Reykjavík Grapevine - 24.08.2007, Side 16

I have always maintained that being
a black sheep is not at all as un-
bearable as people claim. It even
appears to be coming into fashion
these days, you know, this sense of
being special and unlike others… I
wouldn’t envy salespeople involved
in the hospitality industry when such
an individual arrives in their country.
His determination to bring home an
unusual, unconventional piece of
that land knows no borders so he is
unlikely to stroll the main shopping
destinations with a tourist booklet
stuck with advertisement as an ulti-
mate guide. Her rush for something
special will bring her anywhere from
antique stores to flea markets, from
boutiques to kiosks… You know, this
seeking mind always on the run…
You can be such one in Reykjavík
and no one will call you a freak: the
city is known and appreciated for its
air of liberalism. If you are the one,
your place is then Skólavörðurstígur
running up to Hallgrímskirkja with all
its cute art galleries and little bou-
tiques. Those in search of some hot
specialty will definitely appreciate the
Reykjavík prison, likely to be mixed
with a medieval castle, or the old-
est bakery in Reykjavík situated just
moments away from the street. As
for those little memories known as
souvenirs in the English language,
it’s only your imagination and/or the
bank account balance that may limit
your choice. A cute suggestion for
those in love with art and painting
may be rubber stamps with jólas-
veinar – Icelandic Santa Clauses – on
them. Christmas is much closer than
many think, and such a gift would
suit all those who still remain children
both in terms of age and soul.
Or why wouldn’t you try bring-
ing home a piece of Icelandic pho-
tography? Sometimes it seems that
Icelanders are born with a camera
in hands, and I have personally
observed countless photographers
wandering around 101 in search for
curious shots during the summer. It’s
easy to be a photo artist in this coun-
try even with compact camera and
limited photography skills, since the
Mother Nature itself frequently of-
fers you perfect angles. Those photo
books that you find in bookstores,
or independent photos available on
display in Skólavörðurstígur galler-
ies, capture imagination instantly
and can be yet another idea for a
cute souvenir or even a wedding
present.
Others with relatively unlimited
budget and an eye for expensive
trinkets can be inspired by jewel-
lery with engraved runic letters on
them. People still believe in the magic
power of Icelandic runes, and it can
be easy to convince everyone that
this little engraved ring you never
part with has brought your business
success to you. Why do it? Just for
fun, huh?
Being a black sheep is not the
worst thing one can undergo in his or
her life, indeed. Pretending to be the
one is fun and can do your creativity
skills a good service. Just keep your
eyes wide open, and remember that
Reykjavík is the city where you can
be special – and be appreciated.
Special Souvenirs
RVK_GV_INFO_SOUVENIRS_B11B10_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 13_007_REVIEWS/FOOD
“Who decided that we should take these natural things that
come out of the ground and put them in a big pot and heat
them up?” said one of the owners of Ambrosia, Iceland’s first
raw-food restaurant, on a recent visit from the Grapevine.
I had just taken a bite of my raw vegan burger and pro-
ceeded to raise my eyebrows and shake my head as if to say,
“I don’t know.” The raw burger, my host proceeded to tell me,
is a fascinating concoction, made from a variety of nuts and
dried chopped vegetables, not cooked, but dried in an herb
drier so as not to exceed the 45 degree Celsius “raw limit.”
Heat above 45°C, according to those who subscribe to the raw
philosophy, destroys enzymes and other important nutrients
in food.
The whole production was rather mushy, which is not
surprising considering that it was, well, raw, and the bread
had a wet-paper quality. The burger was quite good, yet it
stood as little competition to even a standard veggie burger.
When it comes to eating raw, I think the mindset is half the
enjoyment.
The second part of our meal, the dish of the day, was an
avocado filled with a sort of vegetable teriyaki, consisting of
green bell pepper, onion, pine nuts and a sweet peanut sauce,
and was entirely delicious. For dessert we enjoyed a toffee-like
chocolate cake made from dates and cocoa powder, and a Blue
Sunset fruit smoothie, with pineapple, mango and blueber-
ries. The cake was the best vegan dessert I have ever tasted,
while the smoothie, devoid of any milk or soy products, had a
concentrated and intense flavour, something that might take
some time getting used to.
Although there are inconsistencies between the sensational-
ist claims of many raw-enthusiasts and the assertions of western
scientists and health officials, studies have conclusively shown
that eating raw fruits and vegetables, although perhaps not
exclusively, does have health and cancer-preventing benefits.
Certainly it leaves you feeling good, if hungry within a few
hours. Obviously enough, on an exclusively raw diet, protein
and calorie intake can become an issue. Cows, for example,
are always eating.
