prove the point, with
musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world
famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figur-
ing it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is
the director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently
in the film.
14. Sirkus
Klapparstígur 30
“Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet.
With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside,
welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be
ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were
or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with
musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper
floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus.
15. Nelly’s
Þingholtsstræti 2
The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced
drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly
covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a
large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after
midnight on weekends.
16. Vegamót
Vegamótastígur 4
Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress
up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in
there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top.
Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend
brunch. Try the lobster pizza.
17. Kaffibrennslan
Pósthússtræti 9
One of the largest selection of beers in Reykjavik, but it’s still one of the
few bars in Reykjavík where you can attempt to maintain a conversation
after midnight on weekends. Good coffee and, for those on a budget,
they are generous with the refills.
18. Rósenberg
Lækjargötu 2
It has a history as both a dance and a rock club, but has recently
reopened with a Jazz theme and has started serving food. It´s a place
to see up and coming Jazz bands like the teenage Danny and the
Dixieland Dwarfs as well as more established acts.
19. Grand Rokk
Smiðjustígur 6
A place true to the spirit of Rock ‘n’ Roll and bands that don’t do
covers. Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no
less than three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge
admission or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to
starving artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hang-
out for chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might
wander in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One
of the best places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week.

20. Bar 11
Laugavegur 11
The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of
Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is recited
most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to come
down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films.
21. Kaffi Kúltur
Hverfisgötu 18
For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about
town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its
something of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just
across the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and
older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts.
Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone can join in, but this is not a
place to learn as the regulars know their way around a dancefloor.
22. Jón Forseti
Aðalstræti 10
The oldest house in Reykjavík is now, you guessed it, a gay club.
Named after founding father and national hero Jón Sigurðsson, who
lived there for a while, it now has various events, including concerts,
plays and a gay cabaret, performed on a small stage that tries its best to
look big with curtains and everything. So how long until they change
George Washington’s old place into a gay bar? You heard it here first.
23. Café List
Laugavegur 20a
“List” means “art”, the art mostly consisting of jazz bands that play
there frequently. Looks perhaps more like a hotel bar than a seedy jazz
club, but the prices of beer has gone down, so they deserve our support.
24. Prikið
Bankastræti 12
Used to be a traditional coffee house which has been around longer
than any but, after a change of clientele, they now cater to a younger
crowd. A diner during the day and a nightclub on weekends. You can
also borrow games there, such as backgammon or chess.
25. Póstbarinn
Pósthússtræti 13
Situated by Austurvöllur, Póstbarinn is one of few restaurants in
downtown Reykjavík with outdoor service. The décor on the inside may
appear a little cold but can be avoided by staying outside, although this
may also appear a little cold. Live jazz every now and then and the fish
menu is not as expensive as some. Try the plaice.
26. Celtic Cross
Hverfisgata 26
Arguably the bar in town that comes closest to deserving the title of
Irish, even though the Dubliner tries harder. Except for the coffin in
the back, it’s very much alive. Live music almost every night, a trouba-
dour on the upper floor and a band in the basement, both doing their
best to make a living as human jukeboxes.
CLUBS
27. Gaukur á Stöng
Tryggvagata 22
Iceland’s oldest club is turning 20 this fall. During the day it’s a pool
pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by more
mainstream bands. On weekends there is usually a lot of action with
cover bands playing everything from Britney to the Beatles. Without
exception you’ll be charged at least 1000kr for entrance in the evenings.
Crowd: 20+
28. Nasa
by Austurvöllur
Used to be a theatre, but is now a club. Great sound system and oc-
casional live bands. The towns biggest club, but the high prices do limit
the crowd somewhat. Admission 1000 krónur.
29. Mojito bar
Austurstræti 16
Situated on the 5th floor, and is only accessible by elevator. A place
where you can run into MP´s and business tycoons living it up. That
might be some indication of the price range. The candleholders, for
some inexplicable reason, are Turkish hashpipes. It´s only open Fridays
and Saturdays between 11 and 3.
30. Leikhúskjallarinn
Hverfisgata 19
Recently opened again and is gaining respect, It’s a Restaurant during
the day but a dance place during night (weekends of course). The crowd
here is usually little more mature then in the other clubs. Talented DJs
play with the drunken crowd.
Crowd: 25+
RESTAURANTS
31. Pasta Basta
Klapparstíg 38
An affordable Italian place. The pasta is has generous portions and the
salad with grilled chicken is a good light option. The garden is nice,
with a glass ceiling protecting punters from the wind and the rain. It
has paper covering the tables, and guests are supplied with crayons so
the can decorate their surroundings as they wait for the meal.
32. Tveir Fiskar
Geirsgötu 9
Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At
lunchtime you can have a three course meal for 2300, which isn’t too
bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the
Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland.
