Reykjavík Grapevine - 29.06.2007, Síða 16

Skyr (pronounced ‘skeer’) is a traditional Icelandic dairy product made from
pasteurised skim milk without omitting certain kinds of milk cultures and
bacteria. The milk is generally heated to 90–100° C, and after a while a
coagulating called rennet (which actually comes from enzymes in the cow’s
stomach) is added to thicken the solution. The whey is then separated from
the skyr through a straining fabric. The remainder from this process is called
‘mysa,’ which is also sold in stores as a popular drink. Skyr is often referred
to as a kind of yoghurt with a much thicker consistency. However, because
it tends to have similar bacteria types, unflavoured skyr actually has a taste
similar to fresh cheese.
There are several companies that manufacture skyr: MS, KEA, and
Húsavíkur jógúrt. Most manufacturers make skyr with added ingredients
and fruit flavours. Each company has its own take on the dairy product,
including the Skyr.is ‘Drykkur’ (or ‘Drink’), a kind of ‘floating skyr’ that is
saturated with milk in order to make it drinkable.
It’s no wonder that skyr is a popular breakfast food for Icelanders, as it
is loaded with protein, calcium and B-vitamins. However, be warned that
even though it is touted as healthy and non-fat, many of the flavoured skyr
products are loaded with artificial flavouring and sugar. To go with the more
natural Skyr products, look for brands that have ‘án sykurs’ (without sugar)
or ‘án sætuefna’ (without artificial sweeteners) printed on the label.
Taking advantage of 10-11’s ‘Skyr Bar’ for 418 ISK is an excellent in-
troduction to the Icelandic dairy food. On top of offering 9 different types
of skyr and yoghurt, the bars also boast 3 different kinds of fruit and 6
different types of cereal toppings. Skyr and granola or muesli is also very
popular.
Skyr: A Beginner’s Guide
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On the inlet at Hlið lies one of Reykjavík’s best kept dining
secrets. In what also has to be the best view from any dining
room window in the capital area, homemade authentic Thai
cuisine is served at the Home Restaurant and Spa. After running
various Asian restaurants and stores, including Reykjavík’s first
Asian take away in the late 80s, Bogi and his wife Nok – who
is originally from Thailand – opened the Thai restaurant in their
home at Hlið in 2004.
For 5,500 ISK, diners are served a Thai Feast consisting
of Tom Yum Ka Gung, a delicious coconut citrus soup with
mushrooms and black tiger prawns; Massaman Pork Curry
and Ginger Chicken served with jasmine rice and salad; and
Pad Thai. We were also offered an equally tasty but off-the
menu dish consisting of shrimps, tomato and Asian greens in
oyster sauce. As you would expect from the price, the food is
the freshest and of the highest quality that you’ll find in any
Thai restaurant in Reykjavík. There is one catch though – the
restaurant only serves groups of six or more.
Although the menu is set, Nok and Bogi are more than
happy to accommodate any dietary requirements their diners
may have – just let them know in advance. And although
they specialise in Thai food, they can also prepare traditional
Icelandic cuisine.
For dessert, caramel cake and creme puffs were served with
coffee. We were also invited to try some of the exotic fruit sitting
on the decorative dishes on the family dining table where we
were seated. While Bogi and Nok made us feel right at home
with their friendliness and personal service, they normally let
guests dine alone. With such delicious offerings and a unique
dining experience, you won’t be surprised to hear that they
are booked out until mid-September.
But don’t just come here for the food. In a small building
next to the home restaurant is the soon to be opened Thai spa.
Here you can relax in the outdoor saltwater spa while listening
to the waves crashing on the rocks below before inhaling the
scents of lemon grass, tamarind and ginger in the detoxing
herbal sauna. Thai aromatherapy and herbal massage will also
be available.
Home Restaurant
and Spa
Hlið, 225 Álftanes, tel: 565 2723 / 898 6440
Café Roma is proof of the theory that the further you stray
from the city centre, the fewer English inscriptions you will
find. In that respect this café has all the attitude of a place that
is tucked away in Breiðholt, when in reality it’s just a stone’s
throw from the Hlemmur bus station. They don’t cater much
to the tourists, Café Roma, and I suspect that it’s because
they’d have to hike up the prices on their deals until the local
clientele were forced to find another place with good, cheap
deli-style sandwiches and breads.
