Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.06.2018, Page 20

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2018
20
“It became an obsession; the idea that
pizza could be more than just basic food.”
DINING
Pizza
Perfection
Iceland’s first Napoli-style pizzeria delivers
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Art Bicnick
Pizzas and burgers get Icelanders’
hearts racing like nothing else.
When Domino’s first opened its
doors in Reykjavík in the fall of
1993, the lines were never-ending,
but for a country so obsessed with
pizza, a regional-style pizzeria
touting the virtues of the humble
hand-made pie has been glaringly
absent.
Now, four young entrepre-
neurs—Sindri Snær Jensson, Jón
Davíð Davíðsson, Brynjar Guð-
jónsson and Haukur Mar Gests-
son—are looking to put that
right. They took their love of piz-
za seriously enough to turn one
corner of Grandi into Reykjavík’s
Little Italy.
“It all started in New York,”
says Haukur. “I went on a pizza
tour in New York City in 2009.
Back then I didn't know anything
about pizza, other than that I liked
it. The tour started at Lombardi’s.
We were told you judge a pizze-
ria by the Margherita, and how
to close your eyes, feel the taste
of the tomatoes, the dough, and
the cheese. After that, it became
an obsession; the idea that piz-
za could be more than just basic
food.”
Napoli style
Flatey is a smart, modern pizze-
ria. It exudes a trendy, moody vibe
in a grey-black-green palette. The
polished copper pizza oven serves
as a bright focus of the open
kitchen, and there are snippets
from the history of the Margheri-
ta everywhere. It’s the perfect spot
for anything from a first date to a
casual family outing.
Unlike take-out pizzas from
large chains, pizzas vary by re-
gion, from the beloved thin crust
and pepperoni New York slice, to
Roman pizza al taglio, fried piz-
za (pizza fritte), and Sicilian pies.
But probably the most celebrated
is the Neapolitan pizza. Such is its
popularity that they were recently
included in the UNESCO listing of
‘intangible cultural heritage.’
Essentially a 10” pie, the Ne-
apolitan pizza is hand stretched,
with simple San Marzano toma-
to sauce, mozzarella, fresh basil
and olive oil, served unsliced. The
most popular, and also the sim-
plest is the Margherita, which
marries simple ingredients by fla-
vour and fire.
Flatey
“We decided to do this a year ago,”
says Haukur. I have a hard time
believing him as I slice into the
Margherita. It’s simplicity itself,
and the quality of the ingredients
are obvious. “We travelled, we
tried different Neapolitan pizze-
rias, ate nothing but pizzas,” he
continues. “And then we went to
Naples.”
All of Flatey’s pizzas bear that
delectable leopard skin blister-
ing, with the electric oven from
Naples flash cooking each one in
under a minute. The Diavola is a
true-to-its-name spicy number,
the heat tempered by the pickling
and a wonderful touch of honey.
The Tartufo is a pizza bianca, ele-
vated by truffle oil and handmade
Italian cheese. For vegans, there’s
also a delicious Marinara.
Local tide
With most Icelanders preferring
NY-style pizza, I’m curious how
the response has been to this au-
thentic Italian fare. “I was expect-
ing that a lot of people wouldn't
like it,” says Haukur. “We knew it
would be a slow start with people
discovering it. It isn’t a crunchy
pizza—it’s simpler.’’
But the place has been packed
to the gills since its opening. Flat-
ey has managed to, in a very short
window, turn the pizza tide. The
pricing is intentionally honest,
the passion is palpable, and the piz-
zas? Possibly the best in town. And
we don’t say that lightly.
www.braudogco.is
frakkastigur 16
hlemmur matholl
Fakafen 11
OPENING HOURS
EARLY - 18:00
OPENING HOURS
EARLY - 18:00
OPENING HOURS
EARLY - 18:00
Some people report their pizza arriving at Flatey in under two minutes