Reykjavík Grapevine - 13.07.2007, Side 23

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The first art museum in Reykjavík, the Einar
Jónsson museum, opened in 1923. The history
of this beautiful building goes back to 1909
when the beloved artist offered to give his
whole collection to the Icelandic people under
the condition that a museum would be built
to house his works. The Icelandic Parliament
originally rejected the idea, but in 1914 the
Parliament contributed one third of the build-
ing costs and the rest was gathered through
private donations.
Einar Jónsson was Iceland’s first sculptor.
He attended the Royal Danish Academy of Fine
Arts in Copenhagen from 1896 to 1899. His
early works were inspired by Icelandic folklore,
but he later rejected naturalistic depiction in
classical art in favour of added religious sym-
bolism following the artist’s spiritual awaken-
ing.
Jónsson’s public monuments can be seen
around the city. Opposite the museum, in front
of Hallgrímskirkja church, stands the monu-
ment of Ingólfur Arnarson, the first Icelandic
settler. In Austurvöllur, you will find his monu-
ment of the independence hero Jón Sigurðs-
son, and in front of the Government Offices
of Iceland stand statues of Iceland’s governor
Hannes Hafsteinn and Danish King Christian
IX, commemorating the Act of Union of 1918
– Iceland’s first step towards becoming an inde-
pendent nation. That same year, Jónsson was
commissioned to build a memorial of Þorfinnur
Karlsefni, which stands along Kelly Drive in the
city of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
The museum houses over 300 art works,
spanning the artist’s 60-year career. It was more
or less designed by the artist himself, with the
assistance of Einar Erlendsson, State Architect
at the time. The building served both as the
artist’s studio and home, which is now a part
of the museum. Several of the artist’s works
are on display in the museum garden, which
is open to the public admission-free. Entrance
through Freyjugata.
The Einar Jónsson Museum
Eiríksgata, 101 Reykjavík
Tel.: 551 3797. www.skulptur.is
Open Tuesday-Sunday 14.00-17.00.
Closed on Mondays.
Admission: 400 ISK.
The Einar
Jónsson
Museum
Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson
Photo by Gulli
One of the benefits of living in the greater-
Reykjavík area is a convenient closeness to
nature. It essentially means that no matter
how involved in business, barhopping or Nu-
Rave culture you get, you are never more than
a stone’s throw away from somewhere pure
and idyllic. Case in point: Friday night, after
work, after dinner, after an hour of TV, it was
still feasible to pack a tent, an instant BBQ
and some lamb chops in my 1992 Subaru for
a quick trip to some of Iceland’s most attrac-
tive sites. Most cities do not allow for this. In
a mere 20 hours (including a full 11 hours of
sleep), my companion and I managed to ex-
perience a vacation’s worth of unique natural
phenomena, postcard-ready scenery and pretty
good waffles.
There are many destinations within reason-
able driving distance of Reykjavík that allow
for quick, satisfying sojourns into nature. On
short-notice, we decided to venture to Arnar-
stapi, a beautiful fishing hamlet on Snæfellsnes.
Within walking distance of one of Iceland’s
most fabled glaciers, Snæfellsjökull, Arnarstapi
often has visitors spouting inane tourist bro-
chure babble in tepid attempts to describe its
extraordinary atmosphere. In true capitalistic
fashion, the locals have caught on and now
offer accommodation, midnight snow-mobile
rides and pylsur for a reasonable price, so
there’s no reason to grow hungry or bored
while there.
Our first stop (save for a police mandated
one, which resulted in a 30.000 ISK speeding
ticket) was at one of Iceland’s many “secret”
natural hot pots. These are essentially undocu-
mented, unmarked and, most importantly (as
in – enter at your own risk!), un-regulated
pools of hot water where a weary traveller
can rest his bones and wash his privates in the
company of wild birds and unkempt nature.
This particular one is located by the stretch of
road between Borgarnes and Arnarstapi and
is probably kept secret for a good reason, as
it comfortably fits no more than three persons
at a time.
An excessive mix of hot water and beer will
slow anyone down, so driving became less of
an option as the night progressed. Arnarstapi
proved no less of an attraction the day after;
following a hefty brunch of waffles and but-
tered scones we took a walk around the area.
Arnarstapi offers a plethora of marked hiking
trails of varying lengths, but the nature of
our trip limited our options to its immediate
surroundings. After a few rough encounters
with Arctic Terns, we found ourselves at the
beautiful, semi-natural Arnarstapi harbour and
its surrounding Fulmar-filled cliffs. This is a
place to sit down and gaze at the ocean, after
a while the intense Fulmar whine will fade to
the back of your mind and you will remember
why you leave cities over weekends.
Arnarstapi
Text by Haukur Magnússon
Photo by Julia Staples
Two unique exihbitions:
The Settlement of Iceland
and
Egils saga
Open daily from 10 am to 7 pm
R E S T A U R A N T
Open from 10 am to 9:30 pm
Tel: +354 437 1600
www.landnamssetur.is
A must do
for the visitor...
SetTlement
centre
the
I N B O R G A R N E S