Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.05.2018, Qupperneq 34

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Iceland 2018
34 BEST OF ICELAND 2018
Westfjords
Go West, life is peaceful there
Best Accommodation
Hotel Djúpavík
Djúpavík
This was an easy one for the panel. Hotel Djúpavík may be as
isolated as possible in the smallest town in Iceland, but its charm
is inversely proportional to its population, with the famous herring
factory and the remains of a wrecked ship. The hotel has a wrap-
around balcony, haunting landscape views and, as one panellist
pointed out, its very own waterfall coming down nearby. The
interiors, food, and staff are all equally inviting. Utterly silent save
for the birds and the rippling water, it’s the ultimate retreat—like a
place frozen perfectly in time. Map square: F7
Runner Up
Heydalur, Mjóifjörður
In a beautiful valley near Ísafjörður,
Heydalur is much more than just ac-
commodation. A guesthouse, campsite,
restaurant, swimming pool, greenhouse,
farm, and recreation centre all run by a
lovable matriarch with seemingly infinite
energy. In addition to being a base for
hiking, kayaking, hot-potting and other
outdoor activities, they also offer horses
for riding, their own dogs for petting,
and even a fox who hangs around with
guests on occasion. C6
Easy Option
Campsites
For thrifty readers, we’re gonna shout
out to the many beautiful campsites
around the Westfjords. You have to pay,
but they’ll be cheaper and probably
much nicer than many campsites
abroad. Most have showers, and some
have a kitchenette so you can cook all
the pasta you can eat in order to save up
to gorge yourself at Tjöruhúsið. We rec-
ommend Reykjanes for its beautiful pool,
Þingeyraroddi for its cute little gazebo,
and Melanes for its private waterfall.
Best Meal
Tjöruhúsið
Neðstikaupstaður, Ísafjörður
Housed in an 18th-century fishing
house, it features communal tables,
low wooden ceilings, and best damn
fish in the country. Every few minutes, a
new, different, giant searing pan of fish
appears at the buffet for everyone to
try. The fish is fresh, and they have clas-
sic or internationally-inspired dishes
like creamy haddock with grapes and
peanut satay. It’s pricey, but think of
it as three meals. You’ll eat that much
anyway. C6
Runners Up
Vegamót
Tjarnarbraut 2, Bíldudalur
Bíldudalur doesn’t have any single
shop or restaurant, just a building that
combines every essential service into
one place. Vegamót is one such place,
only with a proper chef. As well as a
convenience store, there are rustic
tables with a fjord view; they serve
fish and burgers (one with a pineapple
topping—one panellist warned not to
let the president know about this.) B8
Kaupfélagið Steingrímsfjarðar
Höfðatún 4, Hólmavík
Every seasoned Westfjords traveller
knows this place. It’s a long way between
Hólmavík and Súðavík and there is one
single gas stop along the way, so anybody
with a practical bone in their body has
probably stopped here. Kaupfélagið is
Icelandic for “the everything store,” and
this place is exactly that: gas station,
grocery store, and diner. Some panellists
prefer the classic burgers, while others
like the shockingly good sandwiches.. F8
Must-See Spot
Dynjandi
Just off Route 60
Although the Westfjords are literally
dripping with waterfalls, Dynjandi is the
undisputed champion. As it cascades
down over multiple levels, it fans out
to create a giant pyramid (or wedding
cake) of water. It can be seen from
far off, but its immensity can only be
understood when you stand right at
the foot of it and look up. You can even
camp and let its soothing rush sing you
straight to sleep. C8
Runners Up
Látrabjarg, Route 612
The westernmost point of Iceland (and
possibly Europe), Látrabjarg is also
the puffinmost point of Iceland (and
possibly Europe). The scenic cliffs are
more packed than the liquor store at
17:59. But the puffins couldn’t care less
about the crowds (or the paparazzi,
as one panellist pointed out). They just
nonchalantly puffin’ around their little
avian metropolis for all to see. A9
Djúpavík Factory
This towering, crumbling herring
factory was the largest concrete
building in Iceland when it was built in
1935. It was abandoned by 1954 when
the herring vanished; it has since been
partially refurbished, and is now used
as a museum and art gallery during
summer. Many of Iceland’s best artists,
both visual and musical, have graced
its halls, including Sigur Rós on their
Heima tour. You can hike the mountains
for an aerial view. F7