Reykjavík Grapevine - 03.06.2011, Side 2

Reykjavík Grapevine - 03.06.2011, Side 2
120 g Lamburger (lamb), garlic grilled mushrooms, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, red onion, sauce Béarnaise and french fries. Those who taste The Lamburger will hardly be able to believe their taste buds. THE LAMBURGER Turninn Höfðatorgi 105 Reykjavik Tel: 575 7575 Opening hours: Sun-Wed. 11.00–22.00 Thu-Sat. 11.00–24.00 fabrikkan@fabrikkan.is www.fabrikkan.is Gullfoss and Geysir are surely a must-see in Iceland, but neither is something you eat. That’s why we have 13 brilliant and creative hamburgers at Hamborgarafabrikkan (The Icelandic Hamburger Factory). Hamborgarafabrikkan would eat Hard Rock Café for breakfast, but since there is no Hard Rock Café in Iceland we eat our original Lamburger with the wonderful Icelandic lamb. The Reykjavík Grapevine awarded Hamborgarafabrikkan the “Best Specialty Burger 2010”. It made us happy. Because we aim to please. That’s why we only use 100% fresh high-quality ingredients, directly from the Icelandic nature. Attention: Our hamburger buns are not round. They are square. Does it taste better? You tell us. Be square and be there. BE SQUARE AND BE THERE 2 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 7 — 2011 Editorial | Haukur S. Magnússon The Reykjavík GRapevine Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is grapevine@grapevine.is Published by Fröken ehf. www.froken.is Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association www.saf.is Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Editor: Haukur S Magnússon / haukur@grapevine.is Journalist: Anna Andersen / anna@grapevine.is Editorial: +354 540 3600 / editor@grapevine.is advErtising: +354 540 3605 / ads@grapevine.is PublishEr: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / hilmar@grapevine.is +354 540 3601 / publisher@grapevine.is Contributing WritErs: James Ashworth Haukur Már Helgason Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson Paul Fontaine Madeleine T. Anna Solé Sans Marc Vincenz Bob Cluness Vanessa Schipani Valur Gunnarsson Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson Ragnar Egilsson Egill Helgason Sindri Eldon Ellen Blumenstein Editorial intErns: Maroesjka Lavigne / maroesjka@grapevine.is José Angel Hernández García / jose@grapevine.is S. Alessio Tummolillo / alessio@grapevine.is on-linE nEWs Editor Paul Fontaine / paul@grapevine.is art dirECtor: Hörður Kristbjörnsson / hoddi@grapevine.is dEsign: Páll Hilmarsson / pallih@kaninka.net PhotograPhEr: Hörður Sveinsson / hordursveinsson.com salEs dirECtor: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / adalsteinn@grapevine.is Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / grs@grapevine.is Helgi Þór Harðarson / helgi@grapevine.is distribution managEr: Þórður Guðmundur Hermannsson distribution@grapevine.is ProofrEadEr: Jim Rice PrEss rElEasEs: listings@grapevine.is submissions inquiriEs: editor@grapevine.is subsCriPtion inquiriEs: +354 540 3605 / subscribe@grapevine.is gEnEral inquiriEs: grapevine@grapevine.is foundErs: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Valur Gunnarsson The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðis- fjörður, Borgarnes, Kef lavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres in the country. You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored (no articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). OH NO! It’s happening again! OH NO! I T ' S H A P P E N I N G AG A I N ! THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND www.grapevine.is TRAVEL Take them on, on your own! Did Spain get all 'Inspired by Iceland'? FOOD Are Icelanders made of svið? MUSIC GusGus come splashing back! ART What are we doing at the Venice Biennale? NEWS IN THE ISSUE Issue 7 • 2011 • June 3 - 16 2011 COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE!