Reykjavík Grapevine - 10.06.2005, Blaðsíða 24

GUIDE TO THE CITY CENTER
This pullout has all the information one might need, so for a safer journey,
pull it out and put it in your pocket.
CAFÉS
1. Café Roma
Laugavegur 118
Is the closest thing you’ll find to a New York deli in town. A lively
cross-section of artists, students and office workers enjoy home-baked
panini and great coffee all at low prices.
2. Ráðhúskaffi
City Hall
With a view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City
Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free Internet access
for customers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2
model of Iceland.
3. Grái Kötturinn
Hverfisgata 16a
Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theatre and
is quite small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good
place to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other
traditional breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting,
but somewhat pricy.
4. Café Paris
Austurstræti 14
Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious,
popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like
the city it’s named after.
In the mornings it is quieter and a hangout for philosophers and artists.
Offers light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when the weather
is nice.
5. Mokka
Skólavörðustígur 3a
An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavík
and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls
are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal
customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a
really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the
café since its inception.
6. Feng Shui
Laugavegur 42b, by Frakkastígur
Inside the Feng Shui house is a café called “Teahouse of the August
Moon”. The café just recently opened and they serve organic cakes,
biscuits and the largest selection of tea in town. Try the waffle biscuits
and have a Kashmir tea latte.
7. Svartakaffi
Laugavegur 54
Read the newspaper, have a cup of coffee, have a philosophical conver-
sation with your cigarette and enjoy the speciality of the house, soup in
a bread bowl. Aim high, it’s not on the ground floor.
8. Tíu Dropar
Laugavegur 27
A very nice “grandma” style café. It’s not that apparent from the street,
being in on the bottom floor, but is actually bigger than it looks. They
serve traditional treats such as hot chocolate and waffles, but grandma is
also known to come up with new delicacies, such as the Snickers cake,
and you can even try her latest work in progress.
9. Kaffitár
Bankastræti 8
Expanded and improved, this is the downtown store for one of the
country’s finest coffee importers. While anything here is good, the
speciality coffee drinks are truly remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca,
an espresso drink with lime and tabasco.
10. Te og Kaffi
Laugavegur 24
The downtown location for the other big coffee importer (see Kaffitár
for the competition), Te og Kaffi boasts the nation’s best-trained
baristi, as proven in a recent competition. Newly situated on the sunnier
side of the street, this coffee shop has an ideal angle for people-gazing.
BARS & BISTRO
11. Sólon
Bankastræti 7a
Named after (in his own opinion, at least), Iceland´s greatest man,
Sólon is a pretty crowded nightclub on Friday and Saturday nights. It
seems to have more lives than one, however, since in the day it’s a fairly
artsy coffeehouse and in the evening (weeknights) they have a decent
menu. You can get a three-course fish of the day meal for under 2000
krónur, or try the delicious fish and meat mixed sticks.
12. Café 22
Laugavegur 22
Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated
to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on
quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the
Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the
wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who
want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be
warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after 01:30.
13. Kaffibarinn
Bergstaðastræti 1
Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavík, or at least tries to be. Reykjavík prides
itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the
world, and the crowd here seems to be trying to prove the point, with
musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world
famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figur-
ing it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is
the director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently
in the film.
14. Sirkus
Klapparstígur 30
“Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet.
With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside,
welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be
ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were
or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with
musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper
floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus.
15. Nelly’s
Þingholtsstræti 2
The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced
drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly
covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a
large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after
midnight on weekends.
16. Vegamót
Vegamótastígur 4
Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress
up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in
there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top.
Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend
brunch. Try the lobster pizza.
17. Póstbarinn
Pósthússtræti 13
Situated by Austurvöllur, Póstbarinn is a bistro prized restaurant, a rare
treat. It is also one of few restaurants in Reykjavík with decent outdoor
service. Live jazz once a week and check out the reasonably prized fish
menu they have, only 1490ISK. Try the place.
18. Rósenberg
Lækjargata 2
Perhaps the closest we have to a jazz club, and old instruments line the
walls. People go there for conversation and listening to music rather
than dancing. The place tends to have jazz or blues type music. Regular
players include Outsider legend Mike Pollock and Tom Waits cover
band Misery Loves Company.
19. Grand Rokk
Smiðjustígur 6
A place true to the spirit of rock ‘n’ roll and bands that don’t do covers.
Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no less than
three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge admission
or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to starving
artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for
chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might wander
in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One of the
best places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week.

20. Bar 11
Laugavegur 11
The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of
Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is recited
most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to come
down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films.
21. Hressingarskálinn (Hressó)
Austurstræti 20
The celebrated site of one of the more famous coffeehouses in Iceland,
this bar/ coffeehouse/ restaurant brings a European flair to the city.
That is until about 11, when things get to rockin’, and you can see the
true character of Reykjavík.
22. Pravda
Austurstræti 22
Not, sadly, a meeting place for the communist party but somewhere
quite far from it. This location, which formerly housed Astró, has long
been home to bleached blonde babes and hnakki’s. It is perhaps the bar
in Reykjavík that comes closest to a nightclub-type atmosphere.
23. Kaffi Kúltur
Hverfisgata 18
For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about
town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its
something of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just
across the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and
older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts.
Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone can join in, as a free lesson
from 8-9 p.m. precedes the tango night itself, and most of the regulars
are happy to dance with beginners and visitors.
24. Prikið
Bankastræti 12
Used to be a traditional coffeehouse that has been around longer than
any but, after a change of clientele, they now cater to a younger crowd.
A diner during the day and a nightclub on weekends. You can also
borrow games there, such as backgammon or chess.
25. Rex
Austurstræti 9
A favourite hangout for Kate Winslet look-alikes. Rex is one of the
more posh hangouts, dress code is not insisted upon, but you’ll find
yourself out of place if you’re too casual. Also rumoured to be a haunt
for generous middle-aged ladies.
26. Thorvaldsen
Austurstræti 8
Posh as the fifth circle of hell. That said, they make a mean Mojito. DJs
on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Arrive before 12 if you want to
avoid the queue. Theme nights during the week, wine and cheese on
Wednesdays, Finlandia nights on Fridays and Sunday roast on, well,
Sundays. Civilian attire is looked down upon.
27. Gaukur á Stöng
Tryggvagata 22
Iceland’s oldest bar is now in its early twenties. During the day it’s a
pool pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by a mix
of mainstream and underground bands. On weekends there is usually
a lot of action with cover bands playing everything from Britney to the
Beatles. Admission is sometimes between 500-1000 weekends, but
usually its free.
28. Dillon
Laugavegur 30
From the I’ve-just-been-to-hell-and-boy-am-I-pissed art on the walls,
to the hard rock on the speakers and steady-flowing whiskey at the bar,
Dillon is vying for the aggressive crowd. Now with two floors, though,
many nights it also provides decent seating for merely modest partying.
29. Glaumbar
Tryggvagata 20
One of the few proper sport bars in Reykjavík, so you can go and watch
whatever game happens to be on the TV screens. The establishment is
basically based around the bar, so you won´t have to go a long way for a
drink. Open until five, and has a reputation for late night partying
30. Litli ljóti andarunginn
by Lækjargata 6B
Named after the HC Andersen fairy tale, The Ugly Duckling. The
Duckling is one of the very best places for a quiet night, when even on
Saturday nights you can hear what your partner is saying. They have
recently expanded the place with additional room for seating, and have
food at lunchtime.
RESTAURANTS
31. La Primavera
Austurstræti 9
Everybody laughed when we discovered a contemporary restaurant
that has its most notable influences from northern Italian cooking but
using local Icelandic produce. The unique menu that results from this
combination features homemade pastas, risotto, gnocchi, polenta and
a wide variety of the freshest vegetables, fish, poultry, meat and game.
The menu, the atmosphere and a comprehensive, exclusively Italian
wine list has made La Primavera a favourite among the locals. They
laugh no more!!
32. Tveir fiskar
Geirsgata 9
Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At
lunchtime you can have a three-course meal for 2300, which isn’t too
bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the
Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland.
33. Hornið
Hafnarstræti 15
Means “the corner” and the place lives up to its name. This is actually
the oldest Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its 25th year, which
says something about the scene here before then. Excellent quality
pizza, pasta and salads and yet remaining one of the more affordable
ones. Try the calzone.
34. Humarhúsið
Amtmannstígur 1
One of the oldest restaurants in the country, this fine dining establish-
ment is known for its humar (lobster), but also for an impressive cognac
lounge, and for intimate dining.
