Reykjavík Grapevine - 19.06.2009, Blaðsíða 29

In Kópavogur, high up on the
nineteenth floor of the Deloitte
building, is Nítjánda, the baby of swank
chef Sigurður Gíslason. It feels like an
event, walking through the automatic
turning doors, riding the elevator to the
top of the building, and emerging into
calm and sleek surroundings, where a
well-suited host greets you with much
formal circumstance.
My lunch guest and I were seated
quickly, and briefly took in the view
over the rolling hills and suburbs of
Kópavogur before approaching the
buffet, which changes themes and
offerings on a daily basis. We were
presented with a spread of maki rolls,
beef, chicken and fish-based dishes,
buttery-soft sweet potatoes and pasta.
There was also a salad bar featuring
two different potato salads, beef chow
mein, a tangy tomato chutney, and
cream of broccoli soup.
We sampled every dish. Some
more than once. Every bite was
satisfying and flavoured and seasoned
so well that I presume almost all
tastes would be met. Stand-outs were
the sushi, the rice therein was nicely
vinegared, the maki was tightly and
neatly rolled and beautifully presented
in a thick layer of black sesame seeds;
the chicken in honey-garlic sauce,
which was surprisingly moist and
succulent in a sauce that was neither
too sweet nor too garlicky; and the
broccoli soup that was creamy and
comforting. What’s more, the flavours
of all the buffet components worked
well alongside one another, nothing
competed with or overpowered
anything else on the plate – in the
case of the fish, which was slightly
bland, some competition would have
been welcome. Still, it was clear that
much thought and planning went
into preparing the day’s menu so that
everything was complimentary.
Though satisfied with the trips
made to the buffet, my companion and
I decided it would be unwise to leave
Nítjánda without also partaking of the
dessert table, which tempted with a
fruit platter, spiced apple cake with
whipped cream, and a fruity meringue
cake. It was all every bit as enjoyable
as the savoury offerings had been,
but the star of the dessert table was
unanimously decided to be the spiced
apple cake, the crisp golden top of
which contrasted magnificently with
the über-moist and delicate centre. We
had seconds… but in our defence it
was necessary to confirm that the cake
would compliment coffee splendidly.
And it does.
The food at Nítjánda was
intelligent and satisfying and the
atmosphere was upscale, but not
pretentiously so. This would be a fine
venue for dining on special occasions,
especially since such impressive
views are difficult to come by in the
Reykjavík area.
-CATHARINE FULTON
Nítjánda
Smáratorg 3
Flavour: Smart, subtle Asian fusion
Ambiance: Sleek,modern upscale
Service: Formal but friendly
Savoury Food and Sweet Views
An upscale buffet worth visiting, multiple times
What we think:
Smart, subtle, sublime food.
Pizza
1 Eldsmiðjan
Bragagata 38a
When it comes to Reykjavík Pizza, Eldsmiðjan
is in a league of its own (even though their
recent expansion has seen them cut back in
quality), which leads us to proclaim: if you’re
only going to have a single pizza in Reykjavík,
make sure it’s from Eldsmiðjan. Something
about their fire-baked pie makes them really
stand out. Even though it comes with a rather
hefty price tag. We recommend the Reykjavík
Special or the Hekla. Or chef’s choice. It’s
all good.
2 Devitos Pizza
Laugavegur 126
Devitos Pizza have built their business on
selling the masses tasty, oily, affordable pizza
at most hours of the day. Given that they
serve you a fresh slice, and that you douse it
in their excellent garlic oil (and top it off with
a bunch of cayenne pepper, if thus inclined),
you will surely become as fascinated with
Devitos as the rest of us are.
3 Hornið
Hafnarstræti 15
Italian restaurant Hornið serves up classic,
thin-crust Italian pizza in a charming
environment that begs for extended
lounging about. One of the oldest operating
restaurants in Reykjavík, Hornið has been
selling consistently excellent pizza since
they opened way back in 1979. Try the Pizza
Roma, or pretty much anything else off the
menu.
Cheap Eats
1 Núðluhúsið
Laugavegi 59
Núðluhúsið offers up a mean plate of Pad
Thai, big enough to comfortably serve two
and just right in the taste department. We’d
surely recommend some of their other dishes,
but frankly we’re too tempted to just get the
Pad Thai every time we go there. As an added
bonus, the place is as close to dirt-cheap as
you get in Reykjavík.
2 Balkanika
Vitastígur 10
This Bulgarian restaurant is probably the
cheapest sit-down restaurant in Reykjavík
at the time of writing. In fact, it’s ludicrously
cheap, with most of the specials going for
around or under 1.000 ISK. And the Bulgarian
take on fast food is definitely worth exploring.
Carnivores should get something off their
BBQ menu, while the Balkan shopska salad is
well fit for vegetarians.
3 Saffran
Álfheimum 74 (Glæsibær)
People can’t stop raving about recently
opened “cheap and healthy” fast food joint
Saffran. So we checked it out, and now we
can’t stop raving either. What a find! We’ve
been going there for a month and have
tried most of their menu. Everything’s good.
The pizza, the tandoori, the ‘naanwich’, the
burgers. It’s all good, as in, excellent. The
price is right, too, ranging from 700-1.400 ISK
per course. And it also feels super-healthy.
Highly recommended.
Coffee
1 Café Haiti
Tryggvagata 16
The coffee is plain excellent, the atmosphere
enticing and the price is right. These are
some of the reasons why Café Haiti is one of
Grapevine’s favourite downtown cafés. Café
Haiti inhabits a tiny space next to Thai haven
Krua Thai on Tryggvagata. It’s almost hidden.
So if you haven’t tried their coffee yet, we
do recommend you take a walk down to the
harbour and taste a cup.
2 Kaffifélagið
Skólavörðustígur 10
Kaffifélagið is an extremely likable little
coffeeshop at a very convenient downtown
location. They make their coffee according
to the Italian Espresso Council’s standards,
their interior decorations are black, and
their staff (when you're lucky) is usually very
knowledgeable about the product they sell.
Try their double latté for a morning kick.
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information.
Viking hotel
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For booking and further information:
Tel.: (+354) 565-1213
vikings@vikingvillage.is - www.vikingvillage.is
Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur
TAKE YOUR TASTE BUDS AROUND THE WORLD IN ONE NIGHT!
The restaurant Fish Company is the newest addition to
VEGETARIAN CUISINE
Skólavörðustígur 8 b, tel. 552 2028
Open from 11:30 am–21:00 pm
www.graennkostur.is