Reykjavík Grapevine - Jan 2023, Page 26

FOOD
Make Every Month
Veganuary
Words: Catharine Fulton Photos: Art Bicnick
Much like all vegans are contrac-
tually obligated to announce their
veganism to everyone within
earshot, I feel it’s apt to take this
opportunity to clarify that I’m not
vegan — I could go into the convo-
luted intricacies of my being seagan
but I don’t want to look like that
much of an asshole when we’re just
getting to know each other.
That being said, my partner is
vegan. And in the six years or so
that he’s chosen that righteous path,
eating out as a family has been a roll-
ercoaster. Sometimes we’ll land at
an all-vegan eatery and he can order
with reckless abandon. Other times,
we’re the high-maintenance guests
asking what the vegan options are
and if it’s possible to “veganize”
other menu items by omitting key
ingredients.
This being the great month of
Veganuary, however, it’s time for an
annual roundup of the best vegan
fare Reykjavík has to offer — it may
just make you want to make every
month Veganuary.
Brút
Pósthússtræti 2
Brút brings to Reykjavík a Nordic-
skewed brunch that is at once light,
colourful and oh-so-satisfying.
Mounds of delicately dressed salads,
hummus, roast veggies and cakes
make up the spectrum of vegan offer-
ings. This is the vegan-friendly brunch
Reykjavík has been waiting for. Oh,
and the bottomless mimosas don’t
hurt.
Le Kock
Tryggvagata 14
You don’t have to be vegan to recog-
nize Le Kock makes a banging vegan
burger. Unlike the ubiquitous super-
market shelf patty, Le Kock leans into
the smashed burger trend with their
crispy, lace-edged smoked barley and
bean number. That smokiness lends a
deeply satisfying note, and the savoury
pineapple-ginger BBQ sauce compli-
ments it perfectly. Aptly named Vegan
Fox 2.0, this is one sassy number.
Vegan World Peace
Aðalstræti 2
This is an all-vegan restaurant with
practically throw away prices — seri-
ously, almost nothing is priced over
2.500 ISK. Southeast Asian mock-
meats act as protein in a menu that is
full of hearty bowls of soups, stir fried
noodles and vegan versions of popular
Vietnamese and Thai dishes, with a
smattering of Japanese and Korean as
well.
Emilie’s Reykjavík
Hverfisgata 98
The wealth of vegan baked goods at
Emilie’s is drool-inducing. Snúður
stuffed with blueberries, raspber-
ries or cinnamon; chocolatey banana
cakes; savoury scones and more — it’s
all there and it’s all delightful. The
soup and bagel combo is also a nice
bite, not skimping on the vegan cream
cheese on the side.
Fönix
Bíldshöfði 12
There isn’t a better fish fragrant
eggplant in town and the Mapo Tofu
sans meat is what tofu aspires to be.
These dishes at Fönix always arrive
at your table scaldingly hot, the
eggplants fried to silky perfection, the
tofu enticingly jiggly. These delights
also happen to be vegan! Family-run
Fönix has something for everyone. The
lunch buffet is also a notch above simi-
lar fare. A word of warning: once you
taste of Fönix’s vegan offerings, every-
thing else will pale in comparison.
Hipstur
Borg 29
Mushroom bread. Mushroom bread.
Mushroom bread. I was earnestly
hoping typing that three times fast
would magically transport this open-
faced delight to my desk (spoiler: it
didn’t). The mushroom bread at this
foodhall outpost is deceptively deli-
cious. The concept is simple enough:
toasted sourdough, mushrooms, pota-
toes, apples and kale. But then there’s
horseradish and some amazing sauce
and herbaceous oil, and the next thing
you know, you’re looking up real estate
on Borgartún so Hipstur is within
walking distance, but that’s no way to
make major life purchases. Sigh.
Chickpea
Hallveigarstígur 1
All heart and sunshine, this firm
Grapevine favourite has been making
delectably wholesome fare for a couple
years now and they never disap-
point. Sourdough pitas and flatbreads
encase crunchy fried falafel and vari-
ous salads and pickled toppings and
makes for a satisfying lunch that fuels
you through the day. Not everything is
vegan, but everything that is is deli-
cious. Don’t even think of walking
by on an empty stomach — the scent
wafting out of Chickpea will have you
drooling.
Brynja Ís
Engihjalli 8, Kópavogur
If you’ve eschewed dairy, but you miss
the classic Icelandic soft serve cone —
dipped in chocolate, of course — then
get thee to Kópavogur. The Akureyri
staple Brynja has two types of vegan
soft serve on offer (vanilla or coconut)
and an assortment of clearly-marked
vegan dips and mix-ins so you can
craft a bragðarefur with confidence.
Might we recommend an Oreo, cookie
dough, hazelnut combo?
SÆTA SVÍNIÐ / Hafnarstræti 1-3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is
990 1.690
HAPPIEST
HAPPY HOUR
IN REYKJAVÍK
ICELANDIC GASTROPUB
26 The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 1— 2023