Reykjavík Grapevine - 08.10.2010, Side 27

EAT AnD DRInK
Eat Fresh No More
A farewell to Subway
It is a glamorous life, that of a food
reviewer. Sampling some of the greatest
fare this fair city has to offer, dining on
offerings that I might otherwise overlook,
discovering new favourites and new
least-favourites. But sometimes, between
luxurious brunches and exotic curries,
comes the call for something different.
The call to ‘eat fresh,’ if you will.
That call came this past Saturday.
Having just returned from abroad
and faced with bare cupboards and
a cavernous refrigerator, a light bulb
materialized above my head. With a
rumble in my stomach I ventured forth
toward Austurstræti. To Subway.
Alas, much to my great shock and
dismay, the door was bolted shut, the
windows covered over with a brown
packing paper, and where the iconic
yellow and green signage once affixed
itself to the building’s façade there was
only a patch of teal paint alluding to the
poor exterior design choices of landlords
gone by.
The sign on the door spelled out
empty promises of the international sub
shop reopening elsewhere downtown in
the future, but no dates were given, no
locations named. I fear the sign was lying
to me.
The franchise that enjoyed record-
breaking sales figures, according to the
framed certificates of accomplishment
that had so proudly adorned their walls, is
no more. Sure there are a couple of other
franchises in the suburbs, but, to me, they
may as well be in Siberia. It’s the end of
an era.
Other Places to Get a Sandwich:
Te og Kaffi: This chain boasts a selection
of focacce that are tasty on their own but
get amped up a notch after spending
a couple of minutes in the sandwich
press. The star of the show is the grilled
chicken, sun-dried tomato and mozzarella
variety, with bonus sun-dried tomatoes
baked into the bread. Austurstræti 18 (in
Eymundsson)
Kornið: So Kornið has got these
sandwiches in halved focaccia bread that
might just be the best thing ever. Even if
they weren’t stuffed with chicken, bacon,
veggies, cheese, egg, and what-have-you,
they would still be superb simply on
account of this incredibly delicious bread.
It is herbed and slightly oily, but somehow
not too dense for sandwich making (a
very delicate art). So good! Lækjargata 4
Nonnabiti: When a massive serving of
meat, vegetables and sauces in a fluffy
loaf of bread is what you crave then
Nonnabiti has got you covered. The trick
is grilling all the toppings before shoving
them into the roll and dousing it all with
sauce – sauce that will unavoidably settle
to the ass-end of the sandwich as you
eat your way in that direction, making it
seem as though your once solid meal has
morphed into a beverage. The salty pork
in the luxury sandwich is divine at 5am.
Hafnarstræti 9
Catharine Fulton
F D
For your mind, body and soul
honestly proclaim that theirs is the best
pizza I’ve ever tasted. Actually, this fine
publication voted it the best pizza in
Reykjavík not so long ago. The crust is
thin and crisp, but not dry; the sauce is
subtle yet f lavourful; the toppings taste
high quality and there’s just the right
amount of them. Delightful!
Adding to the splendour that is
Gamla Smiðjan, they happen to be just
across the street from a taxi stand. So
when you’ve had your fill of British
folktronica/Danish poptastica/Robyn
you can chow down and quickly head
home or to the after party. I recommend
the pie with chicken, jalapeño’s and
salted peanuts, if that’s your kinda
thing. Pepperoni and cheese will work,
too.
Hotdogs!
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur has been
serving up hot dogs with all the
toppings to the hungry masses and
well-informed tourists (including the
likes of Metallica’s James Hetfield and
phallus aficionado and former P.U.S.A.
Bill Clinton—who doesn’t want to eat
like those guys?) for 73 years. Four
generations, in the same location on
Tryggvagata almost the whole time
and some of the staff have worked
there for over thirty years. And it’s
cheap and open for your convenience
as you stumble out of that awesome/
lack-lustre/so-so showcase of that
British post-rock/Canadian new weird
America/Robyn you’ve been dying to
see. Just 280 ISK!
The pylsa is pretty standard, which
is just right. Run of the mill bun, ample
toppings, steaming hot sausage. The
casing of the sausage pops in my mouth
as I bite into it and the combination
of crunchy and fresh onions and the
darker pylsur mustard add some gentle
bite and complexity to the texture. It’s a
decent snack or meal.
The one lesson I never seem to learn
is that I just don’t like remúlaði. It’s too
mayonnaise-y, too thick, too something
I can never seem to put my finger on
until I’ve downed my pylsa and think to
myself “damn, I wish I hadn’t asked for
remúlaði.” But at the same time I know
that I would be unsatisfied without the
added condiment. It’s a bit of a double-
edged sword, I suppose. I hope to find a
solution some day.
Did I mention it’s cheap?
Noodles!
The Noodle Station (Skólavörðustigur
21A) is in a league of its own.
Aesthetically sparse, but the
noodles boast a punch of simple
and complementary f lavours that
overwhelm the senses. It really is simple,
with only two options on the menu:
chicken or beef. I always go for chicken
and have never been disappointed, but
I hear the beef is great, too. The meat
is seasoned independently of the soup,
but does not compete with the broth or
accoutrements therein; it is tender and
moist to the point of breaking apart
easily and delicately. The soup base is
an authentically spiced broth, with bean
sprouts and noodles intertwined within
it and topped with accents of chilli and
peanuts. And it is served in a deep
noodle bowl, with a metal spoon and a
good pair of sturdy chopsticks. Bonus
points for real f latware and utensils.
The Noodle Station serves noodles
the way noodles should be: f lavourful,
comforting and enjoyable to slurp and
savour. Another sensational bite to get
you through another mayhemic night
of Finnish shoegaze/Armenian string
quartets/Robyn.
Catharine Fulton
We exceed high
expectations
Open for bistro style lunch every day from 11.30–14.00
and dinner wednesday to saturday from 19.00–22.00
Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavik, Tel. 6185071/8939693, www.dillrestaurant.is
Madonna
Ristorante Italiano
6 course
Seafood Lunch Buffet
www.madonna.isMadonna Rauðarárstíg 27 445-9500
Only 2.690 kr
Icelandic seafood soup, seafood
pizza and a variety of fish dishes.
Lunch Buffet 11:30 - 14.30
Reservations 552 5300
info@fishcompany.is - fishcompany.is
Grófartorg - Vesturgata 2a - 101 Reykjavík
New 4 course menu „Around Iceland“
from the CHEF of the YEAR 2010
Gústav Axel Gunnlaugsson