Reykjavík Grapevine - 25.08.2006, Blaðsíða 15

RESTAURANTS
Roma, at the far end of the main street
Laugavegur, is a deli-type coffee house,
offering a variety of breads, soup and
tempting cookies, cakes and other sweet
things. Their special offers around lunch
time are always a bargain.
1
Café Roma
Laugavegur 118
Ráðhúskaffi, situated inside the Reykjavík
City Hall, is a comfortable choice for the
view over Tjörnin (the pond). It’s espe-
cially convenient on Iceland’s so-called
‘window weather’ days – the days that are
only beautiful if you stay indoors. Coffee,
light snacks, art exhibitions, Internet ac-
cess, a topographic model of Iceland and
municipal politics: all conveniently under
the same roof.
2 Ráðhúskaffi
City Hall
Grái Kötturinn (the grey cat) is a cosy
place that’s especially popular during the
morning hours. Their breakfast is legend-
ary, but they tend not to be open later in
the day. A great place to nurse a hangover,
or just to start the workday.
3 Grái Kötturinn
Hverfisgata 16a
Despite hosting the occasional rock con-
cert, Kaffi Hljómalind is a peaceful café
with perfect windows for people watching
and a lot of daylight. It’s run by a non-
profit organisation and only serves organic
& fair-trade products. It’s strictly a non-
smoking establishment.
4 Kaffi Hljómalind
Laugavegur 21
Kaffi Mokka is one of the oldest cafés
in Reykjavík, dating back to the 1950s.
Famous for their dark, smoky atmosphere,
loyal clientele and some of the best waffles
in town.
5 Mokka
Skólavörðustígur 3a
The name literally means “grandma’s cof-
fee shop,” but here you can find people
of all ages and all nationalities. It has a
very friendly, down-to-earth feel to it.
Affordable prices on coffee, cakes and the
lunch menu. Try their speciality, the South
African latte.
6 Ömmukaffi
Austurstræti
One of the youngest coffeehouses in
Reykjavík is also the homiest. Almost like
a living room away from home, Babalú
keeps it simple, quiet and cosy with coffee
and the occasional crêpe.
7 Babalú
Skólavörðustígur 22a
CAFÉ
This is the downtown store of one of the
country’s finest coffee importers, and the
quality of the product is as excellent as
you would expect. While anything here is
good, the speciality coffee drinks are truly
remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca, an
espresso drink with lime and Tabasco.
9 Kaffitár
Bankastræti 8
Italian coffee chain Segafredo seems to be
doing brisk business by Lækjartorg, with
locals and tourists alike flocking to sip
their espressos at the conveniently placed
tables outside. The staff are expert baristi,
and, even though Iceland is proud of its
coffee, nobody quite tops the Segafredo
latte.
10 Segafredo
By Lækjartorg
Sólon is a nightclub on Friday and Sat-
urday nights, but during the daytime it’s
a café/bistro. On weeknights they’re a
restaurant with a decent menu as well, and
an art exhibition on the walls to finish the
package.
Known for its all you can eat fish buffet,
this restaurant/guesthouse is also a fine
place to sit down and relax with a latté or
some beer when suffering from a case of
severe hipster-burn.
12 Litli Ljóti
Andarunginn
Lækjargata 6b
Kaffibarinn has a reputation as a hangout
for artists and others who think they are
hip. Friday and Saturday nights serve as
the weekly peaks of claustrophobia, while
weekdays and afternoons can be comfort-
able, if banal.
13 Kaffibarinn
Bergstaðastræti 1
Of absolutely no relation to the trashy
culture guide, or trashy TV station that
stole its name, Sirkus is worshipped like
few other locales in Iceland. Elements of
the odd and alternative cultural institu-
tion include an upstairs that looks and
smells like a bus, a garden, a flea market
and a queue on weekend nights that looks
never-ending.
14 Sirkus
Klapparstígur 30
A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub-
terranean, as all traditional coffee shops
should be, and this place makes you feel
warm, both with its atmosphere and the
generosity of the coffee refills.
