Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.05.2018, Page 10

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Iceland 2018
10
TRAVEL GUIDE
12 Hours In
Reykjanes
Windswept wonders on the
Reykjavík-adjacent peninsula
Words: John Rogers Photos: Timothée Lambrecq
Reykjanes is the picturesque
peninsula where most visitors
enter Iceland when they land at
Keflavík. However, the majori-
ty of people immediately travel
onwards to Reykjavík, and the
south coast route, unaware that
Reykjanes itself is full of natural
wonders and charming coast-
al towns. Whether you want a
low-hassle road trip, or you’ve
ended up with some time to kill
at the airport, here’s an ideal day
out in Reykjanes.
Lake: Kleifarvatn
Behind the mountains that lie
inland from the coastal road
to Reykjavík is Kleifarvatn: a
large lake that often reflects
the surrounding landscape like
a mirror. There are viewpoints
along the roadside, and sweep-
ing black sand beaches ideal for
a stroll, as well as plenty of dis-
crete hiking trails into the hills.
Site: Seltún
Just past the lake is the Seltún
geothermal hotspot. Right next
to the parking lot are several
large, fiercely bubbling craters
spewing out steam and turn-
ing the earth into a colourful,
mineral-stained canvas. A well-
marked trail leads you over a
zigzagging wooden walkway to
a viewpoint over the whole spec-
tacular area.
Town: Grindavík
The fishing village of Grindavík
is the ideal place to stop for
lunch. There are some options:
Salthúsið is famous for its ba-
calao, Papa’s serves an amaz-
ing fish ‘n’ chips made with the
day’s catch straight from the
harbour, and the Fish House has
a nice pub atmosphere. There’s
a harðfiskur museum, a pool,
and a stone “Viking temple” in
the town centre. If you’ve time,
drive out to the Hópsnesviti
lighthouse to see a trail lined by
rusted shipwrecks.
Site: Reykjanesviti & Gunnuhver
The short version of this trip
involves cutting back inland
past The Blue Lagoon—or, you
can take a longer coastal detour
around the edge of the pen-
insula. It’s worth it: the Reyk-
janesviti lighthouse sits on a
picturesque piece of coastline
near the impressive Gunnuhver
geothermal area. Also nearby is
a footbridge over the Eurasian
tectonic divide.
Museums: Rokksafn & Viking World
After all that energy-sapping
outdoorsiness, the town of
Kelfavík has a few museum op-
tions. Rokksafn—the Museum
of Rock ‘n’ Roll—is a tribute to
the town’s musical past, when
locals formed bands based
on the local (now decommis-
sioned) U.S. military base radio
station. You can also visit Vi-
king World in the adjoining vil-
lage of Njarðvík, which houses a
full-sized Viking ship, and some
displays of artefacts and Viking
history.
Swim: The Blue Lagoon
This world-famous geothermal
spa has recently undergone re-
development after a huge swell
in popularity. The milky-white
outdoor pool has been expand-
ed, meaning bathers are more
spread out in the space, and
there’s a mud bar to pick up
facial treatments as you bob
around. It’s intensely relaxing:
so much so that you might need
a nap afterwards.
Stay: The Lighthouse Inn
A particularly picturesque place
to spend the night is Garður.
This tiny village sits right on
the tip of the peninsula, and
has not one but two lighthous-
es, just a stone’s throw from
each other; the smaller hous-
es a café during the summer
months. There’s a camping
ground, or you can get a room in
the airy and comfortable Light-
house Inn—a newly built hostel
with a view over the coast.
Pre-booking is required. Book online at bluelagoon.com