+ People usually don't fret when Iceland's most active volcano, Grímsvötn, starts spewing a little lava. After all, it happens every few years—volcanic activity is a fact of life on our remote rock in the North-Atlantic, and has been since way before any life forms made it there. When Grímsvötn did its usual thing last week, however, people got pretty spooked... and who can blame them, what with last year's Eyjamafjalladoodadodahecronöküll troubles and all? We report what went down, and share some interesting eruption truths. Page 19 I c e l a n d : S u c c e s s f u l l y t r o l l i n g t h e r e s t o f t h e w o r l d s i n c e ( a t l e a s t ) 1 0 0 0 B C Four years ago, I wrote and researched a monstrous article that probably none of you read (‘The Crazy World of the Quota System (somewhat) Explained’, issue 11 2007). You likely didn’t read it because it purported to be an explora- tion-slash-explanation of ‘the crazy world of Iceland’s fish- ing quota system’, it was really long and technical at times, and Iceland’s fishing quota system is not a very interesting topic to most of you (in fact, most of you have probably stopped reading by now). (Sidenote: if you are an Icelander and the fishing quota system isn’t interesting to you, more power to you, but do keep in mind that—regardless of the ‘creative industries’ (i.e. CCP’s) contribution—fisheries and how they are man- aged are pivotal to how life on this island will evolve, and by ignoring this you are basically ignoring every other is- sue that your might or should care deeply about. It all goes back to fishing). However, as an Icelander, not being interested in the fishing quota system, how it works, who it benefits, who it affects negatively and how it does all those things is fairly understandable. It has been a heavily debated point of contention for this nation for well over two decades, and it is usually discussed, no, shouted about in a most boring, technical, complicated and obfuscated manner. A com- plex, million year old argument that people like to engage in by shouting unclear technicalities and odd sounding words at one another? Sign me up! But not really. Why am I bringing this up? Well, Iceland’s government is currently trying to restructure the quota system in an ostensibly revolutionary manner. The proposed change is far removed from what the parties in charge promised in their campaign literature and speeches, but it seemingly still goes further in changing the controversial system to- wards something that might at some point prove superior to the one we have been embroiled in for far too long. I say ‘seemingly’ since no one appears very sure of what it means exactly, and the opposing parties in this debate (the government and The Federation of Icelandic Fishing Vessel Owners, respectively) are both fighting heated PR campaigns to ensure their interests—the gov- ernment wants people to think that it is keeping its cam- paign promises and being all hardcore (because this will maybe make people vote for it again) and TFOIFVO wants people to think the sky will fall if the system is changed (because it will mean this ultra-rich-ultra-powerful inter- est group will stand to lose a lot of its money and power, which is funny because if there’s one thing they’ve proved repeatedly over the last few decades is that they are hor- rible businessmen that deserve neither money nor power). I won’t claim to fully comprehend the quota system, and I won’t claim to fully comprehend the implications of the proposed bill (again, finding a neutral assessment of it is really difficult, because—like in so many cases nowa- days—the only people that seem to care have much vested interest in how it is perceived. We need a journalist, stat!). However, I will make some claims about my own position, based on what I have learned from being raised in a small fishing community and also from following news and stuff, and also having my fishing captain grandfather yell at me about it. In Q and A form. Right now. It’s what I think. Is a fishing quota system necessary? Of course! There is a limited amount