Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.05.2018, Page 50

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Iceland 2018
50 BEST OF ICELAND 2018
East
If west is the best, east is the... beast?
Best Accommodation
Wilderness Centre
Fljótsdalur
Visiting the Wilderness Centre in Fljótsdalur is like stepping back
in time, and you can stay in the past overnight by booking at the
Baðstofa. “It has wonderful communal sleeping quarters that are
set up just like they used to be for hundreds of years,” said the
panel, “only with electricity, soft mattresses and access to hot
showers.” The hosts, Denni and Arna, offer a warm welcome, and
there are lots of activities on offer: an exhibition, horse riding,
highland hikes, and stargazing complete with marshmallows, an
open fire, and a telescope. Map square: F10
Runner Up
Fosshotel Fáskrúðsfjörður
Fáskrúðsfjörður
This quaint hotel is in a beautiful old
building that was once a hospital in
this "French town" of the East. There's
a museum about the town's heritage, a
good restaurant with French wines, and
old-style, cosy rooms with a lot of at-
mosphere. “It feels more connected to
Iceland than the newbuild Nordic-mini-
mal hotels," said the panel. I10
Runner Up
Hostel Hafaldan
Seyðisfjörður
Another grand old hospital-turned-ho-
tel is Hafaldan, a cavernous hostel with
a relaxed vibe, located in the heart of
the beautiful seaside town of Seyðis-
fjörður. "It’s beautifully converted,
with a great open-plan kitchen, and
nice views of the mountains,” said the
panel. “It now also has a sauna in the
basement." I8
Best Meal
Havarí
Berufjörður
Havarí, a farm in Beirufjörður has a lot
going on. The proprietors, Svavar &
Berglind, run a hostel, organic farm,
veggie snack factory, and a café and
concert venue in the summer months
(open April-September). They serve their
very own veggie "Bulsur" sausages plus
other tasty meals in the café which
is within a renovated sheep house.
Concerts happen roughly every second
weekend, with some great Icelandic
acts coming through. "Everything is
tasty and organic,” said the panel.
“They're doing super nice work." H11
Runners Up
Norð Austur & Skaftfell
Seyðisfjörður
Norð Austur is possibly the best
sushi place in Iceland, immaculately
prepared using incredibly fresh fish,
and beautifully presented. They’re only
open in summer, and they’re sometimes
booked out, so check ahead. But fear
not if you miss out—just down the road
is the Skaftfell gallery, coffee house and
pizzeria, which serves mouth-watering
pizzas all year round. I8
Klausturkaffi
Miðvangur 2, Egilsstaðir
There are so many great eastern
eateries that it was hard to choose,
but the lunch buffet at Klausturkaffi—
located in the charming and historic
Skriðuklaustur cultural centre—met
with particular praise. “They have a
great selection of dishes made out of
local ingredients,” said the panel, “and
with local traditions at heart.” G10
Must-See Spot
Borgarfjörður
Eystri
“Borgarfjörður Eystri is not to be
missed,” said the panel. This remote
fjord is home to the tiny fishing village
of Bakkagerði, surrounded by beautiful
mountains. Just outside the village, “The
puffin colony at Hafnarhólmi is the best
place to come and see these colourful
birds up close,” said the panel. “In early
summer there are hundreds of them all
over the place and they are so relaxed
that you can almost reach out and
cuddle them.” I7
Runners Up
Teigarhorn, Near Djúpivógur
This tucked away nature area lies close
to Djúpivogur in Berufjörður, conve-
niently just off Route One. "It's a geosite
where you find zeolites that look like
diamonds,” said the panel. “There’s a
very old farm—one of the first female
photographers in Iceland lived there.
They had a great mineral collection
there, but they were robbed—they are
slowly assembling a new collection."
Please don’t take any rocks with you:
the area is protected. H12
Hvalnesviti
Near Höfn
This humble, wind-whipped lighthouse,
just down a dirt track close to Route
One, is located in a spot of amazing nat-
ural beauty. Look in any direction and
you’ll see towering, jagged mountains,
black beaches, and the sea crashing in,
creating a mist across the area. You’ll
leave feeling fresh, with the taste of
sea salt lingering on your lips. H13