Reykjavík Grapevine - 04.05.2018, Qupperneq 25

BEST OF REYKJAVÍK
Best Wine
Selection
Port 9
Veghúsastígur 9
A tucked away basement bar
with a discrete and secretive
vibe, Port 9 has low lighting and
lots of dim corners suitable for
drinks, dates or general con-
spiring. It’s also the only self-
proclaimed out-and-out wine
bar in Reykjavík. “They have a
short list of basic, affordable
options that are available by
the glass,” said the panel. “But
if you ask, there’s a more ex-
tensive book-length wine list,
sold by the bottle. And then if
you ask again, out comes a gold-
leaf, handwritten book of their
fine wines. It doesn’t have pric-
es. So maybe don’t order from
the ‘special book’ if you’ve al-
ready had a few.”
Kröst
Hlemmur Mathöll
Every food stand in Hlemmur
has its own speciality, and
alongside their burgers and
bar snacks, Kröst prides itself
on the wine list. “They have a
list of at least six at any given
time, and the selection changes
constantly,” said the panel. “So
whenever you go back, there’ll
be something new to try.”
Geiri Smart
Hverfisgata 30
This fancy drinking hole is con-
nected to the Hilton Canopy ho-
tel complex and has an unusual
wine list focussing on cold-cli-
mate wines. There’s a long bar
with plenty of space, and it has
a swanky kind of feeling, so sip
your drink and people-watch
whilst role-playing some kind
of American Psycho lifestyle. If
you want. You weirdo.
DAY TRIP
12 Hours In
Reykjanes
A day of windswept wonders on the
Reykjavík-adjacent peninsula
Words: John Rogers Photos: Timothée Lambrecq
Reykjanes is the picturesque pen-
insula where most visitors enter
Iceland when they land at Keflavík.
However, the majority of people im-
mediately travel onwards to Reykja-
vík, and the south coast route, un-
aware that Reykjanes itself is full
of natural wonders and charming
coastal towns. Whether you want
a low-hassle road trip, or you’ve
ended up with some time to kill at
the airport, here’s an ideal day out
in Reykjanes.

Lake: Kleifarvatn
Behind the mountains that lie in-
land from the coastal road to Reyk-
javík is Kleifarvatn: a large lake
that often reflects the surround-
ing landscape like a mirror. There
are viewpoints along the roadside,
and sweeping black sand beaches
ideal for a stroll, as well as plenty of
discrete hiking trails into the hills.

Site: Seltún
Just past the lake is the Seltún geo-
thermal hotspot. Right next to the
parking lot are several large, fiercely
bubbling craters spewing out steam
and turning the earth into a co-
lourful, mineral-stained canvas.
A well-marked trail leads you over
a zigzagging wooden walkway to a
viewpoint over the whole spectacu-
lar area.

Town: Grindavík
The fishing village of Grindavík is
the ideal place to stop for lunch.
There are some options: Salthúsið is
famous for its bacalao, Papa’s serves
an amazing fish ‘n’ chips made with
the day’s catch straight from the
harbour, and the Fish House has
a nice pub atmosphere. There’s a
hardfiskur museum, a pool, and a
stone “Viking temple” in the town
centre. If you’ve time, drive out to
the Hópsnesviti lighthouse to see
a trail lined by rusted shipwrecks.

Site: Reykjanesviti &
Gunnuhver
The short version of this trip in-
volves cutting back inland past The
Blue Lagoon—or, you can take a lon-
ger coastal detour around the edge
of the peninsula. It’s worth it: the
Reykjanesviti lighthouse sits on a
picturesque piece of coastline near
the impressive Gunnuhver geother-
mal area. Also nearby is a footbridge
over the Eurasian tectonic divide.
Museums: Rokksafn &
Viking World
After all that energy-sapping out-
doorsiness, the town of Kelfavík has
a few museum options. Rokksafn—
the Museum of Rock ‘n’ Roll—is a
tribute to the town’s musical past,
when locals formed bands based on
the local (now decommissioned)
U.S. military base radio station.
You can also visit Viking World in
the adjoining village of Njarðsvík,
which houses a full-sized Viking
ship, and some displays of artefacts
and Viking history.

Swim: The Blue Lagoon
This world-famous geothermal spa
has recently undergone redevelop-
ment after a huge swell in popular-
ity. The milky-white outdoor pool
has been expanded, meaning bath-
ers are more spread out in the space,
and there’s a mud bar to pick up fa-
cial treatments as you bob around.
It’s intensely relaxing: so much so
that you might need a nap after-
wards.

Stay: Lighthouse Inn,
Garður
A particularly picturesque place
to spend the night is Garður. This
tiny village sits right on the tip
of the peninsula, and has not one
but two lighthouses, just a stone’s
throw from each other; the smaller
houses a café during the summer
months. There’s a camping ground,
or you can get a room in the airy
and comfortable Lighthouse Inn—a
newly built hostel with a view over
the coast.
26The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 07 — 2018Best of Reykjavík
The power station that belches forth the Blue Lagoon
ramen
momo
“ The
Icelandic
ramen ”
Tryggvagata 16
Open 11:30-22:00
saegreif inn. is
Geirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel. 553 1500 • seabaron8@gmail.com
An absolute
must-try!
Saegreifinn restaurant (Sea Baron) is like none other
in Iceland; a world famous lobster soup and a diverse
fish selection.