Reykjavík Grapevine - sep. 2019, Síða 20

The Reykjavík G
rapevine
Best of Iceland 2019
20 BEST OF ICELAND 2019
Reykjanes
The name means “Smokey Nose.” Promise!
Best Accommodation
Hotel Berg
Bakkavegur 17, Keflavík
This smart, modern hotel is located on
the hill behind Keflavík harbour. While the
town itself is not known for its beauty, this
spot is as tranquil as you could wish for,
with comfortable bedrooms, a relaxed sit-
ting area, and a rooftop pool from which
you can watch the sun sink into the sea.
Two highlights of Keflavík are practically
nextdoor: the Skessuhellir troll cave, and
the Duus Museum and café. The perfect
final stop before a morning flight. Map: C2
Fancy Option
The Retreat
The Blue Lagoon, Grindavík
The Blue Lagoon powered up recently,
coping with ever-increasing demand by
enlarging the bathing area and adapting
the facilities. One upgrade is this luxury ho-
tel, which also contains the Michelin-rated
Moss restaurant. Had a lottery win? Book
the suite, which comes with a private “lava
cove” lagoon. C3
Budget Option
Lighthouse Inn
Garður
As far as location goes, the Lighthouse Inn
is winning. Perched right on the toe of Rey-
kjanes, it’s a clean, warm and welcoming
hostel that’s a stone’s throw from Garður’s
twin lighthouses. One of them opens as
a café in the summer, and on a clear day,
you can see all the way to Snæfellsnes. B2
Best Meal
Salthúsið
Stamphólsvegur, Grindavík
Grindavík’s “House of baccalao,” Salthúsið,
is a spacious, wood-panelled restaurant
that takes humble salted cod and places
it front and centre on the menu. With a
down-to-earth atmosphere and a menu
that prides itself on Icelandic recipes and
ingredients—especially, of course, fresh
local seafood—you’ll come away with a
full belly and a smile on your face. It’s right
next door to the town pool, so you can take
a dip before or after. C3
Fancy Option
Moss
The Blue Lagoon
When the Michelin Guide revisited Ice-
land earlier this year, they confiscated the
island’s only Michelin Star, but they also
lavished several Bib and Plate awards on
new eateries. Moss was one of the recip-
ients, and their upscale New Nordic fare,
tasting menus and vegan options are a true
treat. C3
Runner Up
Papa’s Restaurant
Hafnargata 7a, Grindavík
Serving steaming hot, perfectly battered
deep-fried fish pulled straight from Grin-
davík harbour, it doesn’t get any fresher
than the outstanding fish ‘n’ chips at Papa’s
restaurant. The chips are chunky, the serv-
ings are generous, the service is friendly…
and it’s so delicious we wish we could eat
it every day. C3 B
Must-See Spot
Seltún
Krýsuvík, Route 42
Reykjanes is a lively, geothermally active
peninsula, and there’s nowhere better to
feel the heat and power of the living earth
than at Seltún in the Krýsuvík valley. The
iconic zig-zagging wooden walkway takes
you over steaming vents, bubbling fuma-
roles and gurgling clay pots; the colours
vary from earthy to vividly fluorescent.
There’s a hiking path to get a view over the
area, and more tempting trails lead you up
to other hidden hot spots. F2
Runners Up
Gunnuhver & Reykjanesviti
Reykjanesbær, Route 425
Less quaint but more powerful, the al-
legedly haunted Gunnuhver hot spot
sends a torrent of steam jetting into the
sky. Nearby, you’ll get a chance to strad-
dle the tectonic divide. The Reykjanesviti
lighthouse area has a Great Auk sculpture
looking out to sea, marking the spot where
the last one was reportedly hunted. H5
Hópsnes
Grindavík
On the southern shore of Reykjanes is the
thriving seaside town of Grindavík. The
Hópsnes peninsula that juts out from the
town is a truly curious spot: drive around
the winding dirt track to the lighthouse to
see lava plains studded with eerie rusting
shipwrecks. C3
Best Hike
Keilir
Reykjanesbær, Route 41
This cone-shaped mountain is much-ad-
mired, standing between Keflavík and Rey-
kjavík. Most people only gaze at its silhou-
ette from the Flybus, but there’s a hiking
trail to the summit. It begins just off Route
41, taking you through a lava field and up
a rough dirt road before the 378m ascent
begins. The path is steep and gravelly in
places, so wear sturdy shoes; if you time
the 2.5-hour hike well, you’ll get a sublime
sunset view. F2
Runner Up
Krýsuvík
Krýsuvík, Route 42
There are many hikes in the Krýsuvík geo-
thermal area. The main focus of the region
is, understandably, Seltún, but if you have
some spare time and a sense of adventure,
take a chance on one of the lesser-travelled
marked routes—you could be rewarded
with a remote geothermal area all to your-
self. D2
Easy Option
Þorbjörn
Grindavík
This 243m mountain is located between
the Blue Lagoon and Grindavík. An easy
ascent offers impressive views of the sur-
rounding lava fields and ocean. A narrow
cleft scars its peak; you’ll have to squeeze
between the tall walls to descend the other
side. C3
ON YOUR WAY TO VÍK?
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870 Vík í Myrdal
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