Reykjavík Grapevine - jul. 2021, Side 29

by the charred broccoli and rib-
bons of cabbage served alongside.
A zesty Carricante from Scalunera
made for easy drinking alongside.
Many dishes seem to favour the
richness of brown butter, ubiqui-
tous in the menu, a gesture I ques-
tion, but am confident will find ac-
ceptance when showcased as single
courses.
Leaning into the history of the
space, cocktails are named after
Icelandic movies, like Stella í Or-
lofi, and the intriguing Djöflaeyjan
(Devil’s Island). Upon the waiter’s
recommendation, I tried the As-
trópía (2690 ISK), but, unlike the
movie’s role-playing protagonist,
I didn’t quite fall in love with the
sticky slush sorbet-on-the-side
drink making a sweet cocktail
achingly sweeter. A refractometer
wouldn’t be out of place for the bar.
Ambition and promise
The kitchen practically boasts of
the roster of the national chef’s
team, with Viggó Vigfússon and
Elías Gu!mundsson steering the
ship. Between them they bring the
combined experience of having
founded and run everything from
Gló, to Omnom, Skúbb, Blackbox
and Brau! & Co. It will be interest-
ing to see how the many chefs and
founder experiences inform the
menu. I look forward to trying the
vegan fare—he grilled king oyster
mushrooms beckon for a revisit.
I’ve been to many restaurants
and recognise the skin prickling
sensation of new, when everything
is awash with promise and excite-
ment. There is a different air about
fledgling restaurants; they are
practically hope served on a platter.
If the bar and kitchen at Hé!inn can
continue to deliver the lightness of
that tomato dish combined with
their attentive service, Reykjavík
can look forward to a welcome ad-
dition to the dining experience.
Info: Hédinn Kitchen & Bar
Visit the kitchen at Seljavegur 2.
For more information visit
hedinnrestaurant.is
29The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 07— 2021Food
“The kitchen
practically
boasts of the
roster of the
national chef’s
team”
H
ve
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