of fish in the ocean (despite what you might have heard), and if we plan on going about harvesting it for food and profit, we will need to ensure that we don’t, like, catch every fish out there. That might render fish extinct! Of course we need to con- trol how much is caught annually, and we need to do this based on sound scientific research and evidence. What’s wrong with the current fishing quota system? Nothing much. But then, so much. The problem isn’t that we have a system to control how much fish we fish, the problem lies in the execution. What’s wrong with the execution then? Well, firstly, the way the quota was handed out in the be- ginning is, at best, suspect. Perpetual rights to uncaught fish in the ocean were handed over to fisheries and ves- sels in the early eighties based on previous years’ ‘fishing experience’. If you wanted to start your own fishery after that, you had to buy or rent quota from the folks it had been allotted to initially. Didn’t that make quota disproportionately valuable compared to caught and processed fish? Yes, but that maybe wasn’t a problem. Until 1990, when they made the quota into a tradeable, mortgageable as- set, effectively creating a ‘stock market’ for the sale and renting of fishing quota. Picture this: you own a fishery and some trawlers. And a lot of debt. Their total value is x million ISK, and your total debt is double that. You now suddenly have an intangible asset (“the right to catch, pro- cess and sell an x amount of fish annually) that you were given in the early eighties and that you may now mortgage, rent or sell for very tangible rewards. This is your personal property; the fishermen, workers and community who contributed to the ‘fishing experience’ that earned you the quota in the first place have no claim to it. You may do with it as you will. And I am free to sell, rent or mortgage it as I will? I can sell it sans boat or fishery or staff? You sure can! In fact, you can sell it without paying off the debt of your fishery, which will be unable to function without the quota and will have to rent overpriced quota in order to operate, maybe from the very people you sold it to! And I get to keep the money? Yeah. Pretty much. It isn’t heavily taxed. There’s now a nominal ‘resource tax’, but it’s... not very high. You can sell that quota and move to a warmer climate, leaving the com- munity that fostered you to wither away. Or! You can invest in Reykjavík real estate development, shopping malls and banks (interestingly enough, almost none of the infamous ‘quota sellers’ went on to invest in the communities that fostered them)! You can even use it to buy a bank and transform it into a hedge fund if you want! In fact, neolib- eral mogul Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson has remarked many times that making the quota into a tradeable asset was a prerequisite of the financial bubble we all know and love (in the aforementioned article: “It has created a lot of capital, and is one of the explanations for the accumulation of capital abroad [...] the fish stocks [that] were a com- mon good before, and therefore valueless, as all common goods are, became a private good, and got valuable”). Sounds great! I’ve also heard that this makes fishing more efficient, as the quota accumulates to those best fit to management, and thus creates more value for society. What a great deal! Well, define value. I keep thinking back to 2007, when a couple of Norwegian officials visited Iceland to investigate the transferable quota system (Norwegians already have a fishing quota system, their quota’s just not ‘transferable’). There had been a lot of pressure in Norway to adopt the Icelandic system of tradeability, and these guys were sent here to research if it was a good idea. After travelling the country for months, conducting their research, they were interviewed by RÚV radio show Spegillinn on their way home. They were asked: “Will you recommend Norway adopt our system?” Their