Reykjavík Grapevine - 05.08.2005, Blaðsíða 34

It’s the kind of place your parents could have been going to
religiously every Monday for the last 20 years. Lauga Ás proudly
proclaims itself the oldest restaurant in Reykjavík, which speaks
for its popularity in a land of fads and trends. Its unobtrusive
location in a strip mall almost next to the Laugardalur
swimming pool isn’t likely to draw in any casual passers-by,
but it is clear from the regulars inside that Lauga Ás is a well-
regarded secret.
Family-run (and family-friendly: there is an extensive children’s
menu and small play area for kids), this restaurant has a
comfortable, relaxed atmosphere. You won’t feel out of place if
you turn up a little scruffy from swimming, hiking, or souvenir-
shopping all day. That’s a welcome change from some places
downtown, where you might not feel like you fit in unless you
have the right haircut.
The décor is, I imagine, almost exactly as it was when the
restaurant opened in 1979, yet it does not seem tired or overly
dated. Actually I think the matching checked curtains and
lampshades, as well as the three-foot ceramic chefs holding the
menus, seem to add to the charm of the place.
Lauga Ás specializes in seafood and fish (especially varieties that
are unavailable elsewhere, states the menu), and offers a number
of three-course menus centred around lobster tails paired with
fish, meat, or game. Ignore or enjoy the rather galling spelling
errors in the English part of the menu, something which seems
common to every restaurant in Reykjavík, and you will be
able to choose from a lobster feast (2990 ISK) or lobster party
(lobster paired with another food, 2900 – 3300 ISK), or select
from the a la carte assortment, including hamburgers and pasta
dishes. The main courses may seem a trifle pricey, but they all
come with soup. For dessert, I can recommend the ice cream
products: my ice cream cake had a delicious layer of marzipan
for added texture and flavour. Portions are generous, well-
presented, and just plain yummy.
If you’re staying in the Laugar Valley area, this is a
recommended place for friendly service and good food without
a gourmet price. Think Humarhúsið for people in outdoor wear
and hiking boots.
Open Weekdays 11:00 – 21:00 Weekends 15:00 – 21:00
www.laugaas.is (featuring great photo of the ceramic menu-holding
chefs)

There seem to be three things that are crucial to the successful
running of the bistro-bars that are ubiquitous in Reykjavík:
1. Good food, preferably served with artistically drizzled
balsamic glaze
2. Surroundings that are comfortable for anyone from laptop
users or gossiping girlfriends, to first daters and giddy revellers
3. A healthy assortment of beautiful young Nordic people
drinking lattés or Coke
Oliver, the current bar du jour in Reykjavík, is expert in all
these fields. The food was delicious and well priced. My starter
of gnocchi provencal (890 ISK) was creative and flavourful,
and presented with the requisite balsamic glaze. The goat’s
cheese stuffed chicken breast (1950 ISK) was fantastic and my
companion raved about her baked cod (1890 ISK). Everything
was beautifully presented and the coffee cups were especially
nifty (they are from the “Body Talk” series, if that provides any
hint of the reason). Thanks to the large portions, the food is
very good value. Many starters would easily suffice for a main
course.
The atmosphere at Oliver is very similar to its bistro-bar
competitors. There’s a spacious patio on the roof at the back for
the few sunny days of summer. A nice touch is the rule that the
ground floor remains non-smoking until 10 pm.
The managers at Oliver may be following the pattern of these
types of establishments to the letter, but the news is not all
good, however. The service, while friendly, was sporadic. It
took a while for drinks to arrive and to get someone’s attention
to order dessert. The service was fairly indicative of the general
mood of the restaurant. Oliver knows it has good food. It knows
it is the most popular bistro at the moment. Why does it need
to do anything else?
This complacency certainly does not seem to be affecting
Oliver’s popularity. Maybe the food and some eye candy really
are all people are looking for.
Restaurants in Reykjavík
3 Frakkar Baldursgata 14 Phone: 552 3939
Hornið Hafnarstræti 15 Phone: 551 3340
Jómfrúin Lækjargata 4 Phone: 551 0100
Maru, Aðalstræti 12 Phone: 511 4440
Pasta Basta, Klapparstígur 38 Phone: 511 2238
Tapas, Vesturgata 3B, Phone: 551 2344
Tveir Fiskar, Geirsgata 9 Phone: 511 3474
Vox Nordica Hotel Suðurlandsbraut 2, 444 5050
Cafe Victor Hafnarstræti 1-3, Phone: 561 9555
Cafe Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, Phone: 562 3232
Vegamót, Vegamótastigur 4, Phone: 511 3040
La Primavera, Austurstræti 9, Phone: 561 8555
Shalimar, Austurstræti 4, Phone: 551 0292
Á næstu grösum, Laugavegur 20a, Phone: 552 8410
Tilveran, Linnetstígur 1, Hafnarfjörður Phone: 5655250
DINING,
EATING
GRUBBING
Restaurants
LAUGA ÁS
The Ideal Place for….
Eliza Reid on Reykjavík Dining
Under ISK 1000
Between ISK 1000 and ISK 2500
Between ISK 2500 and ISK 4000
$
$ $
$ $ $
$ $ $ $
Over ISK 4000
Frím
ann
&
Siggi Hall at Hótel Óðinsvé
Þórsgata 1. Tel. 511 6677
$ $
Laugavegur 20, Tel. 552 2300,
www.cafeoliver.is
SIGGI HALL
Lauga Ás Seafood Restaurant,
Laugarásvegur 1,
Tel. 553-1620
$ $ $
OLIVER
$ $ $ $
Next to the menu on display outside Siggi Hall is a selection of
quotes from various illustrious sources: “The food is amazing”
(CNN); “Might be worth a trip to Iceland all by itself ” (Forbes).
It would seem from what is written here that this is one of the
greatest places on earth. That’s a lot to live up to.
And although the guidebooks rave, some Icelanders I have
spoken to say it’s not as good as it used to be. The truth, of
course, lies somewhere in between, but far more on the positive
side than the negative.
The atmosphere at Siggi Hall is bright and cheerful, yet
classy. It’s set in the sunroom of the Hótel Óðinsvé, so there
is lots of natural light. The jazz greats are crooning in the
background. It’s fine to dress casually, but a bit of effort in the
fashion department would not be amiss. This is not a romantic
environment; save your marriage proposal for somewhere a
bit more intimate. But if you want to celebrate your recent
promotion, or just to enjoy a bit of a splurge night out on your
last evening in town, this is perfect.
As one would expect from a place this highly rated, the food
was of superior standard and creatively presented. The menu
features several fish items, and certainly the parmesan-crusted
halibut (2900 ISK) was delicious, although my lamb with
blueberry sauce (4000 ISK) was also good. The steamed
puddings were well worth the 20-minute wait to cook them.
One of the most original creations was an amuse bouche of
smoked salmon marinated in gin and tonic – a noticeable yet
subtle flavour.
Siggi Hall himself, a famous personality within Iceland from his
days as a TV chef, is a real presence in his restaurant. He visits
each table at least once to chat amiably in various languages. I
found his meanderings quite charming.
Siggi Hall has been around a while. Having visited to find out
whether it had lost its sheen, this place may not have the thrill
of a new experience, but it’s still a strong contender in the Great
Reykjavík Restaurant stakes.
siggihall@odinsveum.is
Open for dinner only. Closed Mondays.
Reservations recommended but not required.
Frím
ann
Frím
ann
Ga-Jol,
Good for Cooking
Turns Pork Loins
into Chicken
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