Reykjavík Grapevine - 20.04.2018, Page 44

Snæfellsnes is oft called the “Iceland
in miniature,” a name that refers to
the fact that a day trip there affords
visitors most of the natural phenom-
ena that Iceland is famous for. There
are black sand beaches, geothermal
hot pools, a glacier, a volcano be-
neath said glacier, as well as sprawl-
ing valleys, vast grasslands, pictur-
esque fishing villages, and rugged
lava fields. It’s pretty much a stopover
travellers dream but doesn’t have the
same overwhelming concentration
of tourists like the Golden Circle. In
Snæfellsnes, yours will often be the
only car on a mountain road, and you
might get some privacy while you dip
your toes into the Atlantic at one of
the peninsula’s many beaches. It har-
kens back to a simpler time, before
cheap airfares.
Our trip there began with another
facet of the mini-Iceland experience.
The weather was balmy when we set
out from Reykjavík, but as we reached
the halfway point of Borgarnes, the
heavens opened, and we were quick-
ly enveloped by a snowstorm. It was
exciting, and vaguely terrifying, but
we cautiously continued on our way,
marvelling at how the whole environ-
ment can change from moment to
moment. The black lava fields turned
into white badlands until we abruptly
left the snowy area, and they resur-
faced through a murky fog.
A feast for Frigg
Nevertheless, we arrived at the sea-
side town of Stykkishólmur right on
time, scrambling on board the infa-
mous “Viking Sushi” pleasure boat.
After casting off from Stykkishól-
mur’s secluded harbour, the ship
meandered around the Breiðafjörður
bay, stopping every so often to near a
notable rock face or a bird cliff. Even
for those unfamiliar with the pecu-
liarities of Iceland’s geology or fauna,
it’s spectacular. A narrator provided
extra information over the on-deck
PA; I casually tuned in and out as we
wove between the islands, sometimes
wanting to experience the grandeur
of the various sites without interrup-
tion.
Although the weather wasn’t ideal,
that didn’t diminish the beauty of the
islands, instead giving them a pri-
mordial wild feel. Surrounded by mist
and pelting rain, us travellers slipped
and slid around the hull of the boat
often grabbing each other for stabil-
ity. There were a lot of photographers
on the boat, so it felt like life-or-death.
Don’t drop that Canon!
Feeding time
After close to 45 minutes, the boat
halted and we crowded around a mas-
sive slop trough in the rear, watching
as a net full of goodies was delicately
raised from the choppy waters. It was
finally the “Viking Sushi” portion.
One worker pulled the net open and
the trough was immediately covered
by stacks of seafloor dwellers—clams,
mussels, sea urchins, and even some
starfish.
The worker then started opening
clams, scallops and mussels, hand-
ing them out to the hungry patrons.
Polite queues forgotten, we scrambled
to get our own nibble, and weren’t
disappointed—the mussels were fla-
vourful, the fresh clams indescribably
juicy, far beyond what you’d get at any
restaurant. The real standout was the
sea urchin. While restaurant sea ur-
chin often has a weird consistency,
with a popping sensation when bitten
into, this was melt-in-the-mouth de-
lectable.
Coastal views & silent
fjords
While the food was plentiful, it was
nowhere near enough for a meal, so
after disembarking, we made a pit
stop at the Narfeyrarstofa eatery. I
opted for the lamb, while my compan-
ion ordered the fish of the day, fresh
from the fjord. Both were proved why
Narfeyrarstofa has a reputation as one
of the best restaurants in the west.
To reach Hótel Búðir, we decided to
round the Snæfellsnes peninsula for
some sightseeing. The weather was
still patchy and changeable, but that’s
a given on Iceland road trips. It’s best
to expect the worst, and treat each
moment of sunshine as a blessing. Ap-
proach an Icelandic road trip this way,
and you’ll never be disappointed.
There’s a lot to see in this area.
Bjarnarhöfn has a gorgeous tract
of lava fields, and beyond that are
wide, wild fjords full of seabirds. The
peak of Kirkjufell mountain comes
into view outlined by awe-inspiring
coastal views, and as you get to the
peninsula tip, there’s the white sands
of Skarðsvík and black sand of Djú-
palónssandur battling it out for most
beautiful. Towering over all of this is
the sparkling Snæfellsjökull glacier—
a wonder of Iceland, if there ever was
one.
A surprise ending
We arrived at Búðir just in time for
dinner. Opting for the tasting menu,
we were treated to a perfectly light
fish soup, succulently tender lamb fil-
let, and delicate sorbet dessert. It was
still light outside as we finished, so
we strolled outside to experience the
famous vista around Búðir. The ho-
tel is surrounded by a landscape that
feels like an oil painting. There are
lava fields, mountains, an old church
and the coastline, all melding into a
360° panorama that is, without hyper-
bole, truly unforgettable.
After drifting off to sleep, I was un-
expectedly awoken by the room’s tele-
phone. Answering groggily, I heard
an excited voice telling me to come
outside. The gleeful cries of fellow
guests flew in through my window
as I opened it up to look skywards.
Sitting in the window-frame, I dan-
gled my feet outside and gazed up at
green aurora sweeping across the sky.
They danced high up in the atmo-
sphere, and I froze, transfixed. Well,
I thought, now I really have gotten my
mini-Iceland experience.
“The sparkling
Snæfellsjökull glacier
is a wonder of Iceland,
if there ever was one.”
Travel
Distance
from Reykjavík:
150 km

Car provided by:
gocarrental.is
Accomodation
provided by:
hotelbudir.is
How to get there:
Take Route One
north then Routes
54, 55, and rejoin
Route 54
44The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 06 — 2018
The majestic Snæfellsnes Peninsula is known as "Iceland in miniature."
From The Sea To
The Sky
Snæfellsnes gifted us twenty-four hours
of Icelandic wonders
Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick
gpv.is/travel
Follow all our travelsThe Northern Lights appear over Hótel Buðir