reply: “No. While we have discerned that it does create a lot of capital, and we are interested in capital, we are also interested in keeping our small fishing towns populated. We feel that is efficient and valuable, too. If we were to recommend it, we would make sure that quota trading would be limited to larger fisheries and vessels selling to smaller ones, as it seems to have accumulated in a few large fisheries in Iceland. And this seems to have had a negative effect on your fishing towns”. So what you’re saying is... A system to control how much fish we catch is very im- portant. Creating an intangible, yet tradeable, rentable and mortgageable commodity is not. It might appear efficient It appears the verdict is in: with ‘Arabian Horse’, beloved electro legends GusGus have crafted a masterpiece of a record, with mesmerising tunes, stomping rhythms and some hypnotic melodies. Folks are already claiming it’s 2011’s strongest AL- BUM OF THE YEAR contender thus far (with only FM Belfast on the horizon posing a threat when ‘I Don’t Want To Sleep’ drops). Indeed, Grapevine reviewer Ragnar Egilsson calls it “a perfect anthemic pop record” in his five star review, which you may read on page 24 of this issue. At the Grapevine offices, we’ve been blasting ‘Arabian Horse’ since we got our advance copy a few weeks ago—and we’re not the least interested in changing the playlist or turning it down yet. For this issue’s TRACK, we decided to ask Gus- Gus master Biggi Veira to make us a medley of the album, so all you readers can hear what the fuss is about. Biggi sat down and seamlessly mixed the ten ‘Dark Horse’ tracks into a smoothly flowing sampler. Download and listen up, preferably on some nice headphones. GUSGUS ARABIAN HORSE SAMPLER TRACK OF THE ISSUE Download at www.grapevine.is PANEL 3 INSIDE PANEL 1 FRONT COV ER C M Y B C M Y B C M Y B C M Y B S A F E T Y T R I M B L E E D CD 6 PANEL 1 TRAY DIGIPAK 138.5MM (5.45”) 139.5MM (5.49”) P ANEL 6 BACK COVER F O L D 431MM (16.97”) SPINE 6MM (.24”) F O L D 125.5MM (4.94”) 251MM (9.88”) 125.5MM (4.94”) FOLD 137MM (5.39”) 136.5MM (5.37”) 9MM (.35”) F O L D F O L D 139.5MM (5.49”) SPINE 7.5MM (.3”) PANEL 5 INSIDE 138MM (5.43”) 10.5MM (.41”) PANEL 2 INSIDE PANEL 4 TRAY DATE: L/S: TECH: SEL#: CYAN MAGENTA LABEL: ARTIST: TITLE: SEPARATOR: FILE NAME: JOB #: TEMPLATE: UMG_CD_ 6P_DIG_1TRAY_JUL0 0.indt UMGI_CD _6P_DIG_1TRAY_JUL 00.indt YELLOW BLACK PMS PMS TOTAL NUMBER OF COLORS ARABIAN HORSE 1.SELFOSS 2.BE WIT H ME 3.DEEP INSIDE 4.OVER 5.WITHIN Y OU 6.ARABIAN HORSE 7 .MAGNIFIED LOVE 8 .CHANGES COME 9.WHEN YOUR LOVE RS GONE 10.BENCHE D KOMPAKT SCHALLPL ATTEN WERDERSTRA SSE 15-19 D-50672 K OLN, FON+49/221-94 995-0 FAX-150 WWW. KOMPAKT.FM MADE I N EUROPE GEMA ARABIAN HORSE A R A B IA N H O R S E G U S KOMPAKT SELFOSS / Accordions b y Davið Þór Jónsson / Ba njo by Högni Egilsson / S tring arrangements by S amúel Jón Samúelsson / Stri ng performance by Ro land String Quartet / S trings recorded by Add i 800 / BE WITH ME NOW / Vo cals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður Hákonardóttir ak a Earth / String arrange ments by Samúel Jón Samúels son / String performanc e by Roland String Quar tet / Strings recorded b y Addi 800 / DEEP INSIDE / Vocals by Daníel Ágús t & Högni Egilsson / Ac cordion by Davíð Þór J ónsson / OVER / Vocals by Da níel Ágúst & Urður Hák onardóttir aka Earth / ARABIAN HORSE / Vo cals by Daníel Ágúst & Urður H ákonardóttir aka Earth / Backing vocals by S tephan Stephensen and Birgir Þórarinsson. WITHIN YOU / Vocals by Daníe l Ágúst & Högni Egilss on / Accordion by Dav íð Þór Jónsson / String arran gements by Samúel Jó n Samúelsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recor ded by Addi 800 / MAG NIFIED LOVE / Vocals by Daníel Ágúst / CHA NGES COME / Vocals by Birg ir Þórarinsson / WHEN YOU’RE LOVERS GON E / Vocals by Högni Eg ilsson / Lyrics by Atli Bollaso n / Accordion by Davíð Þór Jónsson / Snare b y Sigtryggur Baldursso n / Saw by Eric Alm / Saw reco rded by