Reykjavík Grapevine - 05.07.2019, Blaðsíða 49

side grass, three eggs ready to hatch.
The enticing beach is a safe dis-
tance from ducks’ and terns’ breeding
grounds. Socks and shoes slip off rap-
idly. The sand is warm, and the North
Atlantic an almost Mediterranean
aquamarine blue. We are beach babes
below the Arctic circle, plodging and
beachcombing on a mid-teens summer
day.
After a walk under the pier, our de-
sire to learn the secrets of the final eyri
pulls us from our shoreline saunter, so
we pile back into the car in search of
our next bird guide.
The world is our
oystercatcher
After crossing the mountain pass to
Dýrafjörður, Þingeyri appears across
the bay. Oystercatchers line the road.
Plump black-and-white bodies look at
odds with the shock of neon orange
beaks bleating cheeps as we park the
car. One waddles from a gravel nest,
where we spy three more eggs, simi-
larly splotched to the tern eggs, but
larger in size. The village of Þingeyri
feels the most like the place to root
and roost after a pleasant day explor-
ing the fjords.
Simbahöllin Café has a strong roast
brewing, and we refuel ourselves with
a coffee in anticipation of the drive back
to Ísafjörður, through the tunnels and
fjords. The village feels lived-in, famil-
iar, comfortable. If only we could stay
to share the local gossip, learn to play
the langspil, and take up residency in
the co-working centre of Blábankinn.
But there are more birds to follow, and
more slow travel in our futures, so we
set off home, our dreams ready to hatch
and soar.
gpv.is/travel
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