Reykjavík Grapevine - 02.06.2006, Síða 15

RESTAURANTS
Roma, at the far end of the main street
Laugavegur, is a deli-type coffee house,
and one of the best take-away places in
town. It almost feels unnatural that all
the tempting cookies, cakes and other
sweet things that are calling your name on
the shelves are actually quite reasonably
priced.
1
Café Roma
Laugavegur 118
Ráðhúskaffi inside the Reykjavík City
Hall is a comfortable choice for the view
over Tjörnin, especially recommended on
the so-called window weather days – the
days that are beautiful, as long as you stay
indoors. Also art exhibitions, 80m2s of
miniature Iceland and municipal politics,
all conveniently under the same roof.
2 Ráðhúskaffi
City Hall
Grái Kötturinn (The grey cat) is a cosy
place, and that’s why it’s a shame that it’s
quite often closed when we knock on their
door and peer through the window later
in the evening. Don’t follow our example
and go during the daylight, it’s especially
popular during the morning hours.
3 Grái Kötturinn
Hverfisgata 16a
A peaceful café with perfect windows for
people-watching and a lot of daylight.
Hljómalind is run by a non-profit organi-
sation and it only serves organic & fair
trade products.
4 Kaffi Hljómalind
Laugavegur 21
Kaffi Mokka is the oldest café in Reykja-
vík, dating back to the 1950s. It’s the place
with dark, smoky atmosphere and great
numbers of loyal customers. Their waffles
are best in town. Seriously.
5 Mokka
Skólavörðustígur 3a
A coffee house where you can find all
kinds of people - all ages, all nationalities,
with very friendly, down-to-earth feel to
it. Affordable prices on coffee, cakes and
the lunch menu. Try their speciality, the
(South) African latte.
6 Ömmukaffi
Austurstræti
The youngest coffee house in Reykjavík
is also the homiest. Almost like a living
room away from home, Babalú keeps it
simple, quiet and cozy with coffee and the
occasional crêpe.
7 Babalú
Skólavörðustígur 22a
CAFÉ
Expanded and improved, this is the down-
town store for one of the country’s finest
coffee importers. While anything here is
good, the speciality coffee drinks are truly
remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca, an
espresso drink with lime and Tabasco.
9 Kaffitár
Bankastræti 8
With McDonalds long departed from
the centre of Reykjavík, we got Italian
chain Segafredo, which isn’t a bad trade-
off. The staff are expert baristi, and, even
though Iceland is proud of its coffee, no-
body quite tops the Segafredo latte.
10 Segafredo
By Lækjartorg
Sólon is a nightclub on Friday and Sat-
urday nights, but it seems to have more
lives than one, since in the day it’s a cof-
feehouse and in the evening (weeknights)
they have a decent menu as well, and an
art exhibition on the walls to finish the
package with an artsy touch.
Oliver is one of the biggest hits in town
at the moment. Good news for the early
birds: they open at 8 in the morning with
an extensive brunch menu, staying chic all
day long, until late - always crowded, with
an everlasting queue outside especially
towards weekend nights. Their Mediter-
ranean menu, served in huge portions, is
guaranteed to make you smile.
12 Oliver
Laugavegur 20a
Kaffibarinn is Cool Hip Reykjavík. Blur’s
Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar,
probably figuring it was cheaper than
buying drinks all the time. This place has
managed to serve as a 101 living room
for quite a while already, with DJs often
playing on the weeknights, with volumes
rising towards the weekend. Friday and
Saturday nights serve as the weekly peaks
of claustrophobia.
13 Kaffibarinn
Bergstaðastræti 1
“Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and
games,” quote the bard. Elements of this
odd and alternative cultural institution
also include an upstairs that looks and
smells like a bus, a garden, a flea market
and a queue on weekend nights that looks
never-ending.
14 Sirkus
Klapparstígur 30
A very nice “grandma” style café. Subter-
ranean, as all traditional coffee shops
should be. This place makes you feel
warm, both with its atmosphere and the
generosity of the coffee refills.
