Reykjavík Grapevine - 19.05.2017, Síða 54

How to get there:
Fly or take Route One to
Egilsstaðir, then take Route 93
Distance from
Reykjavík
671km
54 The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 08 — 2017
The Library of Water
Seyðisfjörður is a very chill place
Town Guide
A beginners guide to the creative eastern
hub of Seyðisfjörður
Words: John Rogers Photos: Art Bicnick & John Rogers

Tucked away in the Eastfjords,
over a winding mountain pass,
lies the small but perfectly formed
port town of Seyðisfjörður. Home
to 665 people, it feels like a minia-
ture world of its own. Its wooden
houses and picturesque blue church
are cradled by mountains on three
sides, with the long fjord meander-
ing out to sea on the other. The Nor-
ræna ferry arrives from Denmark
via the Faroe Islands once a week,
and Seyðisfjörður has a lively local
culture that includes various res-
taurants, galleries, arts residencies,
and festivals.
Stay: Hafaldan
Once the town hospital, today Ha-
faldan is a spacious hostel with
a large shared kitchen, a choice of
shared or private rooms, and spec-
tacular mountain views from every
window. If it’s booked out, or you’re
looking for something more pri-
vate, you could also try one of the
town’s two hotels or many Airbnbs.
Shop: esualc
Philippe Claus is a clothing de-
signer based in Seyðisfjörður who
hand-knits hoods, scarves, shawls,
headbands and cowls from Icelan-
dic wool. His studio and shop is in
the old general store, so you can pop
in and say hi, and come away with a
piece of original design that’s both
practical and beautiful.
Gallery: Skaftfell
Skaftfell is a smart contemporary
art gallery with a year-round exhi-
bition programme. In the top floor,
there’s an apartment for artists
in residence, and in the basement
there’s a cosy bar and pizzeria, so
after you’ve taken in their latest art
show, you can relax with a beer and
a pizza topped with reindeer or lo-
cally fished seafood.
Festival: LungA
The annual LungA festival is a par-
ticipatory art festival, in which art-
ist and ticket holders can sign up
for various workshops, creating a
lively, creative atmosphere that fills
the town with spontaneous exhibi-
tions, performances, and, of course,
blow-out parties, with performanc-
es from the best up-and-coming
bands in Iceland. The 2017 edition
takes place 16-27 July.
Drink: Cafe Lára
The town’s bar is the eccentric
Café Lara, which stocks a specially
brewed bottled beer called El Grillo,
named after a military vessel that
lies on the bottom of the fjord.
There are food options, and the bar
also hosts occasional events such
as music performances and a small
but fun beer festival.
Eat: Norð Austur
For a town of Seyðisfjörður’s size,
two good restaurants seems like a
lot. Some think Norð Austur offers
the best sushi in Iceland—try the
immaculately presented sashimi
platter to see why. It’s a small place
that’s popular with both locals and
tourists, so if it’s a weekend, call
ahead and make a reservation.
Hike: Waterfall Lane
Seyðisfjörður is also the name of
the beautiful fjord in which the
town sits. Past the town sign—
think a low-fi version of the Holly-
wood logo—there are fields, cliffs
and waterfalls to explore, as well as
disused ammo dumps and ruined
houses from previous centuries.
Waterfall Lane is a four-hour hike
up the Fjardara river, with many
waterfalls to see along the way. Be
prepared: it’s a route that requires
good boots and hiking poles.
SHARE & VIEW GALLERY:
gpv.is/travel
Waterfall Lane hiking route
Norð Austur sushi restaurant
The best of Icelandic produce
with a nod to Japan and South
America. Modern Icelandic
flavours, share plates and award
winning cocktails.
Sushi Social
Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík
Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is
Our kitchen is open
17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.
17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.
SOCIALIZE
WITH THE
LOCALS
ICELANDIC
SEAFOOD
makes world’s best sushi