8 Tíu Dropar
Laugavegur 27
11
Sólon
Bankastræti 7a
BARS 'N' BISTROS
Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing
lunch menu, they serve brunch during the
weekends, and the kitchen is open until
22:00 daily. After that the beat goes on,
and you can check the end results in pho-
tos published the day after on their web-
site www.vegamot.is. If you like Oliver, try
Vegamót and vice versa.
16 Vegamót
Vegamótastígur 4
B5 is a bistro with a Scandinavian focus on
the menu. Don’t be fooled by the impres-
sive collection of design classics that you
see in the window when passing by – it’s
neither cold nor overly expensive, but
rather a cosy place with friendly service.
17 B5
Bankastræti 5
As the Viking-style garden and logo accu-
rately signal, this hardcore chess hangout
is no place for the weak. Yes, chess bars are
that tough in Iceland. Even if the down-
stairs atmosphere can feel a bit ominous
at times, it’s one of the best venues for live
music in town. If you speak Icelandic you
can also take part in the pub quiz on Fri-
days at 17:30. Participation is free and the
winner walks away with a case of beer!
19 Grand Rokk
Smiðjustígur 6
While the place is only open on the
weekends, Bar 11 is a popular rock bar
on Laugavegur and one of the main late-
night party venues in town. You’ll feel the
floor jumping every Friday and Saturday,
and it’s neither you nor an earthquake.
Live concerts and a nice foosball table
upstairs.
20 Bar 11
Laugavegur 11
The celebrated site of one of the more
famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/
café/bistro brings a European flair to the
city. That is until about 11, when things
get to rockin’, and you can see the true
character of Reykjavík.
21 Hressingarskálinn
Austurstræti 20
Spelled with a C rather than the Icelandic
K, presumably in an effort to seem more
cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be work-
ing, as the bar has become a hangout for
older foreigners. The Viking ship sitting
on top of the building might also add to
the appeal. The crowd is very mixed, both
in origin and age, and so is the music.
15 Café Victor
Hafnarstræti 1-3
18
Perhaps the closest thing to a jazz club in
town, here old instruments line the walls.
People go there for conversation and to
listen to music rather than dance. The
place tends to have jazz- or blues-type
music, and is developing a bluegrass scene.
Rósenberg
Lækjargata 2
The trendy Café Cultura is located in the
same building as the Intercultural Centre,
and has a distinct international flavour.
A good-value menu, friendly service and
settings that allow you to either sit down
and carry on discussions, or dance the
night away.
23 Café Cultura
Hverfisgata 18
Prikið has changed noticeably in char-
acter in recent years, as it used to be an
old-fashioned and traditional downtown
coffeehouse. Somehow the younger crowd
caught on and transformed the place to its
present form: a diner during the day and
a rowdy nightclub on weekends. You can
also borrow board games there, such as
backgammon or chess, and it is a popular
breakfast spot early in the morning.
24 Prikið
Bankastræti 12
Pravda is one of the biggest clubs/bars in
downtown Reykjavík, situated in one of
the more ideal locations for such an insti-
tution in the city. It’s divided between two
floors, although the distinction between
the ambiance on the top and bottom floors
has faded away in recent times.
22 Pravda
Austurstræti 22
This place is fancy, and it knows it. Civil-
ian attire is looked down upon, so don’t
expect to get in wearing hiking boots. DJs
play on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
Arrive before 12 if you want to avoid the
queue.
26 Thorvaldsen
Austurstræti 8
Kaffi Amsterdam is a cosy tavern located
in the centre of Reykjavik. Known mostly
for its rambling late-hour drinking crowd,
Amsterdam recently established itself as a
fresh new venue for the city’s music talent.
27 Kaffi Amsterdam
Hafnarstræti 5
Ölstofan is an unpretentious, comfort-
able and straightforward place to do just
that. It’s also known as a hangout for the
‘intellectual’ circles of Reykjavík, as well as
some media types, the opposite of ‘intel-
lectual’ in this country. Music is almost
never played at Ölstofan – so you can
actually have a conversation.
