Reykjavík Grapevine - 19.11.2018, Qupperneq 50

TOWN GUIDE
Breiðdalsvík
Charming village lies on the coast
with great seascapes
Words & Photos : Eli Petzold
Unlike its nearest neighbours to
the north, which nestle within
the steep embrace of narrow
fjords, the small fishing village of
Breiðdalsvík sits along a wide cove
that opens onto a low-lying valley.
Despite its miniscule population
of about 140 residents, the town
bursts with civic pride, thanks to
the concerted efforts of a few eager
proprietors. A casual stroll along
the active harbour road reveals
some of the oddities that set the
town apart: decomposing reindeer
heads, a brilliantly orange light-
house, and picturesque weather-
worn fishing shacks. But there are
enough reasons to spend an entire
afternoon or spend the night in
town.
Explore:
Routes 964, 966, 95
A small network of roads ex-
tending into the valley west of
Breiðdalsvík offers views of a land-
scape that toes the line between
pastoral and epic. Natural gems
scatter the region along these
under-travelled roads; but, with
informational signs few and far
between, it’s the perfect place to
let curiosity and adventure guide
you. At the heart of the valley, the
Breiðdalsá river tumbles down the
short, but staggeringly broad falls
at Beljandi. Further up the valley,
tucked within a recess in a dark
cliff wall, the narrow Flögufoss
waterfall passes under a narrow
rock arch before plummeting into
a moss-splotched hollow.
Stay: Hótel Bláfell
With a vivid blue roof and a rain-
bow walkway leading to its front
steps, the rustic Hótel Bláfell
provides a welcome splash of co-
lour amidst the dull greys and
browns of Breiðdalsvík. Offering
46 cosy rooms, a Finnish-style
sauna and a restaurant, Hótel
Bláfell promises comfort at the
beginning or end of a long day’s
adventure.
Eat: Kaupfjélagið
If you want to get a sense of daily
life in Breiðdalsvík, grab a bite
at the café in Kaupfjélagið, the
town’s old general store. A con-
stant stream of locals and tour-
ists alike keep the place abuzz
from open to close. Try their fish
and chips, made from the fish that
arrives in Breiðdalsvík’s harbour;
or, perhaps, the reindeer burger
that regularly appears as a rotat-
ing special.
Drink:
Beljandi Brewery
Once you get over the initial sur-
prise of encountering a craft mi-
crobrewery in such a tiny town,
it’s well worth sipping a pint (or
four) of the various drafts cooked
up by Beljandi Brewery. Despite
the building’s former history as
a slaughterhouse, Beljandi’s ami-
able bartenders, pool table and
book exchange library have trans-
formed the space into a welcom-
ing, unpretentious watering hole.
Swim: Íþróttamiðstöð
Breiðdalshrepps
Set on the edge of town, the
swimming pool and hot tub at
Breiðdalsvík’s municipal sporting
facility offer a grand mountain
view interrupted only by a short
perimeter wall that (thankfully)
shields the area from piercing
winds. Although its opening hours
are restricted to afternoons and
evenings in the summer months,
the view makes for a worthwhile
visit if the timing is right.
Travel
Distance from Reykjavík: 613 km
How to get there: Route One south, continuing
beyond the turnoff for the Öxi mountain pass
Car provided by: gocarrental.is
Accommodation provided by: havari.is
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