Reykjavík Grapevine - Oct 2020, Síða 28

More Is More
Gar!abær’s Sjáland shows off fine dinin" beyond
the downtown scene
Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Art Bicnick
There has long existed a firm divide
between Reykjavík and the greater
Reykjavík area. For some of us, the
distinctions between local munici-
palities blur into, well, Reykjavík.
For others, 101 is full of downtown
rats, 107 is for hipster snobs, the
suburbs of Grafarholt don’t exist
and Gar!abær and Hafnarfjordur
are seldom top the list of anyone’s
favourite dining destinations.
Stereotypes within our small city
aside, I have to admit, I rarely go to
Gar!abær myself.
So when rumours swirled about
a brand new restaurant poised to
open right by the bay in Arnanes-
vogur, once home to
Gar!abær’s docks, I
was curious. The
larch clad building
steadily rose and
as the pandemic
creeped up on us,
it seemed like the
restaurant wouldn’t
open after all.
But curiously,
the pandemic has
only spurred the
team on. Open since
May, Sjáland is likely one of the
busiest restaurants in town today.
They’re open for lunch, dinner and
corporate events seven days a week,
in addition to weekend brunches
and champagne happy hours.
Sjáland 210
I’m greeted by chef Ólafur Ágústs-
son, once at the helm of Systir,
Dill’s sister restaurant, and Kex
Portland. Now the executive chef
at Sjáland, he says, “it’s been easy,”
the transition. “When you walk into
something like this and it’s com-
pletely new,” he continues, sweep-
ing his arms across the vast dining
space, “and you have someone like
Stefán [Magnússon] and he buys
your ideas and brings on people
like Rúnar [Pierre Herivaux] and
Ví!ir [Erlingsson], it’s a great set
up. Goes very smoothly.” Rúnar has
previously worked at Grilli! and is
a Chef of the Year silver medallist.
while Ví!ir has worked at KOKS and
Reykjavik Meat. Together, they form
the core of Sjáland.
Stefán is the restaurateur behind
Reykjavik Meat, Mathús Gar!abær
and Sjáland and it’s hard to miss
his influence on the interiors. The
building too has
received a lot of at-
tention recently.
Designed by Zep-
pelin Architects,
t he bu i ld i n g i s
modest on the out-
side, favouring an
integration of the
outdoors and in-
doors with sweep-
ing views of the bay
and a terraced roof,
perfect for summer
al fresco dining. Inside, the dark,
smoked wood interiors, plush seat-
ing and Moooi Meshmatics chande-
lier create a decadent atmosphere.
(Enough to make one forget the
draughty lobby bar.)
The restaurant seats 90 and
the banquet hall an additional 180.
There are also plans for a smaller
private dining experience for “more
focussed menus,” Ólafur says.
Elevated comfort food
“We want to do comfort food, may-
be a bit elevated,” says Ólafur. “We
want people to be able to enjoy a
‘fine dining’ experience,” he con-
tinues, making air quotes, “without
all the fuss. We wanted a relaxed
atmosphere, big bold flavours and
simple food.” He also admits he’s
never worked solely for this clien-
tele.
“But you have to learn a new
rhythm. And you learn very soon
that diners here are far more de-
manding and forthright than say in
Reykjavik”. Rúnar confirms, “they
are unafraid to speak their mind,
which has been very refreshing,” he
says.
The menu, which has undergone
several changes in its short life, cer-
tainly reflects that vibe now. “It is
kinda seasonal and kinda how we
feel,” Ólafur confirms. There are
wood fired pizzas with various
toppings (an anchovy potato pizza
sounds enticing), a selection of
various proteins and as many des-
serts as main courses. The pizzas
are available for lunch and dinner.
And if you’ve been lamenting the
loss of Hverfisgata 12, well you’re
in luck as the pizzas here certain-
ly echo those pies. “It’s his baby,”
Rúnar says pointing to Olafur, “he’s
all about the pizzas.”
Modern Icelandic
The kitchen sends out an assort-
ment of starters—beautifully
composed plates of smoked trout
with candied fennel and preserved
lemons, a steaming seafood soup
with startlingly well cooked local
shrimp and scallops, and a bloody
beet and fig carpaccio punctuated
with savoury thimbles of foie-gras
crumbles. “I think it's the only dish
that has stayed,” Rúnar says of the
Gar!abær's finest!
Food
FISH & MORE
SkólavörDustígur 23 • 101 reykjavík
Steamed Fresh Fish, Traditional Icelandic Fish ‘Stew’, Fish & Vegan Soups,
Smoked Salmon & Vegan Toppings on Sourdough Bread, Beer, Wine, Coffee & more
15% DISCOUNT
SALKA VALKA
15% discount of total bill, every day
IF you bring this ticket
“We wanted
a relaxed
atmosphere,
big bold fla-
vours and
simple food.”
Laugavegi 28
537 99 00
sumac@sumac. is
sumac. is