Reykjavík Grapevine - 10.08.2007, Qupperneq 24

30_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 1_007_THEN & NOW REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 1_007_DESTINATION_31
For all its ambitions, Reykjavík barely qualifies
as a city proper. And this is a good thing, as
cities are often cold, grey structures that don’t
allow for much adventurousness aside from
staying out late at some dirty bar or other. While
Reykjavík has its fair share of seedy dives, it also
offers a comforting closeness to nature and
this is why I guess so many of us are taken by
it. Drinking one’s sense away to a soundtrack
of disinterested dance beats amongst a crowd
of fashionable strangers can be fun, but it ulti-
mately leaves you empty and unsatisfied. This is
where places like Öskjuhlíð come in handy, es-
pecially if your budget and schedule don’t allow
for weeklong jeep trips into the highlands.
Marked by hills, trees and the lumbering
presence of former PM Davíð Oddsson’s me-
morial Perlan, Öskjuhlíð is a Reykjavík haven, as
locals have known for decades. It is essentially a
part of downtown Reykjavík, but the lay of the
land provides ample opportunities to forget all
about the heavy traffic, gas stations and subpar
bistro bars found past the hill – the only constant
reminder of civilization being the private planes
that fly over at an alarming rate. A comfort-
able fifteen-minute walking distance from 101
Reykjavík means that it’s easily accessible and as
such a great location for spur-of-the-moment
picnics and shorter expeditions. If you get tired
or wet, you can always call a cab to take you
home.
For the uninitiated, Öskjuhlíð is mainly
famous for its reputation as Reykjavík’s gay
cruising spot, and for its burgeoning aban-
doned-rabbit population. The cruising appeal is
understandable, as the woods and their various
pathways provide ample opportunity for privacy
and mano a mano snog-sessions. It’s also true
that you will find some of Iceland’s friendliest
rabbits cavorting in Öskjuhlíð, and if you don’t
come off too eager, they will lounge around
and frolic for your viewing pleasures.
Then there’s the added attraction of close-by
Nauthólsvík and its fake beach of yellow sand.
It’s there, and it’s fun.
And how does a typical trip to Öskjuhlíð
go? For instance, you could follow this Grape-
vine staffer’s lead (or not) and purchase an
instant BBQ at Bónus and some ready made
fish-courses from the excellent Fylgifiskar on
Skólavörðustígur. Fill a backpack with other
necessities of choice (mine were plates, glasses
and some champagne) and follow your feet
to the shiny globe on top of Öskjuhlíð. Follow
paths, get lost (it’s easy if you set your mind to
it), chat with the rabbits and have them lead
you to a suitable place to set down your mat
and feast. Carefully avoid starting forest fires,
pack up your trash before you leave, take walks,
enjoy good conversation and greet passers-by
with sunny smiles.
You will enjoy this, unless your soul is shriv-
elled and dead.
Escaping 101
Text by Haukur Magnússon
Photo by Gulli
Two unique exihbitions:
The Settlement of Iceland
and
Egils saga
Open daily from 10 am to 7 pm
R E S T A U R A N T
Open from 10 am to 9:30 pm
Tel: +354 437 1600
www.landnamssetur.is
A must do
for the visitor...
SetTlement
centre
the
I N B O R G A R N E S
In 1949, on Austurvöllur, Icelandic Communists rioted against Iceland’s entry into NATO. Today, the square is at most a battlefield for local bums.