Reykjavík Grapevine - ágú. 2023, Blaðsíða 20
The Reykjavík Grapevine 11 / 23 20Map
Á
LF
H
E
IM
A
R
G
O
Ð
H
E
IM
A
R
S
Ó
LH
E
IM
A
R
SKEIFAN
G
R
E
N
S
Á
S
V
E
G
U
R
SU
Ð
U
RLAN
D
SBR
AU
T
ÁRM
Ú
LI
ÁRMÚLI
SÍÐ
U
M
Ú
LI
FELLSMÚLI
H
Á
A
LEITISB
R
AU
TS
A
FA
M
Ý
R
I
LAUGAVEGUR
LAUGAVEGUR
ENGJATEIGUR
FLÓKAGATA
HÁTEIGSVEGUR
BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ
SKAFTAHLÍÐ
ÚTHLÍÐ
S
KÓ
G
A
R
H
LÍÐ
ES
K
IH
LÍÐ
BARMAHLÍÐ
STIGAHLÍÐ
MÁVAHLÍÐ
GRÆNAHLÍÐ
DRÁPUHLÍÐ
HAMRAHLÍÐ
VESTURHLÍÐ
BLÖNDUHLÍÐ
HÖRGSHLÍÐ
H
Á
A
H
L
ÍÐ
AUTARH
N
Ó
A
T
Ú
N
L
A
N
G
A
H
LÍ
Ð
S
TA
K
K
A
H
LÍ
Ð
S
TA
K
K
A
H
LÍ
Ð
S
TI
G
A
H
LÍ
Ð
R
E
Y
K
JA
H
LÍ
Ð
K
R
IN
G
LU
M
Ý
R
A
R
B
R
A
U
T
K
R
IN
G
L
U
M
Ý
R
A
R
B
R
A
U
T
Á
LF
TA
M
Ý
R
I
L
Á
G
M
Ú
LI
H
A
LL
A
R
M
Ú
LI
K
R
IN
G
L
U
M
Ý
R
A
R
B
R
A
U
T
R
A
U
Ð
A
R
Á
R
S
T
ÍG
U
R
R
A
U
Ð
A
R
Á
R
S
T
ÍG
U
R
Þ
V
E
R
H
O
LT
M
J
Ö
L
N
IS
H
.
Á
S
H
O
LT
S
T
Ú
F
H
.
T
R
A
Ð
A
R
H
.
G
U
N
N
A
R
S
B
R
A
U
T
N
Ó
AT
Ú
N
K
A
T
R
ÍN
A
R
T
Ú
N
I
Þ
Ó
R
U
N
N
A
R
T
Ú
N
STÓ
R
H
O
LT
M
EÐ
A
LH
O
LT
STA
N
G
A
R
H
O
LT
FÁLKAGATA
STURLUAGATA
EGGERTSGATA
LYNGHAGI
STARHAGI
STRÆTI
SKÓLABRÚ
LAUGAVEGUR
BR
OLT
HRINGBRAUT
N
A
U
TH
Ó
LS
V
EG
U
R
SKIPHOLT
VESTURVALLAGATA
MÝRAR GATA
HAFNARSTRÆTI
NÝLENDUGATA
HOFTEIGUR
KIRKJUTEIGUR
HRAUNTEIGUR
KIRKJUSANDUR
H
RÍS
ATEIG
U
R
LAU
G
ARN
ESVEG
U
R
SUNDLAUGAVEGUR BRÚNAVEGUR
V
E
S
T
U
R
B
R
Ú
N
A
U
S
T
U
R
B
R
Ú
N
R
E
Y
K
JA
V
E
G
U
R
LA
U
G
A
R
Á
SVEG
U
R
SUNNUVEGUR
S
K
IPA
S
U
N
D
HOLTAVEGUR
ENGJAVEGUR
EN
G
JAVEG
U
R
G
N
O
ÐARVO
G
U
R
LJÓ
SH
EIM
AR
EIR
ÍK
S
G
ATA
EG
ILSG
ATA
HVERFISGATA
LINDARGATA
SÖLVHÓLSGATA SKÚLAGATA
SÆ
BRAUT
SÆBRAUT
SÆ
BRAUT
HÓLSVEGUR
DYNGJUVEGUR
D
A
LB
R
A
U
T
K
A
M
B
S
V
E
G
U
R
H
JA
LL
A
V
E
G
U
R
L
A
N
G
H
O
LT
