Reykjavík Grapevine - May 2019, Page 20

The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
20
@deigworkshop Tryggvagata 14
Everything made in
house daily
Open when we
have something
Close when we don’t
Donuts
Fresh Bagels
Sourdough Bread
Sourdough Pizza
Pastries
DINING
There’s A New
Ramen In Town
Hi Noodle prioritises authenticity and consistency
Words: John Rogers Photos: Art Bicnick
Reykjavík foodies have long lament-
ed the relative lack of Asian cuisines
in this city that are readily available
is most European hubs. Hi Noodle
is a brand new 13-seat eatery locat-
ed in a recently renovated house
on Frakkastígur that’s seeking to
change the game.
The restaurant is run by Chen,
the calm, amiable presence who’s
smiling face you’ll see behind the
high counter upon entering the
pristine white dining room. “I had
the idea for this restaurant two
years ago,” he says. “Before that I
was in the tourist business. I was
always taking people to Noodle
Station or other restaurants, and I
thought it would be nice for them to
have some more authentic noodles.”
Years in the
making
The noodles in question are fresh-
ly made at a workshop in London,
and delivered every week for use in
Hi Noodle’s four recipes. “The noo-
dles are Tonkotsu noodles, which
is a very thin wheat noodle,” says
Chen. “Then we have four recipes:
Tonkotsu, Miso Tonkotsu, Dan Dan,
and the vegan option.”
Chen spent a year perfecting the
recipes before the renovations be-
gan. “There’s no secret in ramen,”
he smiles. “There are five basic el-
ements. First is the broth, then the
noodles; then there’s the tare, which
means flavours like soy sauce. Then
there’s the topping, or chashu; and
finally the seasoning. That’s every-
thing that’s in the bowl.”
Daylong broth
However, Chen’s versions of these
classic dishes were long in prepara-
tion. “I use fresh ingredients from
here in Iceland,” he says. “Our broth
takes at least a day and a half to
make, using temperature controlled
cooking. We simmer the broth for
six to eight hours, then high-heat it
to reduce it by 50% until it’s creamy
and white, then we test the concen-
tration. The ramen in this restaurant
will always taste the same. It’s con-
sistent, and that’s important. Every
time you come here you’ll get the
same taste.”
Chen lived in China until he
was 20 years old, absorbing in-
fluences from Chinese and Ko-
rean food into his cooking. “The
Dan Dan recipe mixes Japanese
Dan Dan and Chinese Dan Dan,”
he says. “In the Chinese version
there’s no broth, but in Japanese
version there’s a lot of broth. And
in the Icelandic cold weather, I
think people need the broth. Then
the Tonkotsu is very classic—
it’s the same flavour you would
find in Japan. Each bowl has 100
grammes of noodles. The different
is only the toppings and the broth.”
Soup confidence
Many had told Chen that December
was a bad time to open a restaurant,
but the response has been good so
far. “People have been very support-
ive,” he says. “I have Icelandic friends
who are coming in often.”
There are plans to use the first
floor when summer comes, and to
expand the menu, but for now the
intimacy of Hi Noodle is one of its
charms. The dishes of steaming hot
soup are handed straight over the
counter from the smiling chef, giving
the place a cosy and casual feel. It
helps, of course, that all of the soups
are delicious, flavourful, warming
and filling. “I have confidence in my
food,” finishes Chen, before getting
back to work. “I really believe it’s one
of the best ramen in Iceland.”
“Our broth takes at least a day and a half,
using temperature controlled cooking.”
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