Reykjavík Grapevine - jan 2019, Qupperneq 44

New Ramen
In Town
New soup café Hi Noodle prioritises
authenticity and consistency
Words: John Rogers Photo: Art Bicnick
Hi Noodle
Frakkastigur 9
Reyk jav í k foodies
have long lamented
the relative lack of
Asian cuisines in this
city that are read-
ily available is most
European hubs. Hi
Noodle is a brand new 13-seat eat-
ery located in a recently renovated
house on Frakkastígur that’s seek-
ing to change the game.
The restaurant is run by Chen,
the calm, amiable presence who’s
smiling face you’ll see behind the
high counter upon entering the
pristine white dining room. “I had
the idea for this restaurant two
years ago,” he says. “Before that I
was in the tourist business. I was
always taking people to Noodle Sta-
tion or other
restaurants,
and I thought
it would be
nice for them
to have some
more authen-
tic noodles.”
Years in the making
The noodles in question are freshly
made at a workshop in London, and
delivered every week for use in Hi
Noodle’s four recipes. “The noodles
are Tonkotsu noodles, which is a
very thin wheat noodle,” says Chen.
“Then we have four recipes: Tonkot-
su, Miso Tonkotsu, Dan Dan, and
the vegan option.”
Chen spent a year perfecting the
recipes before the renovations be-
gan. “There’s no secret in ramen,”
he smiles. “There are five basic ele-
ments. First is the broth, then the
noodles; then there’s the tare, which
means flavours like soy sauce. Then
there’s the topping, or chashu; and
finally the seasoning. That’s every-
thing that’s in the bowl.”
Daylong broth
However, Chen’s versions of these
classic dishes were long in prepa-
ration. “I use fresh ingredients
from here in Iceland,” he says. “Our
broth takes at least a day and a half
to make, using temperature con-
trolled cooking. We simmer the
broth for six to eight hours, then
high-heat it to reduce it by 50% un-
til it’s creamy and white, then we
test the concentration. The ramen
in this restaurant will always taste
the same. It’s consistent, and that’s
important. Every time you come
here you’ll get the same taste.”
Chen lived in China until he
was 20 years old, absorbing in-
fluences from Chinese and Ko-
rean food into his cooking. “The
Dan Dan recipe mixes Japanese
Dan Dan and Chinese Dan Dan,”
he says. “In the Chinese version
there’s no broth, but in Japanese
version there’s a lot of broth. And
in the Icelandic cold weather, I
think people need the broth. Then
the Tonkotsu is very classic—
it’s the same flavour you would
find in Japan. Each bowl has 100
grammes of noodles. The different
is only the toppings and the broth.”
Best ramen in Iceland
Many had told Chen that December
was a bad time to open a restaurant,
but the response has been good so
far. “People have been very sup-
portive,” he says. “I have Icelandic
friends who are coming in often.”
There are plans to use the first
floor when summer comes, and to
expand the menu, but for now the
intimacy of Hi Noodle is one of its
charms. The dishes of steaming
hot soup are handed straight over
the counter from the smiling chef,
giving the place a cosy and casual
feel. It helps, of course, that all of
the soups are delicious, flavourful,
warming and filling. “I have con-
fidence in my food,” finishes Chen,
before getting back to work. “I really
believe it’s one of the best ramen in
Iceland.”
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Don't let their friendly faces fool you, they mean to conquer the market
Food
“Our broth takes
at least for a day
and a half, using
temperature con-
trolled cooking.”
FISH panS
icelandic "plokkfiskur"
Onion, garlic, potatoes,
celery, lime, white wine,
cream and butter
1,950 isk

arcTic cHar
Honey, almonds, cherry–
tomatoes, lemon and butter
2,200 isk
redfisH
Chili, celery root, sour cream,
corn, lemon and cream
2,200 isk
plaice
Tomatoes, capers, parsley,
lemon and butter
2,200 isk
salmon (lacTose–free)
Parsnip, broccoli, cashews,
coconut oil, chili and lemon
2,200 isk
our fisH pans are always served
wiTH buTTer–fried icelandic
poTaToes & fresH salad
any pans
for
luncH?
lækjargaTa 6b, 101 rvk · 546 0095 · messinn@messinn.com
What do you know about Ban Thai
Always been the best
in our local people
from the reviews
and local newspaper.
There's a reason why
we get an award
every once a year
r e s t a u r a n t
w w w . b a n t h a i . i s
tel : 5522-444, 692-0564 banthai@banthai.is
Laugavegur 130, Reykjavík
B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 8
also 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012,
2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
BEST RESTAURANTS IN ICELAND
TOP TEN
DV. 17.06.11
Ban Thai is not “fast food”
food made fresh from scratch,
it‘s not pre-made,
every item in the menu
take some time to cook,
Please prepare your time
before you come
Best goddamn restaurant 2011
Best goddamn restaurant 2011
m a n y f a m o u s p e o p l e a r e r e g u l a r s h e r e