Reykjavík Grapevine - sept 2020, Qupperneq 18

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2020
18 BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2020
Dining
Greasy burger, or glazed, torched cod head?
Best Ice Cream
Skúbb
Laugarásvegur 1
Nothing quite says 'live in the moment' like a melty cone of luscious
ice-cream. Did you know that Skúbb only uses milk from Bíobú, a local
organic farm? Did you know they are the most non-distinguishable
between vegan and dairy ice-cream scoops? That is how vibrant and
intense each scoop is at Skúbb. Lately, the panel’s been gushing about
the passion fruit with coconut milk, although the dark chocolate and
berry sorbets are also not to be missed. The waffle cone itself has im-
proved dramatically, with a shattering crispness. With a small curat-
ed selection that reflects the seasons, this imaginarium of joy churns
everything from tomatoes to licorice roots into ice-cream. We heart
you Skúbb.
Runners-Up
Ísbúð Vesturbæjar
Hagamel 67
A cultural centre, blitzer of ice-cream
shakes, dipper of chocolate dips in
assorted toppings and maker of the
best gamli-ís (old school water-based
ice cream) beloved Ísbúð Vesturbæjar
is basically an institution. Nothing quite
says you are a local like going here
during a mild storm, getting your dairy
fix for the slow bíltúr ahead.
Arna Ís og Kaffi
Eiðistorg 15
With expansive views out to the ocean,
this lactose-free cafe and ice cream
spot is particularly welcoming for
those with kids. The scoopers oblige
whims young and old and the extensive
nammi (candy, a local favourite with
ice creams) selection should keep any
pre-sugar grumpiness at bay.
Previous Winners
2018-9: Skúbb
2017: Valdís
Best Tasting Menu
Óx Reykjavík
Inside Sumac, Laugavegur 28
An intimate dining experience unlike
any other, Óx seats only 12 diners each
night in an intimate chef’s table setting.
There is little room for error in this
gastronomic drama where everything
unfolds in full view. Whole roasted
duck carved exquisitely, whole grilled
monkfish passed family style, delicate
morsels of langoustine paired with
beers and wines, all while you chat
away with the chefs and fellow diners.
The intimacy heightens the experience,
and as the wine pours it starts to feel
like you know each other well. Once
the dust settles, it’s time to leave and
you do so a tad bit shaken as you walk
out from the tiny timber cabin into the
bustling Sumac.
Runners-Up

Dill
Laugavegur 59
Turning the tasting menu concept on
its head, Dill features a singular seafood
and/or meat across multiple courses
in order to really honour the produce
in its entirety. Expect to be dazzled by
the foreplay—the onion cake is gaining
rightful notoriety as is the wine pairing,
in that there is no pairing at all, but ‘a’
wine to accompany a selection of dish-
es, allowing you to discern for yourself
what pairing you enjoy best.
Matur og Drykkur
Grandagarður 2
Whether it is land-, sea- or a vege-
table-forward tasting you want to expe-
rience, you’re in safe hands at Matur
og Drykkur. Each menu is a considered
study and showcases Iceland’s best
produce—foal, reindeer, cod and lamb
all make an appearance. The progres-
sion between courses is well portioned
and well timed, and you’ll leave with a
sense of having explored the island’s
culinary landscape.
Previous Winners
2019: Grillið (RIP)
2017-8: Dill
Best Italian
La Primavera
Marshall House, Grandagarður 20
With the re-opening of La Primavera, the
restaurant has earned loyalists both
old and new. Sitting pretty by the Grandi
harbour in Marshall House, it is partic-
ularly popular with the lunch crowd.
Fair warning however, this is lunch at
an Italian Nonna’s house, meaning you’ll
be dawdling out of there stuffed to
the gills. Dinner however is an elegant
affair. The focus is on coaxing maximum
flavour from seasonal ingredients
at their prime by doing as little as
possible. You might start the year with
pan-fried fresh cod, and then move
onto light summer salads, perhaps
grilled broccolini, and in the fall, pasta
woven with wild mushrooms. A right
royal treat however is the truffle (from
San Miniato) festival the restaurant
intends to continue hosting.
Runners-Up

The Coocoo’s Nest
Grandagarður 23
Between their brunches and breads,
it’s easy to forget that Coocoo’s is
really a Cali-Italian place at heart. The
sourdough pizzas deserve particular
mention, as do the appetisers that
could easily serve as a meal by itself.
The vegetarian byggoto (barley risotto)
is deeply satisfying, while the olive oil
cake is a true slice of simple joy.
Eiriksson Brasserie
Laugavegur 77
It’s hard to categorise Eiriksson with its
Italian-French leaning menu. The inte-
riors and menu whisper nouveau riche
indulgence, the ‘fancy’ ingredients are
a giveaway. But all these reservations
aside, they dish out a mean veal, good
steaks and a smattering of pasta and
pizzas.
Previous Winners
2019: La Primavera
2018: Marshall House