Reykjavík Grapevine - 11.12.2016, Side 18

The R
eykjavík G
rapevine
B
est of R
eykjavík 20
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Icelanders have a bland palate.
They share their Celtic neighbours
in Ireland’s culinary tradition
of boiling everything. The tra-
ditional flavour notes in Iceland
consist of bitter, sour, salted and
smoked. The reason for this was
isolation, lack of trade, and an
abundance of sheep shit and
rotten milk—or maybe flavour
became redundant with every-
one insufflating large amounts
of dry, old tobacco (if you get
offered some here, don’t do it.
The black ooze draining from
your sinuses in the shower will
terrify you the next morning).
With the increase of trade, the
first real addition to the Icelandic
palate was sweet things. To this
day, the dominant characteristic
of anything from mustard to
pickles tends to be sweetness.
Eventually, with more Icelanders
travelling and returning with
tales of this magical sensation
called “flavour,” the demand
for a larger culinary spectrum
grew.
Which brings us to today.
Where can you, traveller or local,
get a restorative and spicy meal
in this one-street town?
Complex and spicy
By far the most impressive and
flavourful restaurant in Reyk-
javík is Austur-India Felagið
(or “The East India Company”).
The owners have been showing
and guiding Icelanders, and now
tourists, through the complex and
spicy world of authentic Indian
cuisine since 1994. Many places
in Iceland start responding to
complaints and criticism by
bending to the Icelandic palate
and “Icelandifying” their menu.
Austur-India Felagið stood their
ground and educated rather
than placated. By doing so, they
won the admiration and love
of an entire population. It’s a
great sit-down dinner after a
particularly cold or windy day.
Affordable options
Another Reykjavík staple is
Noodle Station. Its steamed
windows and billowing clouds
of coriander scent are one of
the perks of a dark and blustery
winter here. It’s not inherently
spicy, but you can ask for extra
spice or add your own flaky chili
sauce until your nose runs, your
tongue throbs and your gums
howl. Its bar-style stool seating
and cheaper prices (for Reykjavík)
attract prudent solo travellers.
If you’re looking for some-
thing quick and portable, the
spiciest option is Ali Baba.
Now before some of you locals
or frequent visitors send me an
angry email—feel free, by the
way—you could also go next
door to Mandi. The premise
of this little piece, though, is
“Best Places For A Spicy Meal,”
and Ali Baba has hotter, more
intense chili sauce on their
shawarma (when you request
it). I will concede, happily, that
Mandi has better falafel, which
can be made spicy, and placate
(yes, twice in one article!) your
hunger and murder-aversion
simultaneously.
Heat junkies
Maybe you want to enjoy the
sun and have a little spicy kick
on the side. Tacobarinn is a
beautiful venue, a glass atrium
split into two levels with plants
and large table seating. They
have a non-traditional Mex-
ican menu that is constantly
changing, sometimes for bet-
ter and sometimes for worse,
but there is always something
for everyone, both vegan and
carnivore. Their black bean
soup and chili sin (without)
carne is always good.
Now, for you heat junkies,
the hottest place in town is
Ban Thai. This place has been
a consistent favourite of locals
and the Grapevine for years.
It’s open for dinner, starting
at 18:00, but also has an affil-
iated take-away place called
Yummi Yummi. Thai land
may be thousands of kilome-
tres away, but these places can,
if you close your eyes, whisk
you from the North Atlantic to
Southeast Asia in a couple of
mouthfuls.
You’ll notice, like my preamble
suggested, “spicy” food is often
a cuisine from other places.
Well, I might have been a little
too harsh about the Icelandic
palate earlier.
There's nothing in icelandic
cuisine that's spicy in the tra-
ditional sense, there are a few
dishes that are very strong. Pu-
trified shark is served in small
chunks, and is quite something
for the senses. The taste is best
described as ammonia-like. If
you can't quite place ammonia,
think "pee smell". Best con-
sumed while drunk. Skata is the
lighter version of this, a white
fish that's also putrified. Best de-
scribed as an aquired taste, skata
is served with a dish of potatoes
and liquified sheep fat. Ask for
availability at Sægreifinn.
SPICY MEALS
Colours Of The World:
Spice Up Your Life
Words YORK UNDERWOOD
Photo ART BICNICK