Reykjavík Grapevine - okt. 2019, Blaðsíða 44

Irreverent
Adoration
Whispers of Japan at Fiskmarkaðurinn
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photo: Art Bicnick
Fiskmarkaðurinn
Visit the restaurant at
Aðalstræti 12, and online at
fiskmarkadurinn.is
It’s not easy to run a restaurant for
over a decade in as fierce a market
as Reykjavík and Fish Market is cel-
ebrating its 12th anniversary this
year, no small feat for any estab-
lishment.
The buttercup yellow house con-
tinues to draw locals and visitors
alike. It’s 1891 heritage status adds
its own quirky limitations on a mod-
ern-day restaurant; with only one
common staircase through the two-
storey restaurant. It is a common
sight to see trays of food being sent
up, even as one walks in through
the front doors. A little caution is
advised lest a newbie server drop
something (it has happened to me).
None of the overdesign of sister
restaurant Grillmarket finds its way
here despite hints of it in the drift-
wood and moss accents. The seating
is pleasantly clustered into zones—
from the loungey upper floor to the
more intimate kitchen-side seats,
which are especially date-friendly.
Service is eager without being over-
bearing and it is rare that there is a
server who doesn’t know the menu
or wine well.

Icelandic Japanese
Sure, the restaurant does not call
itself Japanese, but when more than
half the menu is dedicated to Japa-
nese dishes, it’s fair that they’re
recognised as such. The food itself
is loyal to neither Icelandic nor Japa-
nese cuisines and therein lies both
its attraction and fault lines.
Does the absence of a lacy whis-
per of starch still qualify deep-fried
thingamabits as tempura? Nope.
But like all things fried, the tem-
pura shrimp (3,900 ISK) goes down
a treat.
Lip-service taxonomy is largely
justified in Iceland but, as history
shows us, it wasn’t long ago that
the country celebrated the opening
of its first Japanese restaurant in
1994, Samurai. Consider its menu
of yakitori, noodle dishes and sake,
going beyond sushi and perhaps,
beyond its time. In the absence of a
puritan Japanese restaurant, Fish
Market is a tolerable stand-in.
The sushi isn’t a purist’s wet-
dream, nor is it a stodgy assembly
line of cold pucks of rice and sad-
ness. Much like the California roll,
Icelandic sushi is about the creamy
and crispy and less about the fish.
Most of the sushi here is rightfully
then, uramaki style—rice outside,
plenty of toppings and fillings and
at least two kinds of sauces.
The Surf ‘n’ Turf sushi (4,900
ISK) is colourful, and notches
above similar fare from other res-
taurants. Most are available as
half portions and nigiri is offered
only in pairs (ranging from 1,190
to 1,490 ISK). The sashimi platter
(3,790 ISK) is Instagram friendly
and still the best bang-for-your-
buck offering in town. Bear in
mind that the Sushi (5,400 ISK)
and Sashimi platters have a gen-
erous overlap, a detail I wish the
servers would be candid about.
More than Sushi
The lightly salted cod (5,400 ISK)
is considered their signature dish,
and rightly so. With a base line of
fork-tender cod, and a changing
constellation of accompaniments,
it is always a safe dish to bet on. I’d
even recommend it over the meat
options if you were to try just one
dish here. I also like their silky
robata grilled salmon (5,200 ISK).
The generous hunk of fish is barely
singed and makes for a satisfying
meal with the Chapel Peak Sauvi-
gnon Blanc.
Restaurateur and head chef Hre-
fna Sætran has an uncanny ability
to tap into the pulse of her target
audience—well heeled diners who
feel more worldly than their pal-
ates often are. To take the anxiety
out of exploring the unfamiliar is
a challenge well met at Fish Market
by cushioning the new between gen-
erous slatherings of the familiar,
albeit at the cost of diluted flavours
or absent techniques distinctive to a
dish. But the peppy service, bustling
atmosphere and consistently deli-
cious food makes this a keeper and
repeater.
Find the best
food in Iceland!
Download our
free events app,
APPENING, on
the Apple and
Android storesFood
Insider tip: Try the food
FISH PANS
ICELANDIC "PLOKKFISKUR"
Onion, garlic, potatoes,
celery, lime, white wine,
cream and butter
, ISK

ARCTIC CHAR
Honey, almonds, cherry–
tomatoes, lemon and butter
, ISK
REDFISH
Chili, celery root, sour cream,
corn, lemon and cream
, ISK
PLAICE
Tomatoes, capers, parsley,
lemon and butter
, ISK
SALMON (LACTOSE–FREE)
Parsnip, broccoli, cashews,
coconut oil, chili and lemon
, ISK
OUR FISH PANS ARE ALWAYS SERVED
WITH BUTTER–FRIED ICELANDIC
POTATOES & FRESH SALAD
ANY PANS
FOR
LUNCH?
LÆKJARGATA B,  RVK ·   · MESSINN@MESSINN.COM
What do you know about Ban Thai
Always been the best
in our local people
from the reviews
and local newspaper.
There's a reason why
we get an award
every once a year
r e s t a u r a n t
w w w . b a n t h a i . i s
open : 18.00 - 22.00 every day, tel : 5522-444 / 692-0564 / banthai@banthai.is
Laugavegur 130, Reykjavík
B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 9
2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013,
2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018.
BEST RESTAURANTS IN ICELAND
TOP TEN
DV. 17.06.11
Ban Thai is not “fast food”
food made fresh from scratch,
it‘s not pre-made,
every item in the menu
take some time to cook,
Please prepare your time
before you comeBest goddamn restaurant 2011
m a n y f a m o u s p e o p l e a r e r e g u l a r s h e r e
very reasonable prices