Reykjavík Grapevine - 12.08.2011, Qupperneq 39

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Travel | Þórsmörk
Our day tour to Þórsmörk started bright and early in
Reykjavík. The pickup time was 8 AM, but we arrived
at the BSI bus terminal several minutes early, not
quite sure where we would find our bus. Finally, it ap-
peared with the sign we were waiting for: Þórsmörk,
Natural Reserve.
As soon as we got onto the bus, my eyelids grew
heavy and the landscapes around us became, little
by little, a part of my dreams. About an hour and
a half later we arrived to Hvolsvöllur, a small town
where we changed buses and had the chance for a
quick coffee break before continuing our route. For
those who didn’t pack lunch, it was a good opportu-
nity to purchase food and provisions as well.
As we continued further east on the Ring Road,
we saw the silhouette of Vestmannaeyjar to our right,
and an omnipresent voice recording told us about
the small cluster of islands and the eruption of Eldfell
('fire mountain') in 1973, which forced residents to
leave the main island, Heimaey. The pre-recorded
voice also spoke of Surtsey, which emerged from the
seabed in 1963 due to a violent underwater volcanic
eruption, which is also how Iceland emerged 20 mil-
lion years ago.
THE REAL ADVENTURE BEGINS
Crossing over the vast lands where some of the Ice-
landic sagas took place, we came to the waterfall
Seljalandsfoss where we could feel the roar of water
falling from 60 metres high. At this point, a mighty
8x8 vehicle was waiting for us. After we got into our
new vehicle, a new voice on a CD told us about the
Eyjafjallajökull eruption in 2010. I was taken with fear
and fascination, knowing that we would be close to
the volcano that wreaked havoc last year. After that
story, the voice shut up and music started to sound
from the speakers. The musical medley lasted the
daylong and spanned the gamut from ‘Jailhouse
Rock’ to ‘Don't Go Breaking My Heart.’ They would
be the songs that would accompany us on our jour-
ney over and over.
As we got closer, the road turned to gravel and
our eyes filled with dust (despite being inside the
vehicle) until we finally arrived the Þórsmörk nature
reserve and, damn, it is amazing! It was postcard pic-
ture perfect with the glacial water streaming down
from the mountains, and creating waterfalls.
We stopped at Gígjökull, an outlet glacier from
Eyjafjallajökull. There used to be a spectacular gla-
cial lagoon there, but it was swept away by the 2010
eruption. Standing in front of such a formidable work
of nature, I felt as small as an ant. You really feel as
though you have been transported into a different
world.
From there, we went to Húsadalur, in the western
part of Þórsmörk valley. We crossed a few rivers to
reach a camping area, where we stopped for lunch.
I could have been there for hours, surrounded by
nature and breathing the fresh air coming into my
lungs. But time is short and we had to get back in the
8x8 vehicle to continue on the route.
TRAVELLING THROUGH NOWHERE
We drove on through Goðaland, crossing numer-
ous glacial rivers. Sometimes it even seemed that
we were sailing through their waters. Suddenly, we
stopped in nowhere land. The driver invited us to get
out and spend as long as we wanted there. The feel-
ing of peace was stunning. Only the sound of water
running and camera shutters could be heard.
After our stop, we hopped back in the car and
drove for another 45 minutes. As we trudged on at
10 km/hour, the landscapes looked like photographs
in motion. Finally, we reached Stakkholtsgjá canyon,
where we did a short one-hour hike. There, we found
melting water from Eyjafjallajökull glacier falling
down in a cave. That was the end of our road. After
spending some time between the canyon walls, we
returned to our 8x8 vehicle and one bumpy ride out
of Þórsmörk later, we returned to our everyday lives.
Words
Félix Jiménez
Photography
Natsha Nandabhiwat
“ I could be there for hours, surrounded by nature and
breathing the fresh air coming
into my lungs.
39
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 12 — 2011
In Nowhere Land
The ‘Þórsmörk Nature Reserve’ tour by Reykjavík Excursions can be booked at www.re.is or
by calling +354 580 5400. The tour costs 19800 ISK and is available every day. The total time
spent is 10 hours. Pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes prior to departure.