Reykjavík Grapevine - 06.06.2008, Page 16

16 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 07 2008 | Feature
Summer is on – again, which means the streets of Reyk-
javík are crowded with tourists – again. Like an invading
army, they more or less take over the city, making it dif-
ficult for us ordinary folks to find a seat at a restaurant.
Not that I am complaining, my livelihood more or less
depends on you nice folks from... well, wherever you may
come from.
Nonetheless, I want to offer you tourists a rare
glimpse at the real Reykjavík. Tourist guide books will
only get you so far, and most will only direct you to the
most popular tourist attractions. We locals tend to stay
away from those places. Here’s what we do instead, that
is, when we are not working or doing mundane stuff, like
the dishes and the laundry. Basically then, this is how we
burn the weekend. Try out our insider tips. Any combina-
tion of these is acceptable. This is your opportunity to
experience the city like us. Not like them.
1 WEAR NORMAL CLOTHES This is the most important step you can take to
gain access to the real Reykjavík experience. 99% of the
time it is possible to spot tourists in Reykjavík from miles
away. I even play a game with my friends where we guess
people’s nationality based on their attire. Americans are
usually easiest to spot. Followed by Germans and the
French. Here is a little hint: you don’t need a bright or-
ange parka or hiking boots to traverse Reykjavík. Dress
like a tourist and you are automatically excluded. Just
dress like normal folks.
2 VISIT THE FLEA MARKET The best flea market in Reykjavík is Kolaportið by
the Reykjavík harbour. We tend to go there on weekends
to stock up on second hand books, wholesale candy,
dried fish and used DVDs. There is a lot of crap avail-
able there, but the food corner is excellent. Many small
producers, both fish, meat and pastry, sell their products
in Kolaportið, and there is no better place for a taste of
traditional local cuisine. If you find yourself craving bo-
vine colustrum, this is absolutely the place to go.
3 GO FOR A SWIM We consider swimming pools to be a birthright.
Vesturbæjarlaug swimming pool is an ideal destination
for a sunny afternoon. It is the second oldest swimming
pool in Reykjavík, and the oldest one outdoors. There are
two very good reasons to visit. The sauna, and the hot
tub conversation, where the locals discuss current affairs
and exchange gossip. If you have any questions, and I
mean any questions, the know-it-alls in the hot tub have
the answer. They might not agree on one specific answer,
but you’ll get answers nonetheless.
4 HANG OUT AT A CAFÉ ALL-DAY One of our favourite pastimes is all-day café hang-
out. Saturdays are really the best days for this activity.
Here’s what you do. Start with a brunch around 11, drink
some coffee, read some magazines and newspapers.
Early afternoon, start out with beers, but move slowly. If
you are lucky there might be a match on TV. Steadily in-
crease the level of alcohol consumption as the day goes
on. Dance on the tables around midnight. Failsafe fun.
5 ENJOY THE SUN IN AUSTURVÖLLUR If the sun is out, which admittedly does not happen
all that often around these parts, we head for Austurvöl-
lur, a small patch of grass outside of the Parliamentary
building. On a nice day you won’t be able to see the grass,
just people enjoying the sun. It is customary bring a six-
pack, and conveniently the alcohol store is right next to
Austurvöllur. Not a bad way to spend the day.
6 BARS AFTER MIDNIGHT In most of the civilized world, bar patrons start to
plan their departure around midnight. We choose to do it
differently. Around midnight, we start to plan our depar-
ture – from home and to the bar. Many visitors make the
mistake of going out for a nice dinner, hitting a few bars
and returning home around or after midnight, just when
things are starting to heat up. Here’s a better idea, go out
for a nice dinner, go back for a nap, go out around mid-
night and stay as long as it takes. You cannot say you have
truly experienced Iceland until you have seen us stum-
bling out of a bar at 7 a.m., looking for an after-party.
7 SPEND AN EVENING AT THE PARK The park known as Miklatún just off Reykjavík cen-
tre is where we go for some light exercise in the evening.
Usually you’ll be able to crash a football game (always
pick the losing side, that way you can’t be blamed for
anything), get in on the volley ball action or lace up the
hightops for some streetball action. If you prefer a less ac-
tive mode of exercise, try your hand with the old-timers
who practice their skills with the fly-rods fishing poles, or
try the frisbee-golf.
8 SEE A CONCERT Although the literature might suggest otherwise,
there is more to Icelandic music than Björk and Sigur
Rós. Some of it is even pretty good. Scour the Grapevine
music listings and check out the usual suspects when it
comes to live music, Organ, Nasa or Café Amsterdam to
name a few. Catch one of the local acts, who knows, you
just might be listening to the next big thing.
9 GALLERY OPENINGS We love to attend gallery and exhibition openings.
Mostly because there is usually free white wine involved.
Just find one and step right in, no one ever bothers with
the invite. Make sure you audibly make a few vague com-
ments about the artist or his work, but don’t buy the art-
work. As a rule, we never buy the artwork.
10 CATCH A GAME It is quite possible that you have seen better
football played in your home country, or at least on TV.
But you have never witnessed 22 men who so heroically
battle the forces of nature on a football pitch. Icelandic
football is very often a game where the team that attacks
with the wind to its back for a longer period comes out
on top. Every player knows how to bend it like Beckham.
Aim 45°off-target and let the wind take care of the rest.
Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson
Illustration by Bobby Breiðholt
Reykjavík
– The Insiders Guide
10 Things That Will Make You Feel Like a Reykjavík Resident