Reykjavík Grapevine - 02.07.2010, Side 17

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16
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 09 — 2010
Special | Best Of Reykjavík
The Icelandic pylsa: possibly the only
hot dog with the ability to unite an en-
tire nation, for better or for worse. And
Bæjarins beztu pylsur certainly doesn't
have any shortcomings when it comes
to providing the populous with deli-
cious, mouth-watering pylsur.
The stand was first set up in 1937
on Austurstræti. Yet it wasn't until the
60s that it moved to Tryggvagata where
it stands strong today, catching all the
hungry eyes of the wandering tour-
ists during the day and the ravenous
mouths of the stumbling slurring folk
throughout the night.
The town’s best hot dog?
The hot dog stand, appropriately
named (“The Town's Best Hot Dog”),
has been doing what it does best for
over 70 years. It's even gained interna-
tional attention. In 2006, the Guardian
confirmed that it's not just the best in
Reykjavík, but the best in Europe! Yet
despite all this fame and fortune it still
manages to retain its humble, family
routes. Guðrún Kristmundsdóttir, the
current owner of the stand, tells us that
it was her grandfather who first ran the
joint, which was then handed down to
her father, and finally to Guðrún, who
has now been running it for 20 years.
A typical hot dog, or 'ein með öllu'
(“one with everything,” as it is affec-
tionately known by the locals), will
usually be covered in an assortment of
condiments, namely ketchup, mustard,
fried onion, raw onion and remoulade.
The contrast between the ambrosially
sweet remoulade and the slightly bit-
ter mustard, finalised by the crunch
of the cronions, may just be what gets
the joint through its thousands a day.
However, unfortunately there is no veg-
etarian option, but most people should
probably know what they're getting
themselves into when joining a queue
for a hot dog stand.
One of Bill Clinton’s mistakes
Indeed, rain, snow or shine, there is
always a queue. Even if you're freez-
ing your ass off in sub-zero tempera-
tures, it's most definitely worth the
wait. But don't be fooled by the length
as the queues move swiftly and one is
often left feeling surprised that put-
ting five different condiments on a hot
dog could take just under a second. A
fact many people may have previously
found inhumanly possible.
Not only has it beckoned almost
every Icelander to its feet, Bæjarins
beztu also boasts a culture of celebrity
customers visiting the island. The most
notable appearance being Bill Clinton
foolishly going for the simple hot dog
and mustard. “All the visiting bands live
on my hot dogs”, Guðrún tells us, “from
Ella Fitzgerald to Metallica frontman
James Hetfield, to name but a few.”
But what draws these A-listers to a
meagre hot dog stand? “One thing that
is crucial for my business is that every-
one gets their privacy in the queue,” ex-
plains Guðrún. “But they have to queue
just like every other person. I often re-
ceive questions about celebrities want-
ing special treatment and I always say
no.”
Danes will want their pigdog
Apart from the speedy service, cheap
prices, and consistently good hot dogs,
it can be hard to place a finger on what
separates this stand from the rest. The
ingredients used are the same as any
other vendor, but some say it's the
layering of the sauce that conquers
all others. The trick is putting the re-
moulade on top as opposed to on the
bottom, a mistake that’s often made
by pylsa-amateurs. But whatever it is,
each visit is guaranteed to leave you
walking away nodding your head and
rubbing your belly in satisfaction.
Another good, stable sign for it be-
ing the best is that so far there have
been no incidents of people spitting
food out in disgust. “No, the only com-
plaints I get are from Danish people.
They can always taste the lamb, which
they aren't used to,” says Guðrún “But
once they get over it they seem to enjoy
it!”
A hot dog may not sound like tra-
ditional Icelandic cuisine, but if you
haven't tried one of Bæjarins Bestu
then you should flee the country in
shame. Unless you're vegetarian of
course, then I recommend just the
bread with the sauces. On top of all
that, a hot dog costs a mere 280 ISK, so
it’s one of the few places which won't
leave you broke, that is, if you're not al-
ready.
Bæjarins Beztu, Seriously
The Best Goddamn Dog In Town!
Bæjarins Beztu
Hafnarstræti 17, 101
ALExANDRA yOUNG
JULIA STAPLES
Special | Best Of Reykjavík
Thirty years ago in Reykjavík there were
very few restaurants, much less ones
serving up authentic fare from for-
eign lands. In 1979, Hornið opened its
doors on Hafnarstræti as the first res-
taurant to serve up real Italian cuisine
and pizzas. They instantly became a hit
amongst the locals and have remained
an institution of fine dining in the city
throughout the years. Still serving up
classic Italian dishes, their patrons are
now equal parts local and foreign, and
rarely have a quiet night all year.
Asking how they have managed to
be so consistently great, their owner
Jakob told us that they haven’t changed
their menu much over the course of the
years, except adding a few new items
and adding new twists to their style.
“If you are going to open a steakhouse
or a pizza place in Iceland, you have to
stay true to your original idea,” he tells
us. “Now it’s a mix of Italian and Nordic
dishes.” Adding to their wide array of
delicious pizzas and pastas they have
mixed in traditional fish and lamb dish-
es as new specialties. Jakob says his
personal favourite is the fish soup.
Italy On Ice
Hornið, Reykjavík‘s oldest Italian restaurant, is a 101 institution
Hornið
Hafnarstræti 15, 101
REBECCA LOUDER
GAS