Reykjavík Grapevine


Reykjavík Grapevine - 20.04.2018, Blaðsíða 44

Reykjavík Grapevine - 20.04.2018, Blaðsíða 44
Snæfellsnes is oft called the “Iceland in miniature,” a name that refers to the fact that a day trip there affords visitors most of the natural phenom- ena that Iceland is famous for. There are black sand beaches, geothermal hot pools, a glacier, a volcano be- neath said glacier, as well as sprawl- ing valleys, vast grasslands, pictur- esque fishing villages, and rugged lava fields. It’s pretty much a stopover travellers dream but doesn’t have the same overwhelming concentration of tourists like the Golden Circle. In Snæfellsnes, yours will often be the only car on a mountain road, and you might get some privacy while you dip your toes into the Atlantic at one of the peninsula’s many beaches. It har- kens back to a simpler time, before cheap airfares. Our trip there began with another facet of the mini-Iceland experience. The weather was balmy when we set out from Reykjavík, but as we reached the halfway point of Borgarnes, the heavens opened, and we were quick- ly enveloped by a snowstorm. It was exciting, and vaguely terrifying, but we cautiously continued on our way, marvelling at how the whole environ- ment can change from moment to moment. The black lava fields turned into white badlands until we abruptly left the snowy area, and they resur- faced through a murky fog. A feast for Frigg Nevertheless, we arrived at the sea- side town of Stykkishólmur right on time, scrambling on board the infa- mous “Viking Sushi” pleasure boat. After casting off from Stykkishól- mur’s secluded harbour, the ship meandered around the Breiðafjörður bay, stopping every so often to near a notable rock face or a bird cliff. Even for those unfamiliar with the pecu- liarities of Iceland’s geology or fauna, it’s spectacular. A narrator provided extra information over the on-deck PA; I casually tuned in and out as we wove between the islands, sometimes wanting to experience the grandeur of the various sites without interrup- tion. Although the weather wasn’t ideal, that didn’t diminish the beauty of the islands, instead giving them a pri- mordial wild feel. Surrounded by mist and pelting rain, us travellers slipped and slid around the hull of the boat often grabbing each other for stabil- ity. There were a lot of photographers on the boat, so it felt like life-or-death. Don’t drop that Canon! Feeding time After close to 45 minutes, the boat halted and we crowded around a mas- sive slop trough in the rear, watching as a net full of goodies was delicately raised from the choppy waters. It was finally the “Viking Sushi” portion. One worker pulled the net open and the trough was immediately covered by stacks of seafloor dwellers—clams, mussels, sea urchins, and even some starfish. The worker then started opening clams, scallops and mussels, hand- ing them out to the hungry patrons. Polite queues forgotten, we scrambled to get our own nibble, and weren’t disappointed—the mussels were fla- vourful, the fresh clams indescribably juicy, far beyond what you’d get at any restaurant. The real standout was the sea urchin. While restaurant sea ur- chin often has a weird consistency, with a popping sensation when bitten into, this was melt-in-the-mouth de- lectable. Coastal views & silent fjords While the food was plentiful, it was nowhere near enough for a meal, so after disembarking, we made a pit stop at the Narfeyrarstofa eatery. I opted for the lamb, while my compan- ion ordered the fish of the day, fresh from the fjord. Both were proved why Narfeyrarstofa has a reputation as one of the best restaurants in the west. To reach Hótel Búðir, we decided to round the Snæfellsnes peninsula for some sightseeing. The weather was still patchy and changeable, but that’s a given on Iceland road trips. It’s best to expect the worst, and treat each moment of sunshine as a blessing. Ap- proach an Icelandic road trip this way, and you’ll never be disappointed. There’s a lot to see in this area. Bjarnarhöfn has a gorgeous tract of lava fields, and beyond that are wide, wild fjords full of seabirds. The peak of Kirkjufell mountain comes into view outlined by awe-inspiring coastal views, and as you get to the peninsula tip, there’s the white sands of Skarðsvík and black sand of Djú- palónssandur battling it out for most beautiful. Towering over all of this is the sparkling Snæfellsjökull glacier— a wonder of Iceland, if there ever was one. A surprise ending We arrived at Búðir just in time for dinner. Opting for the tasting menu, we were treated to a perfectly light fish soup, succulently tender lamb fil- let, and delicate sorbet dessert. It was still light outside as we finished, so we strolled outside to experience the famous vista around Búðir. The ho- tel is surrounded by a landscape that feels like an oil painting. There are lava fields, mountains, an old church and the coastline, all melding into a 360° panorama that is, without hyper- bole, truly unforgettable. After drifting off to sleep, I was un- expectedly awoken by the room’s tele- phone. Answering groggily, I heard an excited voice telling me to come outside. The gleeful cries of fellow guests flew in through my window as I opened it up to look skywards. Sitting in the window-frame, I dan- gled my feet outside and gazed up at green aurora sweeping across the sky. They danced high up in the atmo- sphere, and I froze, transfixed. Well, I thought, now I really have gotten my mini-Iceland experience. “The sparkling Snæfellsjökull glacier is a wonder of Iceland, if there ever was one.” Travel Distance from Reykjavík: 150 km Car provided by: gocarrental.is Accomodation provided by: hotelbudir.is How to get there: Take Route One north then Routes 54, 55, and rejoin Route 54 44The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 06 — 2018 The majestic Snæfellsnes Peninsula is known as "Iceland in miniature." From The Sea To The Sky Snæfellsnes gifted us twenty-four hours of Icelandic wonders Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick gpv.is/travel Follow all our travelsThe Northern Lights appear over Hótel Buðir

x

Reykjavík Grapevine

Beinir tenglar

Ef þú vilt tengja á þennan titil, vinsamlegast notaðu þessa tengla:

Tengja á þennan titil: Reykjavík Grapevine
https://timarit.is/publication/943

Tengja á þetta tölublað:

Tengja á þessa síðu:

Tengja á þessa grein:

Vinsamlegast ekki tengja beint á myndir eða PDF skjöl á Tímarit.is þar sem slíkar slóðir geta breyst án fyrirvara. Notið slóðirnar hér fyrir ofan til að tengja á vefinn.