Reykjavík Grapevine


Reykjavík Grapevine - 16.06.2017, Síða 53

Reykjavík Grapevine - 16.06.2017, Síða 53
Find the best food in Iceland! Download our free dining app, CRAVING on the Apple and Android stores Matartíminn Magical Mystery Meal Dill and Solfin Danielsen take us on a tour of the Arctic island palate Words: Ragnar Egillson Photo: Art Bicnick Matartíminn is a series of pop-up events orchestrated by Dill, Iceland’s first Michelin star restaurant, and Kex Hostel. Each event takes place in a new and non-traditional loca- tion—at an upcoming event, food will be cooked over an open fire on a river island. The most recent night was relocated back to Dill, for un- known reasons—not that I’m com- plaining about a seat at a restaurant with a two-month waiting list. Matartíminn is aimed square- ly at foodies who don’t sweat splash- ing £200-300 on a meal with wine p a i r i n g s — a l - though you’d be ha rd-pressed to find a seven-course meal with booze for less in Reyk- javík these days. The fifth install- ment was staged by Ragnar Eiríks- son of Dill in collaboration with Faroese wine wunderkind Solfinn Danielsen, of Copenhagen winery Rødder & Vin. Solfinn was there to guide guests through a range of natural wines to complement the ingredients, dragged sparkling from the darkness of the North Atlantic, or dug muddied from the waves of tussock hummocks. Cloudy and lactic The journey began with a delicate variation on a traditional herb- crusted Arctic char. The fish was lightly cured with a dusting of herbs, as opposed to the usual coarse layer of dill, further accentuated by a light cucumber sauce and a glass of sharp SomnamBulles from micro-winery Gar ‘o’ vin. This tran- sitioned smooth ly to the smoked had- dock with skyr po- tato mash, comple- mented marvellously by a cloudy and lactic Escargot chardonnay. The lightly salted cod chins (“gellur”) came apart in strands thick as piano strings, served with a “spaghetti” of raw rutabaga and “sea-truffles”—a seaweed resem- bling carrageen moss. The Anda- lusian bubbly white with discrete fruit and distinct minerality, veer- ing into a dry apple cider, was the perfect bridge between the cod and earthy root vegetable. The wolf- fish had been dried and shredded until the texture resembled rou- song pork floss, then draped like cotton clouds over malted barley. This was paired with a lemon- colored Gérard Schueller Cuvee Particuliere, an uncharacteris- tically sour Alsatian wine with notes of elderflower and honeydew. The last of the savoury dishes was a lamb with fermented fen- nel. The lamb wore its free range lifestyle on its woolen sleeve like that annoying friend on Instagram with his nonstop #fitspo-tagged mountain views. It sported an ex- pertly charred crust enveloping the pink interior, and came colour-co- ordinated with the cherry-tinged Thierry Hesnault Pinot d’Aunis. Grassy rhubarb The next wine was Solfinn’s fa- vorite—a slightly bitter and salty gamay from Francois Dhumes. This was paired with the most divisive course of the evening: a beet sorbet with a crisp of me- ringue dusted with anise-flavored powder and brown cheese pud- ding. Interestingly, the response was neatly divided along gender lines, with the women being less welcoming of the strange sorbet. Finally, we were greeted with a grassy rhubarb with whey ice cream and dry sponge cake. This was paired with a small bar- rel Xarab wine from Barranco Oscuro, sweetened naturally by running it through three sea- sonal cycles—acidic for a des- sert wine, with a rusty color and visible sediment, and an after- taste of prunes and ancho chiles. The emerging themes for the night were carnivore proteins be- ing given a less central role, and a keen appreciation of acids in preference to the usual fat and salt. All in all, Matartíminn of- fered a thoroughly contempo- rary approach to Nordic cuisine, and is a must-attend for all se- rious Reyk jav í k foodies w ith the time and funds to spare. R E S T A U R A N T w w w . b a n t h a i . i s L a u g a v e g u r 1 3 0 T E L : 6 9 2 - 0 5 6 4 ---------------------------- BanThai B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 6 2 0 0 9, 2 0 1 0, 2 0 1 1, 2 0 1 2, 2 0 1 3, 2 0 1 4 A N D 2 0 1 5 ---------------------------- FISH panS icelandic "plokkfiskur" Onion, garlic, potatoes, celery, lime, white wine, cream and butter 1,850 isk plaice Tomatoes, capers, parsley, lemon and butter 2,100 isk arcTic cHar Honey, almonds, cherry tomatoes, lemon and butter 2,100 isk salmon (lacTose–free) Parsnip, broccoli, cashews, coconut oil, chili and lemon 2,100 isk our fisH pans are always served wiTH buTTer–fried icelandic poTaToes & fresH salad deSSertS carroT cake Cognac cream cheese frosting and roasted coconut flakes 1,550 isk créme caramel Classic egg custard with baked white chocolate and strawberries 1,550 isk any pans for luncH? lækjargaTa 6b, 101 rvk · 546 0095 · messinn@messinn.com “The most divi- sive course was a beet sorbet dusted with anise-flavored powder and brown cheese pudding” Food Very Instagrammable food

x

Reykjavík Grapevine

Beinleiðis leinki

Hvis du vil linke til denne avis/magasin, skal du bruge disse links:

Link til denne avis/magasin: Reykjavík Grapevine
https://timarit.is/publication/943

Link til dette eksemplar:

Link til denne side:

Link til denne artikel:

Venligst ikke link direkte til billeder eller PDfs på Timarit.is, da sådanne webadresser kan ændres uden advarsel. Brug venligst de angivne webadresser for at linke til sitet.