33. Hornið
Hafnarstræti 15
Means “the corner” and the place lives up to its name. This is actually
the oldest Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its 25th year, which
says something about the scene here before then. Excellent quality
pizza, pasta and salads and yet remaining one of the more affordable
ones. Try the calzone.
34. Vox
Nordica Hotel
Perhaps a typical off-lobby restaurant, bistro, bar in a four-star hotel,
the Vox looks at first glance like a fancy cafeteria spiced up for an
official reception. But please do not let that glance throw you off! The
restaurant has a modern interior with extremely un-Icelandic décor,
however the kitchen saves the situation. Run by a master chef, a recent
winner of the super gastro competition “Bocuse d’Or,” the Menu is
tops.
35. 3 Frakkar
Baldursgata 14
This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with
an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialties of Icelandic
traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ-
ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re
lucky, Chef Ulfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the
clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Ulfar for
dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t
forget to make a reservation!
36. Apotek
Austurstræti 16
Formerly the central drugstore of Reykjavik, established in the late
1800s, the Apotek is now a modern restaurant with an Art Deco
interior. You can still see the names of the chief managing pharmacists/
owners on the wall of the bar. Today, this “drugstore” serves a different
type of milkshake. Now look for a sizzling visual kitchen (behind a
glass wall) with a Super Menu! Apotek is an eating experience not to
be missed.
37. Tapas
Vesturgata 3b
For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening is
well spent at Tapas, where you can vile away the evening having course
after course of wonderful miniature dishes served. Recommended is
the garlic fried lobster and lamb in apricot sauce. If you don’t feel like
getting up right away afterwards, there’s also a lounge to lounge in, and
the paintings there are worth a look.
38. Jómfrúin
Lækjargata 4
In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in
Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first
rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly
from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies.
39. Rossopomodoro
Laugavegur 40a
This is a new chain of eateries trying to move away from the American
image of pizza joints. Originally a local Napoli venture, now a string of
modestly cool restaurants striving to make it in Northern Europe. Ice-
land is one of the first places for Rossopomodoro outside Italy. A clever
beginning in a country absolutely free from Neopolitan traditions. A
modest wine list with good prices
40. Tjarnarbakkinn
Vonarstræti 3
Above the Iðnó theatre, so it´s a good place to go before shows, or dur-
ing if you prefer a more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by the window you
get a nice view of the pond. It´s not a bad place to try one of Iceland´s
culinary specialities, the lamb steak, one of those rare traditional treats
that does not come as a shock to the uninitiated.
FAST FOOD
41. Nonnabiti
Hafnarstræti 11
The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but
this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík
area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy
living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing
“size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have
lunchtime offers.
42. Mama Taco´s
Lækjargata 8
One of those places that seem to be always open, and hence you find
yourself going to late on Saturday nights as consolation when it seems
inevitable you´ll be going home alone. And as consolations go, it´s
not bad. Rather reasonable by local standards, and they have all the
tortillaish Mexican standards.
43. Bernhöftsbakarí
Bergstaðastæti 13
A bakery with traditions going back some 150 years, although it has
changed locations. Apart from a supermarket, a bakery is still the best
way to fill your belly. Try the staple of Icelandic childhood and beyond:
a snúður roll with chocolate milk.
44. Bæjarins bestu
Tryggvagata
They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product
lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog
in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remulade (don’t ask), fried and raw
onion. The standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow it tastes better.
45. Pizza 67
Tryggvagata 26
The local pizza chain that’s trying to take on the world, and who
currently operate a place in the Faeroes and China, as well as all over
Iceland. The have a Summer of Love theme, which doesn’t really
extend beyond the names of the pizzas, a few slogans and a few posters,
but the pizzas are nice. They also do deliveries. They have a lunchtime
buffet for 990, for those in search of quantity for the króna.
46. Eldsmiðjan
Bragagata 38a
Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly
more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection
of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can
also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll
rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy
restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well.
47. Vitabar
Bergþórugata 21
Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries
for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must
go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The
Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here.
48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum)
Laugavegur 20b
Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the
same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the
theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish al-
ways on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and
wine. Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime,
slips slightly over in the evening.
49. Pizza Pronto
Vallarstræti 4
Conveniently located by Ingólfstorg, and serves slices until late at night.
A good place to have a snack in between bars, particularly if you don’t
want a whole Hlölli. They also have a menu (in 9 languages, no less) of
three sizes of pizzas with a good selection of toppings. Nice, but seems
a bit pricey for the surroundings.
50. Reykjavík Bagel Company
Laugavegur 81
Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus-
stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the
morning than the more hardcore fast foods farther down the street.
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