Reykjavík Grapevine - 24.09.2010, Qupperneq 35

21
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 15 — 2010
Travel | Rowing
Reykjavík Coastal Rowing Adventures offers coastal
rowing eco-tours in the Reykjavík vicinity all winter.
For more information contact
rowing.in.iceland@gmail.com or + 354 7778844
Driving down to Ægisíða to meet our guide, Skúli
Guðbjarnarson, I had a feeling that my eager team
of rowers and I were in for something special. The
autumn sun hung low in the evening sky, throw-
ing its pale glow over the bay. Surveying our sturdy
Faroese fishing boat, all agreed it looked a reliable
vessel for our evening’s trip, particularly in the calm
conditions that stretched out before us.
Skúli duly arrived complete with all the neces-
saries: safety gear, waders, picnic basket (contents
to be revealed later), as well as complete repertoire
of local history, wildlife facts and the obligatory
seaman’s story or two. As we set off, any doubts
about rowing ability were allayed, as Skúli was very
much on hand to advise and take over as and when
our initial enthusiasm began to wane and our tri-
ceps began to wonder what the hell was going on.
Being out on the water brought a very different per-
spective to Reykjavík. Out of the hustle and bustle
of downtown, the gentle giant, Mt Esja, almost
hugged the city, sheltering it from the brunt of the
cold easterlies. The majestic Snæfellsjökull was vis-
ible to the north and Bláfjöll, the Blue Mountains,
stretched out to the south-east.
Being on the water also brought a very differ-
ent perspective to the word hunger. It wasn't long
before the sea air brought a Neanderthal-esque
grumble to my stomach that needed attention, and
fast. The plan? Crabs! The process of hauling in
Skúli´s mid-ocean crab trap provided much giggles
and excitement, especially when we discovered five
wonderful examples that would become dinner. Af-
ter a time musing over where we would shore up
and cook the little critters, we decided upon an
isolated skerry of rocks, home to a gaggle of arctic
geese and a few suspicious looking puffins.
With the sun beginning its descent on the ho-
rizon, we sat down to enjoy what had to be in my
top five list of 'most delicious meals in random lo-
cations, ever'. As our crabs met their sad end in a
large pot of boiling water, we warmed our hands
and bellies with a hearty, steaming barley soup,
mopped up with some crusty bread. All the while
Skúli entertained us with stories about Álftanes,
Viking settlers, growing up on Viðey and attempts
to translate untranslatable wildlife names. However,
all talk stopped as soon as the crabs were ready
to serve, and we descended like a pack of hungry
seagulls on our gloriously tasty victims. Washing it
down with a refreshing French chardonnay added
a further touch of “je ne sais quoi” to our already
exotic location.
However, our delightful pit-stop had made
contemplating the row back a harrowing one for
our lazy legs and aching arms. Again we needn’t
have worried. The trusty Skúli was ten steps ahead
and had brought an outboard motor for the home
stretch. Sitting back to take in the glorious explo-
sion of pink and orange in the sky around us, the
seabirds trailing us in the freezing air and the lap of
the darkening ocean against the boat, time seemed
to stand still. Venus twinkled above our heads in the
glow of a green solar splash that appeared from no-
where, and which melted away almost as soon into
the haze of city lights. As we reached shore, the last
orange flare of day faded over the horizon and we
gathered ourselves for home, tired and a little chilly,
but thoroughly pleased with an evening’s adventur-
ing and a job well done.
Vitamin Sea
Rowing the serene coast of Álftanes makes for a breath of fresh air
Words
Eimear Fitzgerald
Photography
Hvalreki
Always best price online.
Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations.
www.airiceland.is
websales@airiceland.is / tel. +354 570 3030 Contact Air Iceland or
travel agent for reservation.
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