8 Tíu Dropar
Laugavegur 27
11
Sólon
Bankastræti 7a
BARS 'N' BISTROS
Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing
lunch menu, they serve brunch during the
weekends, and the kitchen is open until
22 daily. After that the beat goes on, and
you can check the end results in photos
published the day after on their website
www.vegamot.is. If you like Oliver, try
Vegamót and vice versa.
16 Vegamót
Vegamótastígur 4
B5 is a newly opened bistro with a Scandi-
navian focus on the menu. Don’t be fooled
by the impressive collection of design
classics that you see in the window when
passing by – it’s neither cold nor overly
expensive, but rather a cozy place with
friendly service.
17 B5
Bankastræti 5
As the Viking style garden and logo ac-
curately signal, this is no place for the
weak— yes, chess bars are that tough.
Even if the downstairs atmosphere can
feel a bit ominous at times, it’s one of the
best venues for live music in town. Chess,
beer and rock’n’roll.
19 Grand Rokk
Smiðjustígur 6
The rock bar on Laugavegur is one of the
late-night party venues in town. You’ll feel
the floor jumping every Friday and Sat-
urday, and it’s neither you nor an earth-
quake. Live concerts and a nice foosball
table upstairs.
20 Bar 11
Laugavegur 11
The celebrated site of one of the more
famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/
coffeehouse/ restaurant brings a European
flair to the city. That is until about 11,
when things get to rockin’, and you can see
the true character of Reykjavík.
21 Hressingarskálinn
Austurstræti 20
Spelled with a C rather than with the more
traditional K in order to be more cosmo-
politan. This ploy seems to be working, as
the bar has become a hangout for foreign-
ers. The Viking ship sitting on top of the
building might also add to the appeal. The
crowd is very mixed, both in origin and
age, and so is the music.
15 Café Victor
Hafnarstræti 1-3
18
Perhaps the closest thing to a jazz club
in town, with old instruments lining the
walls. People go there for conversation
and listening to music rather than danc-
ing. The place tends to have jazz or blues-
type music, and is developing a bluegrass
scene.
Rósenberg
Lækjargata 2
The recently expanded Cultura is located
in the same building with the Intercultural
Centre. A good value menu, friendly
service and settings that allow you to ei-
ther sit down and carry on discussions, or
dance the night away – tango on Wednes-
days starting with free lessons from 20 to
21:00.
23 Café Cultura
Hverfisgata 18
Used to be the oldest continuously run-
ning traditional coffeehouse on the street,
but, after a change of clientele, they now
cater to a younger crowd. A diner during
the day and a nightclub on weekends,
you can also borrow games there, such as
backgammon or chess.
24 Prikið
Bankastræti 12
Pravda is one of the larger clubs/bars in
downtown Reykjavík. It’s divided between
two floors and also separately into the
Pravda Bar and the Pravda Club. The
club section of Pravda is ideal for dancing,
while the bar section is somewhat more
quiet and chilled out, with occasional live
jazz and sometimes reggae.
22 Pravda
Austurstræti 22
Posh as the fifth circle of hell. DJs on
Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Arrive
before 12 if you want to avoid the queue.
Civilian attire is looked down upon. Do
not expect to get in wearing hiking boots.
26 Thorvaldsen
Austurstræti 8
Iceland’s oldest bar is now in its early
twenties. During the day it’s a pool pub
and on weekday evenings there are live
rock concerts by a mix of mainstream and
underground bands. On weekends there
is usually a lot of action with cover bands
playing everything from Britney to the
Beatles...
27 Gaukur á Stöng
Tryggvagata 22
There are no tricks to this one. You know
what you want and you know what you’ll
get when you enter this simple, straight-
forward pub. We are talking about drink-
ing beer. Known as the hangout for the
intellectual circles of Reykjavík.
