Reykjavík Grapevine - 08.04.2005, Síða 27

DINING,
EATING &
GRUBBING
by Maria Alva Roff
Location, location, location. Kaffi Sólon is a big, friendly space with a big upstairs bar and
possibly the best window for people watching in Reykjavík. Originally a paint store, then a
bistro-cum-jazz club cum art venue, it floundered until it hit the right note going smartly as an
“international hang.” Its typical devotee appears to be young, well-dressed vagabonds in their
20s, joined by all ages of travellers or the occasional local looking for a place to eat breakfast on
Sunday. Boasting a friendly, hip ambience with a wi-fi hotspot, a rack of well-stocked magazines
is designed for browsing at your table, art on the walls, Sólon reminds me of the Newsroom
in Los Angeles; with avant-garde glossies from Europe with names you’ve never heard of and
outrageous covers replacing Hollywood trades.
Sólon’s success besides location, is its high comfort level. Despite its frantic nightlife, everybody’s
welcome. You want to sip tea and write poetry all afternoon, no problem! The eats are eclectic.
Be it burgers, burritos, quiche, tex mex or risotto, Icelandic monkfish, lamb. There are spicy
noodle-based dishes big enough to feed two hungry people. You can sip on whatever you can
afford, from Veuve Clicquote champagne to Carlsberg. Sólon is open Mon-Thursday from 11
- 01. Friday and Saturday from 11 - 05,30. Sunday from 12 - 01. $$-$$$
Kaffi Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, Tel: 562-3232
R
estaurants
The oldest house in Reykjavik, built in 1854 by a wealthy Danish merchant is also one of its
oldest restaurants, going from house to bakery to disrepair to historical landmark when it opened
its doors as a restaurant in 1981. Inside the black 19th Century landmark is a time machine back
to historical Reykjavik, a Danish colony of decorum and huge meals. Candles at each table flatter
the diners; a decent pianist thrums the keys of the Baby Grand piano with understated music that
people actually hum to, and there is a friendly bar upstairs. The young formally-dressed wait staff
are professional and attentive. No water tumbler, no bread basket goes empty for long. The bread
is home-baked, so are the desserts. Any dish you are served from a spaghetti-like squid starter to
goose pate, salted cod tartar and reindeer will be explained in detail right down to the last spring
onion.
However, the entrée’s with their plethora of sauce-runneth-over dishes may deliver a little too
much Victorian age heavy European dining—modern diners will feel the sauces obliterate some
terrific Icelandic fish and lamb.
Laekjarbrekka is popular with tourists anxious to feast on Icelandic fare such as puffin, whale,
lamb for which the restaurant has prepared special platters and it’s a dress-up place for middle-
aged Icelanders out to celebrate something special. It is not a jeans and t-shirt place. Open 7 days.
Reservation required. Seats 70. $$$$
Lækjarbrekka, Bankastræti 2, Tel 551 4430
This quiet modish bistro adjacent to the discreet Hotel Fron seems miles away from Reykjavík’s
thumping party central while being right smack in the centre. Owner Hanna Magnúsdóttir is
intent on making the Angelo Mediterranean in feeling while relying on good Icelandic fare such as
mountain fed lamb and Icelandic salmon. There is imagination at work here in starters of rare beef
with pesto and camembert; speared tiger shrimp in garlic sauce. There is also a nice dinner menu,
fillet of lamb, salmon steak, butter-fried catfish cheeks. The lunch menu presents more standard
fare: chicken salad and bacon hamburgers. This looks to be the place where the stylish older (30s)
crowd might come to chat, eat light sides, sip wine and relax. Seats 80 indoors, 30 on an outdoor
terrace, weather permitting. $$$
Angelo, Laugevegur 22a, Tel:562-6222
ANGELO
LÆKJARBREKKA
KAFFI SÓLON Reviews By Roberta Ostroff
Restaurant prices:
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Under ISK1000 Between ISK1000 and ISK 2500
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Between ISK 2500 and ISK 4000
$ $ $ $ $ $ $
Over ISK 4000
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