Petter Winnber g / String arrangement s by Samúel Jón Samú elsson / String performance by Roland String Quartet / Strings recorded by Ad di 800 / Ókey bæ perfo rmed by Jón Leifs / BENCHED / Slide guitar by Davíð Þ ór Jónsson / Saw by Eri c Alm / Saw recorded by Petter Winnberg / All tracks produced, performed a nd mixed by GusGus / All tracks written by GusGus except / Within You / G usGus, Högni Egilsson and Atli Bollason / Dee p Inside / Gusgus and Högni Egilsson / When You’re Lover Is Gone / GusGus , Högni Egilsson and Atl i Bollason / Over / Gus Gus and Hákonardóttir aka Eart h / Be With Me Now / G usgus and Urður Háko nardóttir aka Earth / G usGus are / Birgir Þórarinsso n, Daníel Ágúst Haralds son and Stephan Steph ensen aka President Bo ngo / Artwork by Paul Mcmen amin / Photography by Wojtek Kwiatkowski / B and Photography by Ar i Magg / Assistant Auður sæta / Recorded at Veiran Stu dios & Bongomachine / Thanks / Davíð Þór Jón sson & Colgate, Högni Egilsson , Urður Hákonardóttir, L inda Loeskow, Jenný & Jón, Paul Mcmenamin, Sigrún Daníelsdóttir, Silja Sóle y, Rökkvi & Pétur, Cath y Lapka, Daníela, Una & Lilja, Addi 800, Sam úel Jón Samúelsson, Guðmundu r Óskar Guðmundsson, R oland String Quartet, He lgi Svavar Helgason, Sig tryggur Baldursson, Jimi Tenor & Nicole Willis, Eric Alm , Petter Winnberg, Niss e, Gabríel Patay, Fjölnir Tattú, Sunneva & The Sirkus Crew Faroe Islands, Sig ga & Jóel Briem, Gabrí ela Friðriksdóttir, Lárus Páll & Jóní Jóns, Hjalti Egilss on, Margeir & Jón Atli, Michael Mayer & Komp akt, Sebastian Bohnenb erger & Greatstuff, Heimir Sver risson, Aron Arnarsson , Jón Skuggi, Agnar He rmannsson, Erla Indrið adóttir & Einar Benjamínsson, Páll Borg and special summerhouse greeting s go to: Magnús Steph ensen & Bergljót Þorsteinsdótti r, Daníel Þórarinsson & Ingibjörg Nordahl. Con tact details: man@gusg us.com BE WITH ME / I’m lyin g in my bed / And it fe els / Just like a prison cell / I’m trying to get sleep now / With my head / Stuck in a vacuum shell / An d I want you to be her e / From the bottom / Of a wishing well / Be with me now / I’m turning in my bed / And my mind twists / Like a whirlwind hell / I’m rolling in my bed / Wrapped u p / In your binding spe ll / Be with me now / W ITHIN YOU / You train down to the gutter / So bad it bites reality / Echoing s un ds of your lover / You tied down your breath for a while / May take some time so metime / Find a dime a nd I shiver / Who cares where you carry your name / Tied down by your lover / B reak my heart and lea ve you may / That’s yo u, that’s you, that’s yo u / Try on / You cannot make time go backwards / Or ma ke it run fast forward / It will go on without y ou / Clear is my mind echoing throu ghout within you / Lay my heart down easy in your hands / Found ou r hearts are made to shiver / So ri ght would you play me again / Shared by one another / The tears in our veins / Make your pause. I’ll d eliver / My gold, I’ve so ld my gold / Making my heart work harder / So it can beat much faster / It will go on within me / After m y time of passing throu gh / Within you / You c annot make time go backwards / O r make it run fast forw ard / It will go on with out you / Clear is my m ind echoing throughout within you / MAGNIFIED LOVE / I’m done for I give up / Surrender my physica l mood / You make me walk blindly / Right out of my comfo rthood / You stroke me you strike me / As som eone who is in control / You eat m e you feed me / You no urish my hungry soul / Hungry soul / My mag nified love / Magnified / You push m e you shove me / You m ove me every night / Y ou make me go lightly / You move every cell in my body / In my body / You own me! Physically! / Posse ssing me spiritually / M y magnified love / Magnified love / DEEP INSIDE / When you opened my heart I was t hrown / Deep i nto the Milky Way / The adrenaline r ush that I got from the crush / Blew me away / Opened doors. Open ed wide. Deep inside / You rose in a c ertain way / I could fee l how