Reykjavík Grapevine - sep. 2020, Side 19

19
Th
e R
ey
kj
av
ík
G
ra
pe
vi
ne
Be
st
o
f R
ey
kj
av
ík
20
20
Best Lamb
Apótek
Austurstræti 16
Whatever lamb is being served
here, rest assured it’ll be a meal to
remember. With experienced chefs
who share an unbridled passion for
meat and fire, all the plates come out
perfectly executed. Such is their love
for lamb, that every Sunday they host
a traditional Sunday roast with all the
fixin’s—sugared potatoes, green peas,
mushrooms and a slow cooked leg of
lamb plus a little family-style dessert
for just 2990 ISK. And if that isn’t your
cup of tea, then both their lunch and
dinner menus showcase three different
cuts of lamb.
Runners-Up

Lamb Street Food
Grandagarður 7
You don’t need to sell a kidney to
taste good Icelandic lamb. This little
restaurant is built around the animal;
even the walls are adorned with
graphic illustrations of the clipped ear
tag patterns of sheep. The flatbreads
and selection of sauces like the herby
zhoug are designed to highlight the
grilled meat.

Matarkjallarinn
Aðalstræti 2
By foregoing frivolous add-ons, Matark-
jallarinn lets the lamb speak for itself.
Whether you order the grilled lamb
chops or the popular shoulder it will be
cooked to tender succulence. Icelandic
lamb is prized for its clean, grassy
flavour and here it is showcased in a
fittingly unpretentious fashion.
Previous Winners
2019: Matarkjallarinn
Best Sourdough
The Coocoo’s Nest
Grandagarður 23
Which bakery has the best bread is
a hugely contested topic in people’s
homes, on social media food groups
and on the Grapevine’s panel too.
The giant wheaty boules at Coocoo’s
are a balance of flavour, with a tang
that dissolves into sweetness and an
airy crumb structure. A nice crunchy
crust yields to a billowy soft interior.
It is fantastic on its own with nothing
more than a schmear of butter and is a
great vehicle for toppings. Such is the
demand and affection for Lucas’s bread
that last Christmas saw advance orders
being taken.
Runners-Up

Sandholt
Laugavegur
Legend has it that the sourdough
culture has been kept alive and clearly
well-fed over decades at Sandholt. The
alchemy of flour, water and time left to
do its thing is transformed into one of
the most beautiful rustic loaves with an
enviable open crumb, the holy grail for
many an enthusiastic baker.

Brikk
Mýrargata 31
For yeasted delights both sweet and
salty, Brikk is a one-stop shop. From
Nutella swirled snúðurs to a spicy chil-
li-flecked loaf, this bakery/cafe churns
out some pretty solid sourdough as
well. Light and airy, not too ‘holey’ and
often warm if you pick them up in the
morning, these loaves will find favour
with those prefer a ‘softer’ crust.
Previous Winners
New Category!
Best Traditional
Icelandic Food
Café Loki
Lokastígur 28
Long before Icelandic food was
considered ‘cool’, this unassuming cafe
has been unabashedly celebrating
tradition. From the classic farm style
kjötsúpa (lamb soup) to herring and
plökkfiskur, everything is a throw-
back to how the island once ate. We
recommend trying the rye bread soup
as well—it’s part what the heck, part
dessert, but all delicious. And for those
writing their own tales of bravado,
there is fermented shark to be washed
down by Brennivín.
Runners-Up

Þrír Frakkar
Baldursgata 14
To get a sense of Icelandic food culture
from a time before it was fashionably
New Nordic, pay a visit to Þrír Frakkar.
This restaurant has not let anything
sway them from tradition—you’ll spot
everything from foal, to black bird, to
cod throats and plokkfiskur that are
sure to remain long in your memory. A
visit to this place underlines that good
old-fashioned Icelandic cooking can be
all kinds of memorable.

Salka Valka
Skólavörðustígur 23
Named after Halldór Laxness’ two-part
novel, this charming little eatery dishes
up affordable, plentiful food, offering
visitors a taste of Iceland on a budget.
The plokkfiskur and the steamed fish
are cooked in home-style modesty
and they accommodate vegans and
vegetarians as well.
Previous Winners
New Category!
Best Soup
Ramen Momo
Tryggvagata 16
An elbow room only ramen bar, this
local favourite has been going strong
for five years now. Their passion for
a big old bowl of noodle soup shows
in their constant reinvention. The
sesame forward creamy Tantanmen
is deeply flavoured, the hoisin cooked
pork adding a touch of sweetness and
providing momentary relief against
the heat of the chilli oil. The Icelandic
ramen with lobster broth is a local nod
that really works. Their range of vegan
ramen is unparalleled, although their
tonkotsu continues to be the weak link.
The Korean teas, both hot and cold, are
delightfully original. But Ramen Momo’s
biggest strength are their house-made
noodles—springy and elastic, the con-
sistency of these organic strands make
them a clear winner.
Runners-Up

Hi Noodle
Frakkastígur 9
This adorable little place with a small
selection is known for its all day
cooked tonkotsu, but stay for the spicy
Dan Dan. Crispy chilli oil, minced pork
speckled Chinese original, this is a fan-
tastically delicious bowl (hint, you can
also ask for the ‘dry’ version’). The vegan
options are also quite satisfying. It is
a pity however that their broth:noodle
ratio is off. We want more of your tasty
broth, Hi Noodle!

Noodle Station
Multiple locations
Showing Reykjavík how to soup for sup
long before we had soup alone restau-
rants was Noodle Station. With a choice
of three different broths, rest assured
whatever you order will arrive piping
hot, in a portion too large to finish. If
you have trouble finding one, just follow
the sweet scent of cinnamon and star
anise.
Previous Winners
2018-9: Ramen Momo