Iceland review - 2014, Qupperneq 40

38 ICELAND REVIEW
For nearly three centuries, the hot
springs of Haukadalur, South
Iceland, have been among the coun-
try’s most popular tourist destinations, its
main attraction being the whimsical Geysir,
which only erupts sporadically—sometimes
decades pass in between its spectacular
eruptions of steam high up in the air.
Fifteen years have now passed since its last
upsurge. Strokkur, which came about in
a massive earthquake in 1789, has instead
upheld the area’s reputation. This hot
spring, which erupts constantly, is located
right next to Geysir.
It is not known when the hot springs of
Haukadalur began to blow. They are first
mentioned in annals in 1294, after a major
volcanic eruption of Hekla. However, it
isn’t until the 17th century that the name
Geysir is cited in public records. Perhaps
the hot springs lay dormant until then. Or
perhaps, back in the day, such natural phe-
nomena were considered mundane and not
worth writing about.
neitHer Fences nOr Fee
cOllectOrs
During the first centuries after Iceland’s
settlement in the late 9th century, all land
was privately owned, except for areas offi-
cially demarcated as public. The natural
wonders, which we modern people choose
to call as such, were mostly located on
farmland and therefore the farmers’ prop-
erty. This applied to the Haukadalur hot
springs. However, nothing stood in the way
of those wishing to enjoy and explore pic-
turesque places and extraordinary natural
phenomena. Fences didn’t exist—let alone
fee collectors. Since Iceland’s settlement,
free travel has been a mainstay of the
law. An admittance fee was never charged
for the Geysir area as that would have
gone against that concept. However, dur-
ing a brief period in the 19th century, visi-
tors’ conduct around the hot springs had
become so poor that the landowner decided
to cover Geysir with a trapdoor in order
to prevent it from being fed rocks and turf
without permission (such methods served
to awaken it). Anyone who wished to do so
had to pay a fee. For a brief period of time,
there was also a special charge for throw-
ing soap down the hot spring—which also
helped to make it erupt.
until the 20th century, Icelandic farmers
rarely charged travelers who sought food
and board, even though it was both costly
and bothersome. However, especially in the
In light of the current debate regarding
entry fees to Iceland’s natural marvels, historian
Guðmundur Magnússon explains why Geysir truly
belongs to the people of Iceland.
By guðmundur magnúSSon
TRANSLATEd By ÁSta andréSdóttir PHOTOS By PÁll StefÁnSSon ANd magnúS ólafSSon
the GiFt
oF
Geysir