25 Ölstofan
Vegamótastígur
One of the few proper sports bars in Reyk-
javík, so you can go and watch whatever
game happens to be on the TV screens.
The establishment is basically based
around the bar, so you won’t have to go a
long way for a drink. Open until five, and
has a reputation for late night partying.
29 Glaumbar
Tryggvagata 20
They have a fish buffet for 2,500ISK
every evening, with the magic words
“eat-as-much-as-you-can” floating in the
air. They also have an Icelandic media
person working there every now and then,
so watch out for a curly haired, friendly
gentleman called Egill.
30 Litli Ljóti Andarunginn
Lækjargata 6b
Kaffibrennslan manages to be just a nice,
“normal” place to go to, and a place to be
seen at, surprisingly enough both at the
same time. A wide variety of beverages,
both bistro menu and a terrace outside the
bar when the weather allows it. The iced
coffee beverage is a delight.
28 Kaffibrennslan
Pósthusstræti 9
Seafood restaurant, although they also do
land-based animals. At lunchtime you can
have a three-course meal for 2,300, which
isn’t too bad, all things considered. The
chef has been awarded the Medal of the
Order of the White Rose by the President
of Finland.
32 Tveir Fiskar
Geirsgata 9
Means “the corner” and the place lives
up to its name. This is actually the oldest
Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its
25th year, which says something about
the scene here before then. Excellent
quality pizza, pasta and salads—all priced
affordably.
33 Hornið
Hafnarstræti 15
It’s easy when you know what you’re do-
ing: good food for a reasonable price. To
make it easier for the rest of us, they have
their menu outside with images in colour
and numbers. Just say the number and eat
the food.
31
Krua Thai
Tryggvagata 14
If you like fresh seafood and are in the
mood for something a little different, this
cosy but ambitious new restaurant just
might fit the bill. Shellfish, salmon, squid,
lobster and other creatures of the deep
predominate the menu here. There is no
smoking in the restaurant, but if you want
to have a go at sitting outside there are
fleece blankets provided.
35 Vín og Skel
Laugavegur 55
Above the Iðnó theatre, so it’s good place
to go before shows, or during if you prefer
a more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by the
window you get nice view of the pond.
It’s not a bad place to try one of Iceland’s
culinary specialities, the lamb steak, one of
those rare traditional treats that does not
come as a shock to the uninitiated.
36 Tjarnarbakkinn
Vonarstræti 3
Argentina is something in the direction of
South American-steakhouse-goes-fine-
dining-in-Reykjavík. It was the first res-
taurant around to offer steaks by weight,
and it focuses on the beef – but they know
their whale, sheep and reindeer as well.
34 Argentína
Barónsstígur 11a
A place to go for the local touch, even if
usually a place recommended with this
argument instantly loses the exotic. Still,
I’d try this one. Sægreifinn (Sea baron) is
a combination of a fish store and a... well,
not exactly a restaurant but a place that
serves prepared food, located in a harbour
warehouse. Smell of fish, view over the
harbour, old man that looks exactly like
an Icelandic fisherman should. What’s
not to love?
38 Sægreifinn
Geirsgata
Prides itself on being the northernmost
Indian restaurant in the world. The daily
special, comprised of two dishes on your
plate, goes for roughly 1,000 ISK. But
we recommend the chicken tikka masala,
known to be highly addictive.
39 Shalimar
Austurstræti 4
The drive-in destination in 101 Reykjavík,
Aktu Taktu is busy all day and all night.
The burgers never disappoint, and the
caramel shakes are a local favourite. If
George Lucas ever makes his proposed
Icelandic Graffiti, Aktu Taktu will have a
central role.
41
Aktu Taktu
Skúlagata 15
Yes, you can go here late at night and
grab the best pizza in town, but it is also
home to the best lunch specials, and food
so good you’d eat it sober, something you
can’t say for most food in Reykjavík. Plan
on a 15-minute wait during lunch, so it’s
best to call or stop at a local bookstore or
souvenir shop while your pizza is cooked.