The meal left us adequately filled yet feeling quite light.
Everything is good in moderation, and as good food is good
food, fresh fruits and vegetables speak pretty much for them-
selves. VÞ
Ambrosia
Ingólfstræti 8, 105 Reykjavík,
Having never heard of the Lobster Ship before, I didn’t quite
know what to expect, but with a name like that, I assumed it
was a seafood restaurant. I soon found out the cabdriver had
never heard of it either, but armed with the knowledge it was
located by the old harbour, the boat was easy enough to find.
As my girlfriend and I walked up the ramp we couldn’t help
feeling we were about to embark on a journey.
After a tour of the boat, which was surprisingly large,
consisting of three decks, two for dining and one lounge,
we headed up to the top deck again. We took our seats at a
cosy, candlelit table and were joined by our Danish tour-guide,
manager and head-chef, Stig. Looking through the menu we
noticed something was missing, there were no descriptions
to be found next to any of the courses. This, Stig explained,
served the purpose of flexibility. Instead of being imprisoned
by the fixed menu description, it gives him the freedom to
explore new and exciting things with every course he makes.
From the way he talked about food and its preparation, it was
easy to detect his genuine passion for preparing a good meal.
Sensing our hunger and desire for a tasty dinner, Stig took
away our menus and, with our consent, took it upon himself
to decide what we should have.
As a starter our tentative waiter brought out traditional
lobster soup (ISK 1350). The soup came with two large Icelan-
dic lobster tails, garnished with garlic. The soup was without
hesitation one of the best lobster soups either of us had tasted.
Not too salty nor too creamy, but just right.
As a main course we were served a wonderful mixture of
three courses, which consisted of grilled salmon, fried catfish
and grilled halibut, served with vegetables and shellfish risotto
and a truly savoury wine sauce (ISK 2850–3400). Along with a
glass of white wine this made for a most pleasurable dinner,
the catfish being my favourite.
After a short walk outside on the aft deck, catching some
salty sea air, we returned to our tables to find a beautiful des-
sert waiting for us. The combination of melon, passion fruit
and ice cream, was just the cherry on the top this journey of
delight deserved. SH
Lobster Ship
Suðurbugt, by the Old Harbour, tel.: 562 2300
Located in an old wooden house in the centre of town, Einar
Ben is easily one of the most conveniently situated restaurants in
Reykjavík. The house itself is a historical building from the turn
of the 20th century where Einar Benediktsson, one of Iceland’s
national heroes and poets once operated a law firm and later
established Iceland’s first newspaper. The respectable décor,
influenced by Iceland’s national colours, reflects the historical
significance of the house and installs a sense of occasion upon
entry. The interior is spacious and despite always being busy,
the place rarely feels crowded.
While Einar Ben takes great pride in using only Icelandic
ingredients in all its dishes to ensure freshness and quality, the
decision is obviously in line with the national theme of the
place. A new menu offers adventurous combinations, with
Icelandic herbs often taking a prominent place in the creation.
The house wine list is extensive and a wide variety of monthly
selections are available as well. It was also pleasant to see that
the ecological wines are becoming a permanent selection at
the city’s restaurants.
We opted for the chef’s pride, a four-dish menu selected
and prepared by the chef, and the sommelier’s choice of ac-
companying wines. For a starter we were served a rich creamy
lobster soup, with an Australian Chardonnay white wine.
The wine was solid if not spectacular, while the soup was a
little too creamy for my taste. For the first entrée, our waiter
brought out a plate of transparent-thin carpaccio, layered with
Parmesan cheese and pepper. A classic and refined dish that
was highlighted by the excellent selection of a Italian Tuscany
red wine, rich in flavour with a hint of chocolate. Score one
for the sommelier.
Our second entrée was Dijon-glazed lamb with basil and
pepper sauce. The loin was perfectly cooked, soft and tender,
but the trimmings left a little to be desired. Once again, the
highpoint was the wine selection, a fabulous spicy South-African
red wine with rich fruity taste. Score two for the sommelier.
For desert, we were presented with a delicious chocolate cake,
accompanied by a nice glass of port wine.
A word must be reserved for the excellent service we were
afforded at Einar Ben, especially the wine selections, which
brought out the best in every dish. SBB
Einar Ben
Veltusund 1, 101 Reykjavík, tel.: 511 5090
Reviews by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson, Sverrir Hjálmarsson and Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Photos by Leó Stefánsson and Skari
Text by Alena Krasovskaya Photo by Skari
Happy Hour
7 days a week from 17:00 – 20:00
Pósthússtræti 2, 101 Reykjavik – ICELAND / +354 599 1000 www.saltrestaurant.is