Reykjavík Grapevine - aug 2019, Page 17

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BEST OF ICELAND 2019
South
Floating glaciers and steamy hikes
Must-See Spot
Landmannalaugar
Friðland að Fjallabaki, Highlands, Road F208
Of all the deep nature of the South, the astounding Landmannalaugar is a
true must-see. “It’s a stunning place with fantastic views,” said the panel.
You could spend days hiking the trails, which wind around the geothermal
area where hot steam pours from vividly coloured mountains. There are
captivating lava fields, a bright green canyon, crater lakes, and lots more.
Only accessible in summer, buses arrive at the campsite daily; Don’t forget
your swimming gear—there’s a geothermal bathing spot. Map square: J3
Runner Up
Hveradalir
Kerlingarfjöll, Highlands, Road F347
This hidden gem is high in the west High-
lands. Take a bus to Kerlingarfjöll, check
into a cabin or pitch up on the lovely
campsite, then take a daylong hike into
the mountains along the well-marked trail.
You’ll find a jaw-dropping series of geo-
thermally active valleys. “It’s life-chang-
ingly beautiful,” said the panel.
Runner Up
Þórsmörk
Highlands. Road F261
The Þórsmörk valley is surrounded by ac-
tive volcanoes, glaciers, and the gnarled,
ashen landscape they created, it’s a deeply
immersive environment for camping and
hiking. “You can see parts of three glaciers
when you hike in the mountains,” said the
panel. Take a shuttle bus: the rivers are no-
toriously treacherous for drivers. J4
Best Bathing Spot
The Secret Lagoon
Hvammsvegur, Flúðir
“Of all the geothermal pools, this is the
one where you see the process most,” said
our panel of this remarkable bathing spot.
“There’s a mini geysir, and you can hear
the bassy gurgling fumaroles and feel the
temperature fluctuations in the water.”
While the “secret” of this popular outdoor
bathing lagoon is out in recent times, our
panel was impressed by the investment
into better facilities. “It’s clean and organ-
ised, but still not too manicured—you’re
right there in the landscape.” H2
Runners Up
Sundlaugin Laugaskarði
Reykjamörk, Hveragerði
An understated architectural classic,
Laugaskarði stands head and shoulders
above the municipal pools in South Ice-
land, boasting a reception building that’s
perfectly curved to shield the water from
the wind. “This retro beauty has a straight-
from-the-earth steambath,” said the panel.
“It’s a Wes Anderson dream of symme-
try.” F3
Seljavallalaug
Seljavellir, Route 242
Originally built as a training pool in 1923,
this curious unmanned pool juts directly
from the mountainside, making it a popular
tourist attraction. “It’s lost that secluded
vibe over recent years,” said the panel. “But
it’s still a stunning place to visit, and a great
place to go for a dip.” Note: there are no
toilet facilities. I5
Best Hike
Fimmvörðuháls
Skógar to Þórsmörk
One of the more challenging day-hikes in
Iceland, this 25km route is worth it for the
diverse riches you’ll see along the way. The
trail starts at the foot of Skógafoss, passing
countless Highland waterfalls on the way
to its 1,000m apex. You cross between the
Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers,
passing the still-steaming site of a 2010
eruption. Finally, you’ll descend into the
dreamy Þórsmörk valley, where you can
camp, bathe, and catch a homeward bus.
Take hiking poles. J4
Runners Up
Landmannalaugar
Friðland að Fjallabaki, Highlands
There are routes to suit all skill levels
threading around this stunning Highland
paradise. “The colourful mountains are just
amazing,” said the panel. Access the area
as the finale of a multi-day Landmannalau-
gar hike, take a 4x4, or go by bus; camp for
a few days to reap the full benefit. A truly
breathtaking trip. J3
Easy Option
Reykjadalur
Hveragerði
In the Reykjavík-adjacent town of Hverag-
erði you’ll find this famous route. It’s a gen-
tle hike over a stunning mountain trail with
a dreamy soak waiting for you at the end
in the geothermal river that gushes down
the Reykjadalur valley. “Go first thing, or
late in the evening when it’s quiet,” advised
the panel. F2