Lögberg-Heimskringla - 18.10.1996, Side 7

Lögberg-Heimskringla • Föstudagur 18, október 1996 • 7
The National Dress
Still Popular
During the last winter and
summer Icelandic handicrafts
and hand-work of many
kinds, from all areas of Iceland, have
been the focus of attention at the
Corner Room of the Icelandic Handi-
crafts Association. The Icelandic
National Dress was featured at a six
day workshop where the making of
and caring for various articles
connected to it, such as the em-
broidered ribbons, and pillow lace
ribbons, done with metal threaders,
was demonstrated. One of the many
visitors attending the workshop was
the Morgunblaðið journalist for the
“Daily Life” page, with the purpose
of becoming a bit more knowledge-
able about the Icelandic National
Dress.
At the Corner Room two women
were busy embroidering, with others
demonstrating how to repair and re-
new an old bodice dress “upphlutur.”
Today four types of the National
Dress for women is used in Iceland.
They are: the bodice national dress,
(upphlutur), jacket costume,
(peysuföt), a high festive costume
(skautbúningur) and a kirtle (kyrtill).
Three of the first mentioned are
similar to those worn by women in
centuries past, but the kirtle was
designed in 1870 by Sigurður
Guðmundsson, founder of the
National Museum and an artist. He
used a Medieval kirtle design as a
model. Today most Icelandic women
choose the bodice national dress
which gets its name from a distinctive,
sleeveless, laced bodice. The jacket
dress on the other hand is named for
the black, close cut, long sleeved
sweater-jacket. The skirts are the
same, ankle length, made from black
wool broadcloth or satin. The “skaut-
búningur” draws its name from the
head gear worn with it.
One of the instructors at the
Corner Room is Guðbjörg Inga
Hrafnsdóttir, who was demonstrating
embroidered ribbons used on the back
and shoulders of both childreris and
adult dresses. The ribbons are most
often embroidered with gold or silver
metal threads, but sometimes from
wool thread. Guðbjörg has six
different patterns which she learned
from Anna Sigurðardóttir, teacher at
the Handicrafts School. Anna has
obtained her patterns directly from the
National Museum. Pillow lacing is a
precise job which requires patience
and practice. It can take about 10
hours to do one dress.
At the next table over from
Guðbjörg was Guðrún Einardóttir
doing her special embroidery called
“baldyring” on velvet ribbons used for
the bodice costume. The silver and
gold embroidered ribbons go on the
front of the bodice costume. Some-
times filigree or other silver decora-
tions are used on these ribbons instead
of the embroidery.
Guðrún said that “baldyring”
mainly takes patience and she feels it
must have been difficult for women
in centuries past who did not have
electrical lights. Guðrún stresses the
importance of preserving this ancient
type of embroidery which has ac-
companied the “upphlutur” bodice
costume and “skautbúningur” from
the beginning of times. Various
patterns are available, but Guðrún
feels certain traditions must be kept.
Many women dug out old
National Dresses, caps, “skotthúfa” or
other articles accompanying it and
brought them to the show. But this was
precisely the purpose of the work-
shop, to give information and advice
on how to renew and care for old
pieces and make new ones. This was
evidenced at one end of the Corner
Room where Oddny Kristjánsdóttir,
instructor from the Home Handicrafts
School sat demonstrating how to
renew a tassle from an old cap.
Guðbjörg and Guðrún pointed out
that the National Dress is gaining
popularity for wearing at special
occasions, not only at historic anni-
versaries such as the National
Independence Day, but also at confir-
mations, graduations, etc. They also
emphasize saving pieces from old
dresses as they can be used with new
ones.
The Morgunblaðið journalist left
with this information, determined to
rummage through her mother’s and
grandmother’s closets in search of old
caps, embroidered ribbons or even an
“upphlutur.” □
Translated by Gunnur Isfeld
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Continued from page 4
Dogged
Determination
Council then, and Dr. Cadham, the
City of Winnipeg Medical Health
Officer, said, “With a sprained ankle,
you had better not be out canvassing
or running about.”
At that point, I took to the phone.
Perhaps a little foolishly, I decided that
if I did not walk to Daniel Mclntyre
High School to vote, despite my sore
ankle, we did not deserve to win the
election. So strong was my deter-
mination to win, I walked over to vote,
having more fire than reason.
Part Three continued in
the next issue
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