25 Ölstofan
Vegamótastígur
Partly a sports bar, Glaumbar is also a
popular venue for live bands and DJs, but
mostly it’s just a good place to get drunk
and party. They can host private gather-
ings before midnight on weekdays, and
you would be hard pressed to get a better
deal on a keg party than here.
29 Glaumbar
Tryggvagata 20
Legendary Icelandic rockers have been
known to DJ at this place from time to
time, and Þröstur from Mínus has even
tended the bar. You can pretty much guar-
antee this place will be rocking any time
you walk in on a Friday or Saturday night.
30 Dillon
Laugavegur 30
Café, bistro, restaurant, bar – whatever
you want to call it, Kaffibrennslan is a
consistently pleasant place to go for snacks
and refreshments of whatever variety you
happen to crave. They also have the largest
selection of beers in Reykjavík. We recom-
mend the Cobra and Staroprammen.
28 Kaffibrennslan
Pósthusstræti 9
Located right by the harbour, Tveir Fiskar
boasts some of the freshest fish in town
– they prefer it to still be moving when
they buy it. Their menu also dares to be
different, and this just might be your only
chance to sample the debatable delights of
raw dolphin.
32 Tveir Fiskar
Geirsgata 9
Means “the corner” and the place lives up
to its name by… well, being on a corner.
This is actually the oldest Italian restau-
rant in town, celebrating its 27th year, and
it always seems to be consistently popular.
Excellent quality pizza, pasta and salads –
all priced affordably.

33 Hornið
Hafnarstræti 15
This authentic Thai restaurant is one of
the better bargains in town. We challenge
you to find a better meal for the same
price anywhere else. They have their menu
outside with numbered colour images. Just
say the number and eat the food.
31
Krua Thai
Tryggvagata 14
If you like fresh seafood and are in the
mood for something a little different, this
cosy but ambitious restaurant just might
fit the bill. Shellfish, salmon, squid, lobster
and other creatures of the deep predomi-
nate the menu here. There is no smoking
in the restaurant, but if you want to have a
go at sitting outside there are fleece blan-
kets provided.
35 Vín og Skel
Laugavegur 55
Tjarnarbakkinn is right above the Iðnó
theatre, so it’s an ideal place to go before
shows, or during if you prefer a more quiet
atmosphere. If you sit by the window
you get nice view of the pond, and in the
summers you can enjoy your meal outside.
The lamb comes especially recommended;
it’s one of those rare traditional Icelandic
dishes that aren’t an acquired taste.
36 Tjarnarbakkinn
Vonarstræti 3
Perennial favourite, Argentína is a fine
dining steak house. For whale-etarians,
you can also sample the local Minke, or
excellent fish. This restaurant has main-
tained its reputation with three things:
perfect cuts of meat, excellent service, and
an excellent wine list.
34 Argentína
Barónsstígur 11a
Places recommended for their local touch
tend to instantly loses any element of the
exotic, but Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) is
an exception. It’s a combination of a fish
store and a... well, not exactly a restaurant
but a place that serves prepared food,
located in a harbour warehouse. Smell of
fish, the view over the harbour, an old man
that looks exactly like an Icelandic fisher-
man should. What’s not to love?
38 Sægreifinn
Geirsgata
Prides itself on being the northernmost
Indian/Pakistani restaurant in the world.
Their cooks know exactly what they are
doing with the spices and as a result we
have given them two glowing reviews and
a ‘Bezt í Heimi’ recommendation in the
past. You can still see the latter article
hanging in their window – and we stand
by it.
39 Shalimar
Austurstræti 4
Famous for their burgers and fries,
American Style actually serves a variety of
American-influenced dishes with a strong
local flavour. You get the feeling that you
are expected to eat a great deal, so loosen
your belt a bit before you dig in.
