Reykjavík Grapevine - 23.07.2004, Blaðsíða 36

LIFE BEYOND GULLFOSS
by Jónas Moody
For most travellers, the southern coast of Iceland ends after their
whirlwind tour of Gullfoss, Geysir, and Þingvellir. However, push-
ing past Selfoss on route offers one a wealth of unusual landscapes
and natural peculiarities. The area can be well explored in two days
(one day out and one day back to Reykjavík) with plenty of time at
any site that catches your eye. This is dominated by the Vatnajökull
glacier (Europe’s largest) and almost all the curious land formations
are in some way a result of this icy beast. While this area is far less
frequented than the area of the coast closer to Reykjavík, accom-
modations and other necessities become few and far between. Make
reservations and, most importantly, gas up when and where you
can. A good place to start is at the pink gas station as you come into
Selfoss. It’s probably the cheapest on the southern coast right now.
OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK
From mighty death blow to a
slap in the face
The landscape between Selfoss
and Vík is fairly uniform, verdant
farmland with an occasional glimpse
of ocean. This is the setting for the
majority of Njáls Saga, probably the
best known of the Icelandic sagas.
The Better Half of the Southern Coast Pt 1
To pass the time, I suggest read-
ing a few of the more action packed
passages about banahögg (mighty
death blow) and kinnhestur (saucy
slap across the face) to put you in
the mood for the region. The Saga
Center in Hvolsvöllur is fairly good
at satisfying those who are curious
about life in the Viking age, but I
think one’s time is better spent at
one of the outdoor sights. Beyond
Hvolsvöllur, the landscape becomes
far more interesting, driving between
black sands and tall cliffs with
countless waterfalls trickling over
the edges. Keep your eyes peeled for
caves and turf houses set into the
rock. Skógafoss is a brilliant waterfall
just off the road. If your lungs and
nerves are up to it, climb the precari-
ous iron stairs up to the top of the
falls. Just before Vík is a turnoff for
Dyrhólaey, a nature reserve com-
prised of massive cliffs, natural rock
arch, some rock columns, and about
a trillion puffins and arctic terns. It’s
truly stunning and worth a gander,
even if only for fifteen minutes.
Having a drink and dancing on
graves
The approach to Vík is lovely,
driving through tall, green valleys,
dotted with sheep. The town itself
is nestled where the valley meets the
sea, straight out of a salad dressing
commercial. On the weekends, the
town cemetery situated high above
the town on a hill becomes a popular
drinking spot/dance party/make-out
point for the younger and rowdier
folks in Vík, who are quite friendly
once they’ve got a little alcohol in
them and a few graves to dance on.
It’s no wonder the people of Vík
share such intimacy with their dead;
living in Vík is flirting with disaster
- the town is situated at the foot of
a glacier with a volcano underneath
it. Norður-Vík is a nice but very
small hostel that fills up unless you
book well in advance. If you can’t
find accommodation here, the next
hostel, Hvoll, is rather large and just
past Kirkjubæjarklaustur. But before
leaving Kirjubæjarklaustur, fill up
with gas if you need it. This is the
last town before entering Skeiðarár-
sandur, Iceland’s mini-badlands.
Hvoll is set on a farm and run by a
very nice lady, but the real charmer is
the farm dog, who has the body of a
normal dog and the legs of dachs-
hund. With Napoleonic fierceness
for something so little, he terrifies
the waterfowl and puts on a real
show for all the guests. Get a good
night’s sleep. Day two is even more
spectacular than day one...
...( to be continued)
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