Reykjavík Grapevine - aug 2023, Qupperneq 29

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Climb Every
Mountain Reaching The Sky
A how-to guide to hikes around Reykjavík
gain from the trailhead to the most
common destination, the boulder
aptly named “Steinn,” lends you
about 600 metres in elevation. The
roundtrip is approximately seven
kilometres. During clear weather, it
is possible to hike slightly farther, to
Þverfellshorn. That extra route won’t
add too much to your trip – you’ll
clearly see the peak from Steinn, but
it requires some climbing and the
assistance of bolted-on chains.
As Esjan is accessible from multiple
directions, there are various trails
to choose from. However, the most
straightforward and popular route
starts just when you drive past Mos-
fellsbær. About five kilometres past
Mosfellsbær, you’ll see an exit to the
right to Esjan’s trailhead. There you’ll
find a parking lot, usually half full.
Once you’ve managed to climb
Queen Esja, marvel at the view it
offers you. This is the best view you
can get of Reykjavík. On a clear day,
you can even see all the way to Keilir
in Reykjanes.
MÓSKARÐSHNJÚKAR: ES-
JA’S EVIL TWIN
Slightly east of Esja is a series of
peaks named Móskarðshnjúkar.
These peaks have long tricked the
citizens of Reykjavík during wet
seasons into thinking that sunshine
is on its way. Due to their geological
formation, the rhyolite peaks seem
to be constantly bathed in the sun.
It’s an especially warming sight on
cold days.
This is a fairly challenging, but ac-
cessible hike. It totals about six kilo-
metres round-trip, with approximate-
ly 700 metres of elevation. The most
popular trailhead starts from the
south. From Mosfellsbær, instead of
driving north towards Esja, turn right
onto Þingvallavegur (Route 36). Head
straight for about seven kilometres
and turn left onto a gravel road with
a sign saying Hrafnhólar. From there,
you’ll drive past the farms Skegg-
jastaðir and Hrafnhólar, until you’ll
follow the road to the right, where
you’ll end up at a parking lot by the
trailhead.
Like all hikes, Móskarðshnjúkar be-
comes more treacherous during the
winter. It is prone to avalanches and
many hikers have become injured. In
2020, an avalanche even led to the
death of a young hiker.
ÚLFARSFELL: STANDING
ON THE SHOULDERS OF
GIANTS
Standing tall on the border of Mos-
fellsbær and Reykjavík is Úlfarsfell
– a 296-metre-high mountain that
seems puny compared to its neigh-
bours. There was once a farm there,
which was deserted around the year
1900. You can still find the ruins if
you look closely.
Úlfarsfell is a fairly easy hike and a
nice outing for the family. The hike
is about three kilometres round-trip.
The trailhead is very close to the
main road connecting Reykjavík and
Mosfellsbær. From Reykjavík, you’ll
enter a roundabout from where you’ll
take the first exit to the right. Voilá!
You’re at the trailhead. The Forest-
ry Association of Mosfellsbær has
grown trees there since the early
20th century, so the start of the hike
leads you into a nice collection of
evergreens. Once out of the copse,
you’ll hike up a pretty barren envi-
ronment for the rest of the trip. The
round-trip takes on average about
90 minutes and grants you a spec-
tacular view of the cityscape.
HELGAFELL:  A LESS-
ER-KNOWN GEM
If you want to skip the trip to Mos-
fellsbær – I won’t blame you – there
are more hikes available near Haf-
narfjörður. Helgafell is one of the
more popular mountains to hike
within the capital area. But it means
you’ll have to go to Hafnarfjörður.
Pros and cons, people.
Driving into Hafnarfjörður, head in
the direction of Keflavík until you
reach a looped intersection tak-
ing you to Kaldársel. Drive until you
reach the road Kaldárselsvegur
which ultimately takes you out of
civilisation. You’ll reach the trail’s
parking lot.
Although the elevation isn’t much
to write home about – approximate-
ly 250 metres – the trail becomes
steep. The more popular route leads
you into a small crevice, where your
hand and foot coordination is tested.
No worries though, it’s not a climb in
any sense of the word.
Continue upwards to be rewarded
with a beautiful panoramic view over
Reykjanes and the capital area.
A WELL-DESERVED REST
Once you’ve finished these hikes –
yes, all these hikes – give yourself a
pat on the back. Your muscles will
be sore tomorrow, which is a per-
fect time to hit up one of the local
swimming pools. There will be an air
of smugness around you and you’ll
want to tell everyone what hikes you
got up to last weekend. Don’t resist
the urge. Tell them. Send them a
friend request on Strava. After all,
you are better than most. Congratu-
lations.
These peaks have long tricked
the citizens of Reykjavík during
wet seasons into thinking that
sunshine is on its way.