Roma is an all-purpose store–bakery–café combination.
On the left side of the shop there are all sorts of store made
breads selling for 300 ISK by the loaf or 180 ISK for a half-loaf.
In a glass case are tidy pastries (kleina bread and chocolate
covered kleina bread are 155 ISK to go) doughnuts and crois-
sants. The store portion of the restaurant contains refrigerators
with your basics: ham, milk, cheese, and soft drinks. There is
also a surprising assembly of inexpensive soy products as well.
The coffee menu at Roma is cheap and diverse, with a wide
selection of Roma tea for 245 ISK a cup, espresso for 230 ISK
and Hot Chocolate w/ cream for 330 ISK. To make any drink
soy it is only 30 ISK, and to add syrup it is 20 ISK. The café also
features large paintings of a wide-eyed blonde with greeting
card versions of the paintings available at 250 ISK.
My friend and I both ordered the hádegistilboð, or “lunch
offer,” which included the soup of the day with a half-panini
and a cup of coffee for an astoundingly cheap 880 ISK. The meal
included a first round of thick tomato soup in a sizable bowl
with thick slices of fresh whole oat bread. The second course
was a grilled “chicken-ham” (thin slices of chicken) panini with
mozzarella, green pepper, and mustard on a crunchy French
roll. Though the sandwich appeared thin and the ingredients
sparse, it was flavourful and surprisingly filling.
I like Café Roma because it is one of the few places outside
of the bustling main shopping area that has the feel of a neigh-
bourhood café. Oh, and the brave idea of serving considerable
portions for cheap doesn’t exactly hurt them either.
Café Roma
Laugavegur 118 (Entrance from Rauðarárstígur),
101 Reykjavík, tel.: 562 0020
Victor is one of the many places in Reykjavík that try to main-
tain balance on the fine line between being a restaurant and
a bar. Understandably, this can be a difficult line to tread
since the bar format does not necessarily make for a classy
restaurant. In Victor’s case, this situation is greatly improved
by the fabulous location. Situated right by Ingólfstorg Square,
the large windows offer a good view of the surroundings.
There is something inherently good about sitting inside Victor
and watching the skaters perform tricks on the square. In the
summertime, the tables on the sidewalk also offer a perfect
place to enjoy the sun with a cold beer, or another beverage
of your choosing.
But lets try to focus on the food for a moment and forget
about the fabulous location. Victor offers a pretty good selection
of the more or less standard lunch menu, rich in pasta dishes,
various sandwiches (the Club FM sandwich is a mini-legend
in this town), hamburgers and other small dishes. Starters are
typically priced around 1000 ISK, while the sandwiches and
burgers top out around 1500 ISK, freedom fries included.
Victor also offers a more elaborate ‘meat and fish’ menu,
with prices ranging from 2-3000 typically, which is a little high
in my opinion, compared to other similar places in the near
vicinity, although some of the selection sounded positively
exciting. My companion opted for the Wiener schnitzel, which
I understand is a popular dish with the over 70 crowd. The
dish was served without the obligatory slice of lemon, a crime
punishable by death in some countries, in particular Austria.
After this mistake had been corrected, my companion readily
admitted that the dish was good.
Myself, I opted for the BBQ spare-ribs. I think I made a wise
choice; the ribs were good, although if I had to do it again, I
would probably order something a little less messy. The soup
of the day was included with both dishes, but I think the less
is said about that, the better.
It is worth pointing out that Victor offers what they call
‘the tourist menu,’ which a reasonably priced three course
meal inspired by Icelandic cuisine, featuring the all-Icelandic
fish stew among other dishes. That is a pretty sweet deal for
3,200 ISK.
Café Victor
Hafnarstræti 1-3, 101 Reykjavík, tel.: 561 9555
Reviewed by Zoë Robert Reviewed by Chandler Fredrick Reviewed by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson
Text by Chandler Fredrick
Happy Hour
7 days a week from 17:00 – 20:00
Pósthússtræti 2, 101 Reykjavik – ICELAND / +354 599 1000 www.saltrestaurant.is