Reykjavík Grapevine - 19.11.2018, Blaðsíða 44

A Series Of
Unfortunate Events
Clueless capers at Kopar
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photo: Art Bicnick
Survival of the fittest could well ap-
ply to Reykjavík restaurants. Never
has there been such an abundance
of eateries, so it’s mystifying that
natural selection hasn’t yet weeded
out the likes of Kopar.
Headed by Ylfa Helgadóttir,
Kopar’s location—with a top floor
view over Reykjavik’s old harbour—
was widely appreciated. However,
the website’s description of the
‘fresh and energetic atmosphere of
the old harbour’ as part of the dining
experience is rather ironic.
Reykjavík curse
My earliest meal at Kopar this year
was during the Food and Fun fes-
tival, when guest chef Amandine
Chaignot wooed us with a flawless
crispy-skinned trout dish, prepared
with technical precision so on-point
that I haven’t stopped thinking
about it since. I went back for lunch
a few months later with memories
of that skillful execution still fresh
in my mind.
The ‘catch of the day’ (1990 ISK)
startled me back to reality. It’s well
priced, but the ubiquitous cop-out
combo of fish fillets, a mound of
spuds, an orange and white purée,
and some greens is an ubiquitous
lunch special curse that needs to be
lifted. The chefs wouldn’t be able
to pick out their own dishes from a
line-up. Restaurateurs, are you lis-
tening?
Clueless capers
Dinner a few weeks later got off to
a disastrous start with two beau-
tiful-looking cocktails—Violetta
Mojidito and a Moscow Mule (2,090
ISK)—that were liquid proof that
being Instagram-ready maketh
not a delicious drink. The hostess
swapped them with
a disco pink offense,
its burning rose-
mary twig a failed
attempt to lure us
back into the fold.
The Cod Tongues
(2,190 ISK) were a
missed opportu-
nity. W hen deep
fried, cod tongues
h a v e a v e l v e t y
creaminess—a characteristic com-
plimented at Matur og Drykkur
with a tempura-like batter. Here,
they’re speechlessly sandwiched
between XL swathes of heavy bat-
ter. The Raw Scallop (1,990 ISK) was
the only highlight of the meal, the
contrasting hot and cold of the spicy
jalapeños and cold shellfish so good
that the misused dill crumble was
forgiven.
Haphazard cooking
We longed for absolution in the
main course; it had been a bitingly
cold walk to the restaurant and we
hoped to be warmed inside and out.
However, the Beef Cheek Bourgui-
gnon (4,990 ISK) is a dish the French
would guillotine Kopar for. It was
so deconstructed that we were as
befuddled as the waitress, who ex-
claimed she’d never tried the dish
herself. A lonely hunk of dry cheek
sits glazed in a puddle of overcooked
sauce and split butter reminiscent
of reduced balsamic.
The Grilled Monkfish (5,490 ISK)
is an all out affront to any sensitiv-
ity—gigantic broccolini ‘trees’ deep-
fried in their thick house batter atop
a mound of basil pesto, pineapple
and pomegranate arils. Ironical-
ly, it was the absence of Fish and
Chips that drew me to Kopar; little
did I know we’d be
trapped in a deep-
fried nightmare.
Where is the fish,
you wonder? Sitting
forlorn in its own
puddle of undersea-
soned misery.
The problem at
Kopar is that no two
elements seem to
speak to each other.
The kitchen seems hell-bent on
forcing a ‘twist’ onto everything in
sight, and nothing is sacred, nor de-
licious. This is further compounded
by the miserably earnest snail-paced
service from waiters oblivious about
the wares they peddle. Pull up your
socks Kopar, your cooking needs to
catch up to your popularity.
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Looks pretty, but left much to be desired
Food
“Where is the
fish, you won-
der? Sitting
forlorn in its
own puddle of
underseasoned
misery.”
FISH panS
icelandic "plokkfiskur"
Onion, garlic, potatoes,
celery, lime, white wine,
cream and butter
1,950 isk

arcTic cHar
Honey, almonds, cherry–
tomatoes, lemon and butter
2,200 isk
redfisH
Chili, celery root, sour cream,
corn, lemon and cream
2,200 isk
plaice
Tomatoes, capers, parsley,
lemon and butter
2,200 isk
salmon (lacTose–free)
Parsnip, broccoli, cashews,
coconut oil, chili and lemon
2,200 isk
our fisH pans are always served
wiTH buTTer–fried icelandic
poTaToes & fresH salad
any pans
for
luncH?
lækjargaTa 6b, 101 rvk · 546 0095 · messinn@messinn.com
What do you know about Ban Thai
Always been the best
in our local people
from the reviews
and local newspaper.
There's a reason why
we get an award
every once a year
r e s t a u r a n t
w w w . b a n t h a i . i s
tel : 5522-444, 692-0564 banthai@banthai.is
Laugavegur 130, Reykjavík
B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 8
also 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012,
2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
BEST RESTAURANTS IN ICELAND
TOP TEN
DV. 17.06.11
Ban Thai is not “fast food”
food made fresh from scratch,
it‘s not pre-made,
every item in the menu
take some time to cook,
Please prepare your time
before you come
Best goddamn restaurant 2011
Best goddamn restaurant 2011
m a n y f a m o u s p e o p l e a r e r e g u l a r s h e r e