42 Pizza King
Hafnarstræti 18
The oldest bakery in Reykjavík, founded
in 1834. If you are particular about your
bread this is about the best place in central
Reykjavík to stock up on a variety of fresh-
ly baked loaves – they also do a particularly
moist and juicy version of the ever popular
vínarbrauð pastries.
43 Bernhöftsbakarí
Bergstaðastræti 13
For those with a bit of money and time on
their hands, the evening is well spent at
Tapas, where you can while away the eve-
ning having course after course of wonder-
ful miniature dishes served. If you don’t
feel like getting up right away afterwards,
there’s also a lounge.
37 Tapas
Vesturgata 3b
40
One of the best-known fish restaurants
in Iceland, it also kind of rocks. The cook
is Súkkat member and Megas sidekick
Gunni. Foodwise, they’re known for in-
novative fish dishes made from a variety
of rare fish and shellfish and related raw
materials.
Við tjörnina
Templarasund 3
FAST FOOD
The first sub sandwich shop in Iceland,
opened in 1986, Hlölla Bátar has a large
selection of subs filled and named with
creativity and imagination. Brave souls
might want to try the Gúmmí-Bátur (rub-
ber boat), or go local and choose Sýslu-
mannabátur (sheriff sub) with lamb filling.
45 Hlölla Bátar
By Ingólfstorg
The owner is a miser who charges ad-
ditionally for everything, but this is almost
certainly the best junk food in the Greater
Reykjavík area. The subs are great, none
of that Subway commitment to healthy
living, and they probably contribute sig-
nificantly to the ever-increasing “size” of
the nation. They also serve burgers and
sandwiches, and have lunchtime offers.
46 Nonnabiti
Hafnarstræti 11
Used to be called One Woman Restau-
rant, as there was always the same woman
working there. Has new owners and a
larger staff, but the theme is still vegetar-
ian, with one vegan and one wheat-free
dish always on offer. The only vegetarian
restaurant licensed to carry beer and wine.
48 First Vegetarian
(Á næstu grösum)
Laugavegur 20b
Apart from the multicultural experience
that comes with eating the Icelandic ver-
sion of kebab, which comes with beef
and lamb, or falafel, which comes with
marinara sauce and pickled cucumber, this
eatery has the best fish and chips in town
and a menu that would satisfy the United
Nations.
49 Kebabhúsið
Lækjargata 2
Actually a bar, but best known for its
hamburgers. A burger with fries for 500
is one of the best meal deals in town, but
special mention must go to the Forget-
Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extrava-
ganza.
50 Vitabar
Bergþórugata 21
Their menu is simple: It consists of Coke
and hotdog. And nothing else. Ask for
one with everything, and you’ll get a dog
in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remou-
lade (don’t ask), fried and raw onion. The
standard Icelandic hotdog, only somehow
it tastes better.
44 Bæjarins Bestu
Tryggvagata
47
A new branch of the American Quiznos
has entered the thriving downtown sub
market, and it’s you, our dear, hungry
reader who gains from it. A good selection
of tasty subs, but also sandwiches, salads,
soup of the day. This is Quiznos first
European restaurant, your response will
decide how many more will come East.
Quiznos
Lækjargata
Laugavegur
Austurstræti Bankastræti
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6
DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK
A year ago, Cintamani loaned us some sum-
mer hiking clothes so that we could wander
the extremes of this island in comfort. Since
then, Cintamani has become one of the most
trusted outdoor brands on this Arctic island.
We can say a lot of positive things about
they’re operation, but we just can’t forget
how damned comfortable their rain pants
are. We said it in 2005, and we’ll say it in
2006: if the Sopranos moved to Iceland, they
would wear Cintamani.
Cintamani Center for Adventure, Laugavegur
11, 101 Reykjavík, Phone: 562-7000.
SP
OT
thi
s
CINTAMANI