S
V
E
G
U
R
L
A
N
G
H
O
LTS
V
E
G
U
R
E
FS
TA
S
U
N
D
E
FS
TA
S
U
N
D
VESTURGARÐAR
KLETTAGARÐAR
VATNAGARÐAR
SUNDABORG
KLEPPSVEGUR
KLEPPSVEGUR
BORGARTÚN
BRÍETARTÚN
HÁTÚN
MIÐTÚN
SAMTÚN
SÓLTÚN
H
ÁTÚ
N
SIGTÚN
LAUGATEIGUR
LO
K
A
S
TÍG
U
R
BALDURSGATA
BRAGAGATA
V
IT
A
S
TÍ
G
U
R
B
A
R
Ó
N
S
S
TÍ
G
U
R
S
N
O
R
R
A
B
R
A
U
T
S
N
O
R
R
A
B
R
A
U
T
BARÓNSSTÍGUR
S
KÓ
LAVÖ
R
Ð
U
S
TÍG
U
R
L
A
U
FÁ
S
V
E
G
U
R
LAUFÁSVEG
UR
FJÖ
LN
ISVEG
U
R
FR
EYJU
G
ATA
S
Ó
LE
YJA
R
G
A
TA
NJÁLSGATA
GAMLA HRINGBRAUT
MIKLABRAUT
MIKLABRAUT
MIKLABRAUT
LISTABRAUT
OFANLEITI
VATNSMÝRARVEGUR
ÞORRAGATA
EINARSNES
BAUGANES
SKILDINGANES
B
Ú
S
TA
Ð
A
V
EG
U
R
SUÐURHLÍÐ
HRING
BRAUT
S
U
Ð
U
R
G
AT
A
H
RIN
G
BRAU
T
BERGÞÓRUGATA
FISKISLÓÐ
H
Ó
L
M
A
S
L
Ó
Ð
TJ
A
R
N
A
R
G
AT
A
S
U
Ð
U
R
G
AT
A
LJ
Ó
S
VA
LL
A
G
AT
A
H
Ó
LA
VA
LL
A
G
.
A
Ð
A
LS
TR
.
S
Æ
M
U
N
D
A
R
G
AT
A
B
IR
K
IM
ELU
R
FU
RU
M
ELU
R
ESPIM
ELUR
Æ
G
IS
G
A
TA
S
T
Ý
R
IM
A
N
N
A
S
TÍ
G
U
R
G
A
R
Ð
A
S
T
R
Æ
T
I
GRETTISGATA
FR
A
K
K
A
S
TÍ
G
U
R
NJARÐARGATA
NJARÐARGATA
N
A
U
T
H
Ó
L
S
V
E
G
U
R
FLUGVALLARVEGUR
M
E
N
N
TA
V
E
G
U
R
VA
TN
S
STÍ
G
U
R
K
L
A
P
P
A
R
S
T
ÍG
U
R
B
ER
G
S
TA
Ð
A
R
S
TR
Æ
TI
BERG
STAÐARSTRÆ
TI
F
R
ÍK
IR
K
J
U
V
E
G
U
R
P
Ó
S
TH
Ú
S
S
TR
Æ
TI
LÆ
KJA
RG
ATA
IN
G
Ó
LF
S
ST
RÆ
TI
Þ
IN
G
H
O
LT
S
S
T
RÆ
T
I
Ó
Ð
IN
S
G
AT
A
ÞÓ
R
S
G
ATA
VONARSTRÆTI
AUSTURSTR.
SKOTHÚSVEGUR
TRYGGVAGATA
GEIRSGATA
VESTURGATARÁNARGATA
BÁRUGATA
ÖLDUGATA
TÚNGATA
TÚNGATA
MARARG.
KIRKJU
SÓLVALLAGATA
SÓ
LVALLAG
ATA
H
O
LTS
G
A
TA
HÁVALLAGATA
HOLTSG.
ÁSVALLAG
ATA
REYN
IM
ELU
R
VÍÐ
IM
ELU
R
G
REN
IM
ELU
R
D
U
N
H
AG
I
A
R
A
G
AT
A
O
D
D
A
G
AT
A
H
AG
AM
ELU
R
HOFSVALLAGATA
ARSTÍG
U
R
BRÆ
ÐRABO
RG
FRAMNESVEGUR
SELJAVEGUR
ÁNANAUST
GRANDAGARÐUR
BANKASTR.