you grew and I kn w / Y u would steal my heart away / De p inside, deep ins ide / Why did you crash steal my heart and go / Deep inside, deep an d tight / My teeth are sore on your front door / I’m dry, I’m d y, I’m dry, I’m dry / D eep inside the Milky Wa y / Now I’m pushed and / I’m pulled I feel flushed / I’m com pletely out of place / A nd the blood that was b oiling with lust / Now is frozen in my veins / I am stuck in a rut with the thoug ht when my life / Was swept away / How cathartic when m y heart exploded / Insi de the Milky Way / Dee p inside, deep inside / Why did you crash steal my heart a nd go / Deep inside, de ep and tight / My teet h are sore on your fron t door / I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry, I’m dry / Deep inside the M ilky Way / OVER / We’v e made our mistakes o ver / We’ve gone up and down / Ov er and over / Once aga in I have crossed / Dou ble-crossed over / I be trayed our trust / Knocked it all o ver / Over. Over / And I wonder why / Why we didn’t try, this time / D idn’t even try / Try to make things ri ght, over / As you won der why / Why we didn ’t try / We didn’t try th is time / We didn’t even try / Try to make things right this time / With the wind th is will blow / It will blow over / Is the time, time to mend / O ver? / Maybe we can d elve / Deep into ourse lves, over / Find the sm allest flame / Re-install the game / Over / ARABIAN HOR SE / Disappear into th e dust / Lost on your h orse / Blown away by your gust / Lo st on your horse / Dese rt land under the sun / Lost on your horse / L ike a grain of sand / Lost in your stor m / On the crossroads take a left / Lost on you r horse / Too bright to e ven see the sun / More and more s and in my eyes / Riding on. Getting lost / Lost on your horse / Disapp ear into the dust / Lost on your hor se / Racing on the dese rt dunes / I chase you l ike a moon / But on the crossroads take a left / Lost on yo ur horse / CHANGES C OME / Maybe I just wa nt to be alon / Tired o f searching for the way back h me / Stuck in the state of no state at the deep e nd of sorrow / Change s come, but I can’t follow / Stay, Sta y, Stay, Stay away /Tou ched by evil, nothing m ore to say / It’s so easy to turn you on. / But just as quick ly, then you’re gone / Stuck in this state of n o fate with sight fixed on tomorrow / Changes come, and y ou do follow / Stay, Sta y, Stay, Stay away / To uched by evil, nothing more to say TRACK OF THE ISSUE Download at grapevine.is Haukur’s 41st Editorial Illustration: Sveinbjörn Pálsson www.sveinbjorn.com WTF! FISHING QUOTA SYSTEM? to harvest and process all our fish in a single monstrous and automated freezer trawler, but it really isn’t! By that same logic, it would be extremely efficient if all Iceland- ers lived in a single apartment complex in Breiðholt (how much would we save on heating and transportation costs? A lot!). So what’s being changed now? I’m not sure. Maybe we’ll have an article on it in our next issue. Maybe not. URGENT CORRECTION!!! We’ve made a huge mistake. In last issue’s super awesome GUIDE TO EVERY BAR IN REYKJAVÍK, we erroneously reported the prices of ‘Beatles-bar’ Obladi Oblada. We also neglected to mention the fact that they indeed have a pretty awesome ‘happy hour’ every day of the week, and that it starts earlier than any other ‘happy hour’ we know of. The correct prices for Obladi Oblada are as follows: BEER: 650 ISK // SHOTS: 650 // SINGLE + MIXER: 900 HAPPY HOUR: 500 ISK beers, 600 ISK shots, 800 ISK single + mixer. They also asked us to tell you that they regularly host some legends of Icelandic music (last week they had Engilbert Jensen!) playing Beatles-tunes in their own style. Every Thursday has the re- portedly excellent house band performing along with special guest stars. “It is a must-visit for every fan of the Beatles or good music”, they say. Sorry for our errors, Obladi Oblada. We have spanked the reporter in question.

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