35. 3 Frakkar
Baldursgata 14
This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with
an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialities of Icelandic
traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ-
ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re
lucky, Chef Úlfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the
clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Úlfar for
dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t
forget to make a reservation!
36. Pasta Basta
Klapparstígur 38
An affordable Italian place, the pasta is in generous portions and the
salad with grilled chicken is a good light option. The garden is nice,
with a glass ceiling protecting punters from the wind and the rain at all
times of year. Upstairs, the Blue Bar offers a more bar type atmosphere.
37. Tapas
Vesturgata 3b
For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening
is well spent at Tapas, where you can while away the evening having
course after course of wonderful miniature dishes served. Recom-
mended is the garlic-fried lobster and lamb in apricot sauce. If you
don’t feel like getting up right away afterwards, there’s also a lounge to
lounge in, and the paintings there are worth a look.
38. Jómfrúin
Lækjargata 4
In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in
Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first
rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly
from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies.
39. Shalimar
Austurstræti 4
Prides itself on being the northernmost Indian restaurant in the world.
How this affects the food, we don’t know as there are no comparisons
in town. The daily special, comprised of two dishes on your plate, goes
for roughly 1000ISK. But we recommend the Chicken Tikka Masala,
known to be highly addictive. And if the curry gets to you, they have a
self-service ice cream cone machine.
40. Tjarnarbakkinn (Iðnó)
Vonarstæti 3
Above the Iðnó theatre, so it’s a good place to go before shows, or dur-
ing if you prefer a more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by the window you
get a nice view of the pond. It’s not a bad place to try one of Iceland’s
culinary specialities, the lamb steak, one of those rare traditional treats
that does not come as a shock to the uninitiated.
FAST FOOD
41. Nonnabiti
Hafnarstræti 11
The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but
this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík
area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy
living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing
“size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have
lunchtime offers.
42. Pizza King
Hafnarstræti 18
Yes, you can go here late at night and grab the best piza in town, but
it is also home to the best lunch specials, and food so good you’d eat
it sober, something you can’t say for most food in Reykjavík. Call in
advance if you’re going during the day.
43. Purple Onion
Hafnarstræti 18
Stepping up Reykjavík’s diversity a notch, the Purple Onion serves up
Eastern European and Indian food fast. If you are as uncultured as we
are, just smile and say you’re hungry, and they’ll give you something
nice for under 1000 ISK.
44. Bæjarins bestu
Tryggvagata
They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product
lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog
in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remoulade (don’t ask), fried and raw
onion. The standard Icelandic hot dog, only somehow it tastes better.
45. Hlölli
By Ingólfstorg
Where Nonni used to work before he went solo, due to creative dif-
ferences no doubt. They have a somewhat larger selection of subs than
Nonni, and they also have smaller sizes for kids and weight watchers.
Brave souls might want to try the Gúmmí-Bátur (rubber boat), which
might seem like an oversized relative of the ever-present pulsa.
46. Eldsmiðjan
Bragagata 38a
Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly
more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection
of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can
also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll
rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy
restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well.
47. Vitabar
Bergþórugata 21
Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries
for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must
go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The
Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here.
48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum)
Laugavegur 20b
Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the
same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the
theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish al-
ways on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and
wine. Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime,
slips slightly over in the evening.
49. Dominos Pizza
Welcome to Iceland, home of the most profitable Dominos franchises
in the world. You know the taste. The number, for anywhere in
Iceland, is 58-12345. Go local and hit the global chain. Look by the
harbour downtown.
50. Reykjavík Bagel Company
Laugavegur 81
Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus-
stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the
morning than the more hardcore fast foods further down the street.
In keeping with our commitment to better serve both tourists and Icelanders alike,
Grapevine is proud to announce that we’ve opened a new store called the Grapevine
Info. Located on Laugavegur 11, Grapevine Info will provide all that anyone will
need to know about concerts, nightlife, exhibits and other happenings in Reykjavík
and around Iceland, serving as a more in-touch guide to the country than Iceland
has ever had. In addition, we’ll be selling music, books and clothes at reasonable
prices. Come find out about the Iceland the tourist information centres can’t – or
won’t – tell you about.
Laugavegur 11, 101 Reykjavík, Mon.-Sat., 12:00 to 22:00
The
Grapevine info
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