41
American Style
Tryggvagata 26
Most people get to know Pizza King after
a late-night drinking session leaves them
tired and hungry downtown, and it truly
is a lifesaver in those situations. The dif-
ference between Pizza King and some less
savoury fast food options downtown is
that you would be happy to go back to eat
there while sober, and their special lunch
offers make that a very attractive options.
42 Pizza King
Hafnarstræti 18
The oldest bakery in Reykjavík, founded
in 1834. If you are particular about your
bread this is about the best place in cen-
tral Reykjavík to stock up on a variety
of freshly baked loaves – they also do a
particularly moist and juicy version of the
ever popular vínarbrauð pastries. You can
even call ahead and have your favourite
items reserved, if you’re afraid someone
else might beat you to that last snúður or
kleina.
43 Bernhöftsbakarí
Bergstaðastræti 13
Those with a bit of money and time on
their hands would do well to spend an
evening or two at Tapas, having course
after course of wonderful miniature dishes
served to them. Oddly, it’s also a great
place to get tasty and affordable lobster.
If you don’t feel like getting up right away
afterwards, there’s also a lounge.
37 Tapas
Vesturgata 3b
40
If you’re looking for high-quality food in a
unique but cosy setting it doesn’t get much
better than Við Tjörnina (literally, By the
Pond). They’re known for their traditional
living room décor and innovative fish
dishes made from a variety of fresh catch-
es. The ambiance is something you have to
experience to truly appreciate.
Við tjörnina
Templarasund 3
FAST FOOD
You know exactly what you get when you
walk into a Subway restaurant, and their
sub sandwiches are always made from
fresh ingredients – right in front of your
eyes. Reasonably priced and far healthier
than most alternatives – provided you
show some restraint when you order.
45 Subway
Austurstræti
Almost certainly the best junk food in the
Greater Reykjavík area, and extremely
popular with drunken youths on week-
ends. This place has none of that Subway
commitment to healthy living, and they
probably contribute significantly to the
ever-increasing “size” of the nation. They
also serve burgers and sandwiches, and
have lunchtime offers.
46 Nonnabiti
Hafnarstræti 11
Tómas originally popularised the ham-
burger in Iceland when he opened his
famous Tommaborgarar shop. A couple of
decades and business ventures later he has
gone back to the basics and now has one
of the most popular fast food restaurants
downtown – affectionately known as Búl-
lan (the joint).
48
Hamborgarabúlla
Tómasar (Búllan)
Geirsgata 1
Some of the best fish and chips in town
can be found at Kebabhúsið, and they ob-
viously have a selection of kebabs as well.
The falafel comes recommended, despite
being a relatively unappreciated menu
item in Iceland, and the beef and lamb
pitas are quite good as well.
49 Kebabhúsið
Lækjargata 2
Actually a bar, but best known for its ham-
burgers. A burger with fries for 500 is one
of the best meal deals in town, but special
mention must go to the Forget-Me-Not
blue cheese and garlic extravaganza.
50 Vitabar
Bergþórugata 21
A veritable institution in central Reykja-
vík, and probably the most consistently
successful business the city has seen,
Bæjarins Bestu is actually just a simple
hot dog stand. Their menu consists of hot
dogs and Coke – and nothing else. You
don’t have to be a Buddhist to ask them to
make you one with everything.
44 Bæjarins Bestu
Tryggvagata
47
12
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Austurstræti Bankastræti
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6
DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK
Recently voted one of seven coolest concept
shops in the world by Danish Magazine
Eurowoman, fashion shop Kronkron truly
lives up to the honor. Opened in 2004
and recently moved to a roomy and newly
renovated location at Laugavegur 63b this
young store sells a selection of high-class
fashion labels like Vivienne Westwood,
Humanoid and Umbro as well as Icelandic
design by Eygló Margrét Lárusdóttir.
SP
OT
thi
s
KRONKRON
One of the first places in Reykjavík to
specialise in vegetarian and vegan dishes.
Despite having changed owners a couple
of years back, the quality has remained
consistent and you almost get the feeling
that the place is being run on sheer prin-
ciple as much as anything else.
First Vegetarian
(Á næstu grösum)
Laugavegur 20b