LAUGALÆ
KUR
KLETTAGARÐAR
G
RANDAVEG
UR
LÁ
G
H
O
LTS
V
EG
U
R
Æ
G
IS
ÍÐ
A
FORNHAGI
M
ELHAGI
NESHAGI
KAPLASKJÓLSVEGUR
MEISTARAVELLIR
ÁLAGRANDI
EIÐSGRANDI
H
R
IN
G
B
R
A
U
T
TÓ
M
A
S
A
R
H
A
G
I
K
V
IS
T
H
A
G
I
H
JA
R
Ð
A
R
H
AG
I
BSÍ
Nordic House
Culture Center
University
of Iceland
National
Museum
National
Library
Hólavallagarður
Cemetary
Austur-
völlur
Icelandic
Parliament
Reykjavík
Domestic
Airport
Terminal
Eagle Air
Terminal
Hlemmur
Food Hall
Sundhöllin
Swimming
Pool
Landsspítali
Hospital
Laugardalslaug
Swimming Pool
Laugardalur
Park
Sigurjón
Art
Museum
Viðey
ferry
Domestic Zoo
& Family Park
Botannical
Gardens
Reykjavík
Campsite
Kringlan
Shopping
Mall
Laugar-
dalshöll
Sports
Arena
Ásmundarsafn
Indoor
Skating
Rink
City
Hall
Hallgrímskirkja
ChurchListasafn
Einars
Jónssonar
Ásmundasalur
National
Theatre
The
Culture
House
Bíó
Paradís
Reykjavík
Art Museum
Maritime
Museum
Marshall
House
Grandi
Mathöll
FlyOver
Iceland
Saga
Museum
Harpa
Concert
Hall
Nauthólsvík
Beach
Perlan
Reykjavík
University
Kjarvalsstaðir
Museum
Hljómskála-
garður Park
National
Gallery
Aurora
Reykjavik
Vesturbæjarlaug
Swimming Pool
Klappið
app
The official ticketing app
for public buses in the
Reykjavík capital area
Search for "Klappid" in the
App Store or on Google Play.
Centre Map
We’re here to fill you in on our personal favourite places around town – and a few to consider avoiding.
Dining
1 NAPOLI
Tryggvagata 24
We love places that do one thing and
do them damn well. This take away
place is a case in point. Napoli offers
sourdough Neapolitan-style pizzas
with a menu to match – think margh-
erita, quattro formaggi,
parma, calzone – plus vegan options
and magnificent sandwiches. Look
out for their lunch offer, every day
from 11:30 to 15:00. JT
2 GAETA GELATO
Aðalstræti 6
& Hlemmur Mathöll
Gaeta Gelato is at the centre of a
heated ongoing debate at the Grape-
vine office about who makes the best
ice cream in the country. For those
keen on the deep tastiness of Italian
gelato, this place is IT. They are also
located right smack downtown, so
you can take that
icecream for a stroll – we suggest
a stroll to their other location for an-
other scoop. JT
3 PLANTAN
Njálsgata 64
This cute little neighborhood cafe is
100% vegan and does a few things
right: their soup of the day menu up-
dates every week and uses seasonal
produce, they mastered the plant-
based cheese bun recipe to per-
fection, and this might be the most
hearty vegan brunches in town. Look
out for the daily bun and coffee deal,
it truly is like a warm hug. IZ
5 CAFÉ BABALÚ
Skólavörðustígur 22
This quirky café hangout is a great
choice when you’re looking for a cozy,
chill experience. Decked with kitschy
decor and plush chairs, the café is
perfect for a refuge from an instant
shower of rain. If you’re looking to
snuggle up with a book and a good
cup of coffee, look no further. JB
6 BAN THAI
Laugavegur 130
The absolute GOAT – as they say
– in Thai cuisine in Reykjavík. Ban
Thai’s menu is dotted with little
symbols of chili, denoting the spice
level of each course. You’re welcome
to order a level-5 chili course, but do
so at your own risk. JB
7 GRÁI KÖTTURINN
Hverfisgata 16a
This no-nonsense downtown staple
has been serving Reykjavík dwellers
quality breakfast food since 1997.
Tucked away in a cute cellar, the
diner boasts retro Icelandic design
charm, while its menu is far from out-
dated. Pancakes, bagels and frying
oil all have their special place at Grái
Kötturinn. As Grái Kötturinn closes at
14:30 every day, it’s
not a place for nighthawks, but
early-birds. JB
8 CHICKPEA
Hallveigarstígur 1
This Mediterranean-inspired
restaurant is a great place for a quick
bite. Servings are generous and the
food nutritious, meaning you’ll go
full well into the day. They do wraps,
falafels, and all kinds of salads ex-
ceptionally well. Prices aren’t ex-
tremely steep, but nothing to write
home about either. JB
9 KRÓNAN
Hallveigarstígur 1 & more
locations
If you’re ever in a pinch while looking
for something cheap to eat if you’re
downtown just go to Krónan and pick
out some flatkökur. Flatkökur goes
great with everything. Be it the Med-
iterranean/Icelandic fusion of lather-
ing some with hummus, or turn it into
a poor-man’s pizza with pizza sauce
and cheese. Honestly, the flatkaka is
an empty canvas for you to paint your
wildest dreams on. JB
10 JÓMFRÚIN
Lækjargata 4, 101 Reykjavík
Icelanders may have a love-hate
relationship with the Danes, but let’s
be honest, who can resist craving a
delicious smørrebrød every now and
then? If you get what we are talking
about, there’s no better place in town
for an authentic Danish smørrebrød
than Jómfrúin. This family-run res-
taurant specializes in serving Danish
and Scandinavian dishes, and to top
it off, it boasts a fantastic outdoor
terrace where you can relax, sip a
beer and complain about politics
overlooking the Icelandic parliament.
