Reykjavík Grapevine - 13.04.2007, Blaðsíða 22

_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 04_007_TRAVEL/DAY TRIPS
Distance from Reykjavík ca. 120 km
Only a few minutes by car east of Reykholt
are two of the country’s more spectacular wa-
terfalls, Barnafoss (Children’s Waterfall) and
Hraunfossar (Lava Waterfalls). In 1987, the
two waterfalls and the surrounding area were
selected as a Natural Monument because of
the outstanding beauty one immediately wit-
nesses on arrival at the site.
Hraunfossar waterfalls are in fact numer-
ous small waterfalls stretching over an area
that is hundreds of metres wide where small
rivulets emerge from beneath the lava and fall
into the river Hvítá. A more picturesque phe-
nomenon is hard to find.
A good hiking trail leads from Hraunfos-
sar up to Barnafoss, located only 300 metres
away. Barnafoss, drawing its name from an
old folktale about two children that acci-
dentally fell in the waterfall and drowned, is
unique in a different way. Since ancient times,
the forceful river has been wearing down the
lava, creating a narrow gorge and remarkable
rock formations.
You could easily spend many hours walk-
ing around the area and enjoying the majestic
scenery. If you still have the time and energy
for some more adventurous explorations, a
short drive east of Barnafoss leads you to Surt-
shellir cave in the Hallmundarhraun lava fields.
The cave is 1970 metres long and among the
deepest in the country.
Barnafoss and Hraunfossar
Distance from Reykjavík ca. 75 km
The west coast of Iceland is rich with history
and interesting sights to explore. The area
isn’t only known for its natural beauty but
also for being the setting for many of the old
Icelandic sagas. A trip to Borgarfjörður and
surrounding area, where parts of one of the
most famous sagas, Egils Saga Skallagrímsso-
nar, takes place, should be an ideal route to
take for those interested in Viking adventures
and Icelandic history.
The scenic landscape increases the plea-
sure of the whole experience when driving
from Reykjavík towards Borgarfjörður and all
the way to Borg á Mýrum, the former home
of Skallagrímur Kveldúlfsson, father of Egill
Skallagrímsson. Skallagrímur was the first
settler at Borg and claimed the whole Bor-
garfjörður district. Snorri Sturluson – a writer,
historian and politician who many believe
was the author of Egils Saga – lived at Borg
for a couple of years in the beginning of the
12th century.
Egill himself, born in 910, settled at Borg
for a short period of time. Since early child-
hood he was a brutal, rebellious berserk. Ac-
cording to the legend, he killed his first en-
emy at the age of seven and later became
one of the country’s greatest Vikings. But
Egill was also a renowned poet and in front
of the small wooden church at Borg stands
a large sculpture named Sonatorrek (Loss
of Sons) made by Ásmundur Sveinsson. This
monument is inspired by the famous poem
that Egill wrote upon learning that his sec-
ond son had drowned. Today, Borg á Mýrum
is a parsonage with a small cemetery and a
church, constructed in 1880.
Borg á Mýrum
Distance from Reykjavík ca. 110 km
No traveller interested in the country’s history
should ignore a trip to Reykholt, a parson-
age in Reykholtsdalur valley that has great
historical significance to the Icelandic popula-
tion. On the way from Borgarnes to Reykholt,
you’ll pass Deildartunguhver thermal spring,
the biggest hot spring in Europe that supplies
both Borgarnes and Akranes with hot water.
Reykholt is mostly famous for being the for-
mer mansion of Snorri Sturluson, a highly re-
spected and influential politician and histori-
an as well as a widely acclaimed author. Born
in 1179, Snorri settled in Reykholt in 1206
and lived there until he was assassinated in
1241 for betraying Hákon, the king of Nor-
way. During his years in Reykholt he wrote
some of Iceland’s most renowned literature,
like Heimskringla, the history of the Kings of
Norway, and the Poetic Snorra-Edda. Both
Heimskringla and Snorra-Edda have been
translated into numerous languages and are
still read by children and adults for both the
pleasure and education.
The main attraction for visitors is Snor-
rastofa, a cultural and conference centre ded-
icated to Snorri and his legacy that also serves
as a research centre for medieval studies.
Snorrastofa houses a permanent exhibition
on Snorri’s life and the history of Reykholt
and Borgarfjörður as well as an impressive
library.
Outside the building is a small bathing
pool, Snorralaug (Snorri’s Pool), preserved
since the time Reykholt was the home of
Snorri. The pool is geothermally heated and
has been listed since 1817.
Since the 10th century there has been a
church in Reykholt and today there are two.
A wooden church built in 1886 and a new
one, constructed between 1988 and 1996.
Reykholt
Distance from Reykjavík ca. 75 km
The small town Borgarnes is located at the
shore of Borgarfjörður and is the service and
trade centre for the neighbouring area.
In 2006, Borgarnes added a significant
feature to its historical importance when the
Settlement Centre of Iceland was opened
to the public. Housed in the town’s oldest
building, the Centre is, as the name sug-
gests, dedicated to the settlement of the
country over a thousand years ago.
There are two permanent exhibitions
presented in the museum all year round. The
main floor houses the exhibition The Settle-
ment of Iceland, which shows the birth of
the nation in detail. By using various forms of
multimedia, models and artefacts, the exhi-
bition manages to recreate the old communi-
ty and offers an adventurous insight into the
way society developed from the early settlers
to the establishment of Alþingi. In the base-
ment of the centre is an innovative exhibi-
tion dedicated to Egill Skallagrímsson, which
retells the story of his life and legacy in a very
amusing way. Audio guides for both exhibi-
tions are available in different languages.
During the summer months, the Settle-
ment Centre will organize guided tours
around the Borgarnes area, visiting many of
the places mentioned in Egils Saga. Such a
tour should be an even greater experience
for those now addicted to the Icelandic he-
roes. Adding to all this is the pleasure of din-
ing at the fine restaurant located next to the
Settlement Centre, where guests can enjoy
traditional Icelandic dishes before continuing
to the next destination.
Before leaving Borgarnes, there is one
more place that deserves to be visited: the
botanic public park Skallagrímsgarður, where
Skallagrímur himself was laid to rest.
Borgarnes
A Day Trip to Borgarfjörður
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Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photos by Gúndi
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