Reykjavík Grapevine


Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.09.2018, Qupperneq 19

Reykjavík Grapevine - 01.09.2018, Qupperneq 19
19 Th e R ey kj av ík G ra pe vi ne Be st o f R ey kj av ík 20 18 Best Newcomer Nostra Laugavegur 59 “Nostra” translates to ‘meticulous detail’ in Icelandic. This philosophy is distilled into every dish at this new tasting-menu oriented fine dining place, from the lightly cured trout in green strawberry juice to the langoustine cooked to a velvety singular bite with nothing more than lardo and lavender. Elegant, con- fident and refined, they let one or two in- gredients shine in each dish. Nostra also houses Artson, an artisanal cocktail bar mixing up delicious concoctions—we’re particularly partial to the Cherry Manhat- tan. Nostra is a breath of fresh air. Runners Up ÓX Laugavegur 28 ÓX is tucked away at the back of Sumac; an intimate izakaya-style kitchen, that seats just 11. Guests are treated to a 2.5 hour experience, the two chefs pairing unexpected drinks with seasonal favourites. Dining as if at a guess-who’s- coming-to-dinner space, one leaves yearning for a revisit. Marshall House Bar + Restaurant Grandagarður 20 A bright, airy space located under three floors of excellent cutting-edge con- temporary art galleries, the Marshall House Bar + Restaurant outdoes the traditional museum café tenfold. With excellent spins on Italian food and a great cocktail and wine list, make a point of heading out to Grandi to try it. Previous Winners 2017: Hlemmur Mathöll / Mat Bar Best Ice Cream Skúbb Laugarásvegur 1 Giving stiff competition to granddaddy Valdís, Skúbb plays into the national obsession for ice-cream all day, any day. Unlike the ultra-aerated, maxi- mised-for-profit tub versions available in supermarkets, these creamy churned scoops are dense and full of flavour. We especially like the dark chocolate, and the roasted white chocolate. Who even knew chocolate could be roasted? The seasonal mango ice-cream and other fruity sorbets are worth making the trip to Laugardalur, just for the excuse to have some ice cream afterwards. Runners Up Valdís Grandagarður 21 & Frakkastígur 10 The long lines here deter no one. The flavours are fun, with a nod to local tastes, like the lakkrís, aka liquorice, or the not-so-subtle jokes on current affairs—who can forget the memora- ble “icehot1” flavour? The takeaway ice-boxes are particularly great if you are hosting a party at home. Ísleifur Heppni Hlemmur Mathöll, Laugavegur 107 Newcomer: Liquid nitrogen ice-cream is still seeing a popularity surge. It's hard not to understand when the rath- er theatrical process yields creamy, in- tensely flavoured ice-cream with none of the icy grittiness of freezer burns. Freshly made warm waffles are a great vehicle for all that sugar and cream. Previous Winners 2013-14: Valdís 2012: YoYo 2010-11: Ísbúðin Ísland Best Tasting Menu Dill Hverfisgata 12 Dill has been doing tasting menus longer than most in Iceland. Built on the New Nordic philosophy, the menu tra- verses the islands culinary traditions, changing seasonally. Offered as five or seven-course menus, every meal is introduced with a series of ‘snacks’ or assorted amuse-bouche. The progres- sion is a tight narration of seasons, flavours, ingredients and traditions. A cunning ability to tap into the food memories of its diners is what makes a meal at Dill that much more memorable and inspiring. We recommend going all in for the wine pairings. Runners Up Apotek Austurstræti 16 Apotek’s tasting menu takes quality Ice- landic ingredients and serves them with refreshing and interesting twists from the kitchen. The service is excellent, the plating is aesthetically pleasing, and the whole experience is reliably high quality. A carefree meal at Apotek is the perfect medicine for a tiring week. Nostra Laugavegur 59 Newcomer: Bursting onto the fine-din- ing scene, upstart fine-dining eatery Nostra has tasting menu options of four, six and eight courses, consisting of deceptively simple plates with bold flavours in a daring display of the simple and complex. For an adventurous meal in a beautiful setting, Nostra is perfect. Previous Winners 2015-17: Tapas barinn 2013-14: KEX Best Italian Marshall House Bar + Restaurant Grandagarður 20 Chef Leifur Kolbeinsson practically introduced Icelanders to fresh pasta at his iconic restaurant La Primavera. Now running the kitchen at the Marshall House eatery, he stays true to the Italian spirit of simplicity. The menu focuses on fresh ingredients cooked beautifully; whole cooked plaice with burnt lemons, capers and anchovies jostle for attention alongside a n’djua spiced tagliatelle with plump langous- tine. Better yet? Until the beginning of October they will play host to pop-up restaurant SOE Kitchen. Runners Up Kolabrautin Harpa For a decadent dinner in possibly the prettiest building in town, Kolabrautin is perfect for pre-show nibbles or a dinner date. The views from Harpa are beyond spectacular, both inside the restaurant, and looking out towards the harbour. “The lobster pizza is the thing to order here,” sighed one panellist. Coocoo's Nest Grandagarður 23 This cosy and popular eatery on Grandi might not be a full-time Italian restur- ant—on different nights of the week you'll find them serving tacos, pizza, pasta, and other dishes of the day—but they capture the spirit of the Italian style better than most with their happy hour aperativos. Salute! Previous Winners None: new category!

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Reykjavík Grapevine

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