IZ
Drinking
11 APERÓ VÍNBAR
Laugavegur 20b
A wine bar that is both opulent and
accessible? Yes please. The small
team at Aperó remember the orders
of regulars and make first-timers feel
like regulars. If you know what you
like, Aperó will tick your boxes; and
if you’re new to wine, the sommelier
will soon unite you with your ideal
glass. CF
12 KEX HOSTEL
Skúlagata 28
The former biscuit factory now
serves as a trendy hostel, with a bar,
restaurant and a live concert space.
There’s always something going
on, and if not, it’s a great spot to grab
those after-work drinks. With
a rotation of foreign tourists who
stumble onto a heavy metal show
happening in the restaurant, you’re
always bound for an enjoyable
experience. JB
13 KAFFIBARINN
Bergstaðastræti 1
No words are needed for Kaffi barinn.
The hangout spot for the who’s who
of Reykjavík. Frequented by Blur
members in the 90s, drug dealers,
and middle-managers,
Kaffibarinn is an establishment
in itself. JB
14 VITABAR
Bergþórugata 21, Iceland
If you’re staying in Reykjavík more
than a few days, you ought to find
your own dive bar – this is ours. It
seems like the time froze at Vitabar,
but we love it that way. People come
for their famous blue cheese burger,
but stay for a few pints and deli-
cious fries. Sometimes I wish Vitabar
discovered craft beer, but I go back
nevertheless – for a late night bite
and Thule on draft. IZ
15 VÍNSTÚKAN TÍU SOPAR
Laugavegur 27
There are a few bars in Reykjavík that
have learned how to do wine right,
and Vínstúkan Tíu sopar, although
located in the middle of the chaos
and tourist buzz of Laugavegur, is
one of them. Craving Pét-nat? In the
mood for orange wine? Ready to ex-
plore small Slovenian wineries? You
name it – the bar’s staff will be ready
to come up with suggestions that will
suit any pocket. Don’t get me started
on their small bites to pair with wine
– I’m already dreaming about their
grilled peppers and torched broccoli
with salted lemon. IZ
Shopping
& Activities
16 BÍÓ PARADÍS
Hverfisgata 54
Sometimes the smell of popcorn fills
the air of Hverfisgata, as if
beckoning you to come inside.
You succumb and find yourself in the
cutest art house cinema with
colourful posters on the walls and
vintage-looking bar straight outta
Wes Anderson movie. There’s
always a film screening and you rare-
ly need to book tickets in
advance, so enjoy the old school
walk-in experience and one of the
best Happy Hours in town. IZ
Random Spots
17 EINARSGARÐUR
Laufásvegur 79
This little green space nestled into
the curving juncture of Laufásvegur
and Gamla Hringbraut is an oasis
in the city. Exposed to full sun
seemingly all the time, it’s a peaceful
spot to stroll through, climb trees,
luxuriate on the grass or toss the
ball for your four-legged friend. Don’t
do that last thing, though. It’s not
allowed. CF
Be Warned
18 101 BISTRO
Austurstræti 3
The bistro on the corner of Ingólfs-
torg and Austurstræti that has a
plaque outside saying, “Come in and
try the worst [insert popular food
item] that one guy on Trip advisor said
we had”, or something like that. It’s
a trap, do not go there. That plaque
has been in the same spot ever since
Hrunið. RG
19 SBARRO
Austurstræti 17 &
Vatnsmýrarvegur 10
“What is this shit?” is how Greil
Marcus famously opened his review
of Bob Dylan’s 1970 album in Roll-
ing Stone. It is appropriate here. It
looks like pizza, it is sold as pizza, it’s
priced like foie gras, but it tastes
like salted shit. Avoid. RG
20 REYKJAVÍK FISH
RESTAURANT
Tryggvagata 8
Our beef with this place has to do
with their “plokkari” (Traditional
Icelandic Fish Stew). The fish stew is
what you make out of fish left overs
and potatoes, adding bechamel
sauce, topped with cheese and then
baked. It’s generally a good dish, a
great way to avoid wasting food and
it costs next to nothing
to make. Taste wise, there is
nothing wrong with how Reykjavík
Fish makes their “plokkari”, the prob-
lem is that the volume you get for the
price is un acceptable; a
tiny cast iron pan of fish stew for
2.690 ISK. An outrage. RG
21 LEBOWSKI BAR
Laugavegur 20a
A joke that’s gone too far. The long-
est lasting theme bar that sprung up
during a theme-bar craze many years
ago. The Dude does not abide. RG
13
PHOTOS FROM
ICELAND
Skólavörðustígur 22
D
A